New Red Hawk Needs trigger job How?


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Master Blaster
March 7, 2003, 01:25 PM
I have put a couple of hundred rounds through my new 7.5" redhawk, and done a few hundred dry fires. The double action is fine but the single action is still stiff.

How do you improve the single action trigger on a redhawk?

Are there any smiths who provide this service as well?

I'm in DE / SE Pa.

Thanks

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WESHOOT2
March 7, 2003, 08:12 PM
I have four Redhawks, and I'm not totally enamored with any of their SA pulls.
So I don't use it.
Except chrono testing :D

That said, DON"T trade one iota of reliability away for a lighter pull.

For compentent 'smiths look here: www.americanpistol.com or contact Hamilton Bowen.

WESHOOT2
March 7, 2003, 08:14 PM
They respond well to thorough cleaning, and lubing with BreakFree CLP and TetraGrease.

Master Blaster
March 8, 2003, 02:18 PM
So the answer is:

To improve the SA pull on a redhawk, buy a Blackhawk

:confused:

Revolver Armorer
March 8, 2003, 08:13 PM
Sometimes (just sometimes) these guns have a problems with high mid cycle peak DA trigger pull. Usually indicative of a poorly fit Hammer Dog. You may notice that when you are firing your revolver that the Hammer seems to release a bit early? Called "Hammer Jump" and Mid Cycle High Peak trigger pull could be signs of a Hammer Dog which may need re-fitting. Might need re-fitting or even a new Hammer Dog. Sometimes a few could sneak by. :)

Master Blaster
March 10, 2003, 11:09 AM
I guess there are two ways

1. requires honing of the contact surfaces of the sear/trigger and the Hammer.

2. Change or clip the mainspring.

Or Both

I was hoping to hear from someone who had tried the reduced power or clipped mainspring.

Thanks

Revolver Armorer
March 10, 2003, 12:17 PM
Master Blaster,
Sometimes merely telling someone to cut coils is not the best proposition. Reduction of mainsprnig power in name of custom gunsmithing is always a bad thing to do, especially when done blindly without the benefit of gauging. Although factory always is against changing mainsprings. Some custom gunsmiths do such. The main thing is that firing pin protrusion stays well within factory guidelines to insure ignition. A lot of drag can be taken out of a Redhawk by folks that are properly trained in the guns design and function. This is not work for someone who is not trained in proper gauging, diamensional parts inspection, part fitting and operational theory. One of the most problematic issues is those that cannot even understand transfer bar timing and passive safety devices. When those folks tamper with firearms, there is always something lost and very little gained. Most knowlegable firearms tuners know about tolerances, parts relationships and have appropriate technical information on hand. They also know to watch out for lifting, camming and engagement surfaces when work is being performed. :)

Master Blaster
March 11, 2003, 11:17 AM
Happiness is the fitting bench at DWM Luger assembly. Berlin 1943!

I hope you are not saying that you are nostalgic for the good old days of the Nazis, are you?????

Revolver Armorer
March 11, 2003, 06:52 PM
So your only beliefs are that a firearm is for killing? If you answered yes, then you are in fact missing the fundamental point. :confused:

WESHOOT2
March 11, 2003, 10:51 PM
SA for?

Can try spring pack, whaddathey cost, $12 or so.
Be interested in results if you go that way.
Like I said, have four, but never really spent much time thinking about their pulls.
Overtravel, that one you can't learn past............

larryw
March 12, 2003, 01:14 AM
I picked up one of the spring packs from Brownells for my Redhawk. Started with the lightest spring, 12#. Improvement in trigger was dramatic. No failures to fire using (hard) WLP and (harder) CCI 350 primers. YMMV.

But I'm still not 100% happy with the trigger and will be sending it off to a proper smith as soon as I can see a way to be without that gun for 4-6 weeks.

Revolver Armorer
March 12, 2003, 07:20 AM
Just remember to gauge the firing pin protrusion. Good readings are around .040. Gauges are cheap (think I saw one for $19.00). Too bad I was not properly licensed with an F.F.L. I could do miracles on a Ruger. :)

Master Blaster
March 12, 2003, 08:50 AM
New Problem with Redhawk

Last week I put 75 rounds down range. I fired two cylinders full double action, and the rest single action. I had one light firing pin hit lightly dented primer did not go off, this was in double action. I put it down to not fully seating the primer.

Yesterday I took the redhawk out to the range again and I fired two cylinders double action on the second cylinder full I had two light hits. No light hits single action, just double action.

I have not changed or clipped the stock spring, so a lighter spring is out of the question with this gun.

I think I will be sending my new $500 gun back to ruger very shortly. :fire:

WESHOOT2
March 12, 2003, 03:01 PM
Handloads?

Federal primers?

Master Blaster
March 12, 2003, 04:12 PM
Handloads, 7gr unique 240LSWC OAL per speer 13. Winchester Large pistol primers (magnum or reg loads)

The light hit is about half the depth of a normal one. It only happens when firing slow double action.

I'm begining to think I should have bought the super blackhawk instead.

The gun is very accurate though, and nicely finished in every way.

larryw
March 12, 2003, 06:07 PM
While we're sorta on the subject, once I've got my Redhawk stripped to the frame, how do I remove the firing pin? I'd like to give the pin and chamber a good scrubbing.

thanks,
LW

Master Blaster
March 13, 2003, 08:34 AM
It appears to me that the firing pin is retained by a cross pin the the rear of the frame near the top where the hammer hits the frame. The pin runs from side to side throught the frame and is ground flush with the contour of the sides of the frame, so it appears that this is not a user serviceable part, since replacing it would require that an oversized pin be fitted to the frame and then ground and polished to match the frame.

You could look at the manual and see if the firing pin and return spring and cross pin say factory replacment only or gunsmith fitting required. I believe that they do. Last night I hosed mine out with gunscrubber and put a drop of clp in it to see if this fixes the light hit double action problem.


.:)
Revolverarmourer How about happiness is the fitting bench at S&W in 1965? I have a model 27-2 made in 1967 that is just the most beautiful work of craftsmanship, fitting, and finish of any gun that I have ever seen, and the lockwork on it is perfect.:)

Revolver Armorer
March 13, 2003, 04:46 PM
Master Blaster,
There is no mystery how S&W revolvers are made, at least for me. However, the hardcore factory technical data for guns like the old Iver Johnsons, Harrington & Richardson top break "Owl Head" revolvers has either been destroyed, archived or rotting in some warehouse, or perhaps even died with the gun builders themselves. You will not find any indepth manufacturing data on guns like the Merwin & Hulbert revolvers of the west or WW2 pocket pistols like the Polish CZ or the German automatic rifle Stg 44. It is so easy to see how factory data dies and meathods lost. There are a lot of guns like Ithaca 37 and High Standard .22s that needs revival from a youthful, albeit technically capable crop of younger craftsman. The gun builders of yesterday don't have Vacuum Furnaces, Light Interference Probes and premium CVM Certified Steels of today. The microstruction of todays gun steels approaches perfection. It's only the lazy smaller parts that are lacking. The smaller parts lack carefull handfitting of small parts (such as trigger bar bearing surfaces) and extractor tuning. Modern guns need EDM Hammers and Sears. If hands of yesterday met guns of today, firearms would reached a milestone of perfection never known. I am sure that even current manufacturing can make Carbonal Bluing even more beautiful then ever before. Gunbuilders even have "Liquid Honing" for perfect rounds and sqare corners. Even the screws can be made perfect for thread friction and fit when qualified. CNC Machinery is now making tolerances of 1 micron (.0254) possible. When we speak Microinches, we are talking guns that are clones when dimensions are so close. The new guns only need to be touched by warm hands and smaller parts of more expensive materials. :)

rmgunsmith
November 25, 2007, 06:06 PM
I have performed several trigger jobs on Redhawks with good results. Light stone all moving part surfaces with an extra fine stone. Don't change any angles, just polish! Stone the inside of the frame where any moving parts touch. Clean thoroughly.

The action will improve after numerous pulls of the trigger which causes the parts to wear in. Ruger says that you can dry fire the Redhawk without damage.

The Redhawks come from the factory with a 17# main spring. The Wolff spring kits comes with 12, 13 & 14 pound springs. I have had good success with the 14# spring as long as the metal polishing is good.

I have had no failure to fire with this combination.

rcmodel
November 25, 2007, 06:13 PM
Because of the transfer bar safety you can dry fire the Redhawk without damage.What has that got to do with anything?

The hammer still hits the transfer bar, and the transfer bar still hits the firing pin when you pull the trigger.

It's no different then dry firing a gun without a transfer bar.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j219/rcmodel/KTOG/1224.gif
rcmodel

rcmodel
November 25, 2007, 06:19 PM
Dup post

rmgunsmith
November 25, 2007, 06:26 PM
Ask that question to Ruger who says this in their Redhawk owners manual>

“Dry Firing” is practicing the trigger pull of the empty revolver for practice
and familiarity. The Redhawk revolver can be dry-fired without damage to
the firing pin or internal components.
Be sure that the revolver is unloaded before handling. Be sure you always
point the revolver in a safe direction, even when dry-firing for practice. Do
not dry-fire the revolver with the plastic ‘safety disc’ on the cylinder.

rcmodel
November 25, 2007, 07:59 PM
I'm sure it is fine to dry fire it.
My point was, it's not because it has a transfer bar.
It's because it's a Ruger.

As far as I know, you can dry-fire any Ruger ever made, and probably not hurt a thing.

They build them like tanks.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j219/rcmodel/KTOG/1224.gif
rcmodel

rmgunsmith
November 25, 2007, 08:06 PM
You are correct, as it is not due to the transfer bar safety. I have edited my previous message. Thanks for bringing it to my attention. Ruger metal is more beefy than most revolvers made today.

For a good review of the new 4" Redhawk go to [url]http://www.gunblast.com/Ruger-Redhawk4.htm

GP100man
November 26, 2007, 06:28 PM
i took my red hawk down & deburred everything & polished everything .
then checked FP protrusion it was .042, bowen says .050 min.
first i replaced the transfer bar, then rechecked .048
i sguared the hammer up in a milling machine & removed .010 off the face,i did this in steps as not to hang on the transfer bar with trigger all the way back . i got my FP to .058 .
no more miss fires with any type primer no matter how slow i pull the trigger in da mode.
the true test for a red hawk is da very slow & deliberate ,if it fires then itll be a 100% shooter& i use the factory spring always on a redhawk!!!
my sa pull is 3#9oz. but it breaks like glass now , im happy with my redhawk!!!!

GP100man

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