Keeping it nice and slippery


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Nathaniel Firethorn
February 3, 2003, 04:58 PM
Hi, all,

What's your favorite lubricant for stainless steel, as in Ruger MKII slabside? :evil:

I'd like to find something that works better than Rem Oil, which is gumming up and jamming.

Thanx,
- pdmoderator

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Spackler
February 3, 2003, 06:25 PM
I use the tried-and-true Break-Free.

Kruzr
February 3, 2003, 07:27 PM
I use FP10 on my slabside. A drop on the rear portion of the bolt, one small drop on trigger pivot, one real small drop between the bolt release and the frame (it gets gritty in there) and I rub a small drop of oil on the exposed part of the bolt in the port.

I rarely clean the barrel since it shoots better with a dirty bore.

HSMITH
February 3, 2003, 08:31 PM
Mobil 1 0w-30 motor oil. $4 a quart and works like a charm. Rem oil really sucks, I have not found a good use for it yet. CLP is good, but will gum up if applied heavily or not cleaned off before the next application.

Sven
February 3, 2003, 09:29 PM
I use a new product being introduced at SHOT this year.

It comes in two flavours: yellow and orange.

Wish I could tell you more, but I'd probably get in trouble.

762x51
February 4, 2003, 03:30 PM
I also use FP10 on my Slabside. Slick as can be. VERY good product.

Kahr carrier
February 5, 2003, 08:36 AM
I use RIG on stainless guns.:)

romulus
February 5, 2003, 01:17 PM
I thought RIG was formulated to be a not lubricating grease, but a corrosion prevention grease a la cosmoline...I wouldn't lube my guns with it

yzguy
February 5, 2003, 02:08 PM
I use FP10 on my SS MKII

Desert Dog
February 5, 2003, 03:58 PM
...

whitebear
February 5, 2003, 06:38 PM
Uh, Sven - yellow is a flavour?

romulus
February 5, 2003, 07:24 PM
What are the AW and EP properties of transmission fluid?

Seems to me that if you are going to shun gun-specific lubes a motor oil like Mobil 1 would be better than ATF...

Desert Dog
February 6, 2003, 03:22 PM
What are the AW and EP properties of transmission fluid?

I wouldn't know, but it is a high pressure hydraulic fluid as well as an extreme lubricant due to its application. How many automatic transmissions, that haven't been abused, have you ever seen that was rusted on the inside? ZERO. I have worked with auto transmissions for 20 years, and contrary to all the new ads for "synthetic" ATF, ATF has been a synthetic since the '50's. Prior to that, the lubricant in ATF was sperm (whale) oil. Really SLICK stuff...

I have been using Ed's Red for several years now and I do not need any extra lubrication on most of my firearms. Simply wipe off the excess Ed's Red after cleaning and you are good to go... I have NEVER had "lack of lubrication" stoppage on any of my firearms, and wear is minimal on any of them since using this stuff. Fouling seems to not stick as well to a surface treated with Ed's Red either.

But, this is my opinion...

Mike

Ledbetter
February 6, 2003, 05:47 PM
If you clean it regularly, you can lube the bolt exterior with grease by wiping on the thinnest coat imaginable before reassembly. All other parts I use FP-10 or Sentry Tuf-Glide dry lube.

romulus
February 6, 2003, 07:40 PM
I appreciate the info, Mike...

R.H. Lee
June 4, 2005, 11:08 PM
I use no lube at all on my MK stainless. Reason is .22lr is very dirty, and I've found any lube just combines with the carbon and makes a sticky mess. I clean the breech and bolt faces and chamber with a q-tip dipped in Hoppe's. Once a year or so, I takedown the entire piece and clean it thoroughly.

Sir Aardvark
June 5, 2005, 04:37 AM
If you check out what they say on RimfireCentral the recommended lube for their 10/.22's is Remington Dri-lube.

.22's are really dirty so the Dri-lube tends to not gum up with crud so much as compared with a "wet" oil.

I personally have yet to try this, but it sounds like it's worth a try, at least on the 10/.22; as for the Mark II, I never have had mine gum up so bad that it became a problem - pretty much what I use on all of my firearms is Breakfree.

c_yeager
June 5, 2005, 05:08 AM
With my Buckmark i find that a tiny bit of CLP does the job fine. Of course i only clean the thing about once every thousand rounds anyways.

JohnBT
June 5, 2005, 10:22 AM
I like...

RIG® +P™ LUBRICANT
Formulated specifically for stainless steel
Heat stabilized to prevent breakdown under high pressure or high heat
Perfect for semi-auto slides and shotgun hinge pins

texagun
June 6, 2005, 08:54 AM
Breakfree CLP....been using it since it came out a couple of decades ago and never had it gum up. It has been well proven by the military, and always comes out on top in lubrication/preservative tests. For those who think it gums up....SHAKE IT BEFORE USE, as per the directions. :p

kimbernut
June 14, 2005, 11:05 AM
I seem to recall a Break-free CLP a few years back that was supposed to have been developed specifically for stainless. I never purchased or tried any of it because the original always seemed to work very well.Anyone try this and is it better or even still available?

JoeHatley
June 14, 2005, 12:22 PM
I use RIG on the slides of all my semi-autos.

Works Great!!!

Joe

Walt Sherrill
June 14, 2005, 02:14 PM
CLP is good, but will gum up if applied heavily or not cleaned off before the next application.I've been using CLP, liberally, for years and have never seen any indication that it can or will gum up...

mpthole
June 14, 2005, 03:53 PM
Anyone ever try Militec-1 (http://www.militec1.com/grease11.html)? An army buddy gave me a small bottle to try, but I haven't gotten around to it. I use LSA currently.

KriegHund
June 14, 2005, 06:16 PM
What about hoppes oil? It doesnt gum up or anything, but it doesnt dissapate. Also makes wood look real nice.

At least it what i used. Really helped my Pump action .22 start working smoothly again.

I dunno, i used it since it came woth my cleaning kit. It said on the bottle to be used for lubrication...er gun lubrication.

:o

Anywho, it seems to work well. Rub a little into your wood and ittl make it look really good.

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