snubby da trigger pull horrible


October 6, 2004, 03:30 PM
I have a S&W model 60. The DA trigger pull on this thing is waaayy heavier than the DA trigger pull on my 686. Is this normal and can anything be done to make it better? other than just backing off the mainspring tension (which i'm guessing will result in light hits).


If you enjoyed reading about "snubby da trigger pull horrible" here in archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join today for the full version!
Standing Wolf
October 6, 2004, 06:06 PM
Relieving a little of the main spring tension may give you a slightly better double action pull; it may very well, however, give you light hammer strikes.

Any time you do anything to a revolver main spring or the rebound slide spring, you need to put a few hundred rounds through the gun without failures before carrying it.

A Smith & Wesson J frame revolver's single and double action pulls can often be improved substantially with the help of a competent gunsmith.

R.H. Lee
October 6, 2004, 06:09 PM
Take off the sideplate and make sure the innards are clean and dry. Get some snapcaps and dryfire the living daylights out of it. Look into some Wolf springkits, too.

October 6, 2004, 06:22 PM
I have an old colt cobra with the same problem. what I found to help is to use the indexing between shots. By this I mean, when you slowly pull the DA trigger, the cylinder will lock up and there will be a pause before the hammer falls. If you practice, you can pull the trigger to this point repeatedly. What this does, is allows you to pull through the trigger slop quickly, finalize your aim, then finish the shot.

My smith and wesson 625 is designed with a pronounced index to help with rapid DA shooting and aiming.

once you get used to indexing, the DA revolver becomes a fast and accurate weapon.

Also remember, in a self defence situation, you will be under the affects of adrenaline, and that heavy trigger pull won't be a problem.

October 6, 2004, 11:06 PM
Send it to Clark Custom Guns ( for their "Service Action Job". You won't believe a snubby trigger could be that good! Highly recommended.

October 7, 2004, 02:41 AM
BTW your m-60 doesn't have a tension screw that you can "back off" for a lighter DA pull. the hammer is power by a coil spring...that is why the J-frame feels so different from smith's larger frames

opening it up, cleaning it out and lubing it can make a big diffrence in the feel of the pull. whatever you do, don't start snipping on the coil does relieve the tension but it leaves the spring too short. a better way to go , if you want less tension, is to get a set of reduced power springs from wolffe

October 7, 2004, 07:59 PM
A couple of things may be going on here:

1. The smaller frame of the J frame is going to compound the "feel" of the trigger compared to the L frame. Much smaller & lighter package in the hand - requiring about an equal hammer drop force to set off the primer.

2. The "perceived" action will likely remain heavier in the J frame over the L frame. But as it is cycled (live or dry fire) it will smooth out. You can pay a gunsmith to do this for you - or you can just cycle it a thousand or so times.

Heavy is not necessarily a bad thing with a pistol designed for personal defence. But it does need to be smooth and consistent. And most important - set off the primer every single time. Which is why I would hesitate to recommend lighter springs.

October 7, 2004, 08:46 PM
This is not to be construed as a recommendation; I am simply relating my experience.

I have a S&W 340PD which suffered from a trigger pull that was very heavy. I took it upon myself to remove coils, 1-by-1, from the mainspring.
Using a cutoff wheel on my Dremel made the job very easy. I ended up by removing 4 complete coils. The trigger pull is still not exactly what I would call "light", but it is very tolerable, now.

Please be advised that I was perfectly aware of the consequences of going too far and was prepared to install a new spring (which wasn't necessary). I have fired several different brands of ammunition as well as my personal reloads. In the past 300 rounds, or so, there have been absolutely no light strikes.

I often see individuals warning against such procedures. I have always had good results. Follow your best judgement, I do.

October 7, 2004, 08:46 PM

October 7, 2004, 10:17 PM
I used one of jerry miculek's videos on smith trigger jobs with good results.
just did some light stoning on parts with tooling marks and wear spots.
did some light polishing, then a good buffing with my dremel, lubed w/ tw25b and now it is very very smooth. feels lighter but i did not mess with any coils or springs. the smoothness helps loads.
the rebound slide was the main culprit, and as it is now smoothed and lubed i think that helped a good bit.

October 8, 2004, 02:22 PM
There are a lot of things that can be done to improve the trigger pull on a S&W J-frame.

There are a few things that can be done to improve the trigger pull on a S&W J-frame and yet remain safe and reliable.

If you don't feel confident doing the work yourself (it's not hard at all, there's just no room for errors) then fine a good gunsmith and have them do it. You'll be very glad you did.

You'll be amazed just how sweet shooting a Model 60 can be.

October 8, 2004, 03:59 PM
If you don't mind taking the side plate off and taking it apart then you can smooth it out a lot with just a few simple things.

I took my model 940 apart, cleaned it real well and then moly lubed all of the parts. I also moly lubed the inside of the handle where a couple of the parts slide and where the hammer rides and pivots.

Then I put a slightly lighter spring on the trigger "pull" side.

The result is a very smooth trigger that is not exactly light but pulls very easily.

I just took apart a Model 27 last night and did the same thing, however, I did not have a lighter trigger "pull" spring. Still smoothed it out noticeably.

It is amazing what a little moly lube and very light oil does for any pistol. No stoning, no modifying anything, just smoothing and lubing what is already there.

Do wear safety glasses as the trigger "pull" spring will come out with some energy and can easily nail you.

It is not hard to do and it is easy to get it back together. If that does not make you happy then take it to a smith.

October 9, 2004, 05:13 AM
trigger "pull" spring Are you referring to what S&W calls the "trigger rebound slide spring"?
It's commonly called the rebound spring.

That's the little coil spring that goes inside the rebound slide that resets the trigger?

October 9, 2004, 11:05 AM
Mr Bluesbear,

I am sure you are giving the right name to the part. I put a slightly lighter version of that spring in my 940. The compromise was between a lighter feeling pull and a fast enough rebound. I only came down a pound or two from the original spring weight.

I am sure it would be easy to get the rebound too light and then not have a reliable pistol!

It was also a bit of a surprise to get my 27 apart and discover its quite different internally from the little snub nosed revolvers! There is a bar that rotates the cylinder that is held in a light sprung forward position by a spring within the trigger. Getting that reset was an interesting exercise in contortion and the use of a third hand!

October 12, 2004, 02:16 PM
Yes the rebound spring can indeed make a huge difference in overall trigger pull. I used to have people (usually police officers) bring me S&W revolvers all the time that wouldn't strike a primer hard enough to reliably fire.
To try and lighten the pull the first thing they'd do would be loosen the strain screw on the mainspring. If the rebound spring is too heavy then you'll never be able to loosen the strain screw enough to feel comfortable.

A lighter rebound spring also makes reassembly much easier. I currently have 6 N-frames that were produced between 1974 and 1986. All except one have had the reboubd soring reduced. Guess which doesn't? That's right, my model 28 made in 1974. As for hte other five, the springs got heavier as the years went by. I am using the spring from the newest one made in 1986 as an overload spring on my Jeep.

I now have all of mine set so that if you were blindfolded you wouldn't be able to tell the difference in trigger pull on any of them.

Lowering the spring strength too much can prevent the trigger from resetting! Not a good condition to have. It can also slow down the trigger and make it sluggish.

If you're going to do it yourself, unless you have a lot of experience in revolver tuning, I highly reccommend getting the Wolff reduced spring kit. All of the ones I have seen certainly helped the action but were still well within safe limits.

As for the hand spring mounted in the trigger, :cuss: they used to give me fits too.
A little trick* I picked up is to insert the hand just far enough to where the main stem is holding the hand but the shorter torsion pin is flush with the inside edge of the trigger opening.
I then use the short "thumb" on the top of the hammer block as a tool to move and hold the spring in position until I get the hand inserted completely. It takes a little practice and you'll drop it a few times, but once you get the hang of it, it's almost easy.

I have never worked on one of the new 940 models but my old, original 1969 Model 40 had the same setup with the handspring mounted in the trigger.

Happy Shooting

*Shhhhh... (The real secret is to just leave the hand on the trigger unless you, really, really, have to remove it. ESPECIALLY if someone is watching you.) :cool:

October 12, 2004, 10:47 PM
yes, that little trigger spring was a beast to put in the first time...took me about an hour...couldn't find any pics to show me how it went...finally got it, but man, it was bad!


If you enjoyed reading about "snubby da trigger pull horrible" here in archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join today for the full version!