.30.30 cleaning


October 11, 2004, 07:01 AM
I will be doing some research on my own, as soon as I get the opportunity, but thought that someone out there would be able to give me some tips.

I just purchased a Marlin 30/30 lever action, used, for $200. I checked out the barrel, worked the bolt, etc and thought that it was worth the price.... especially since it was a birthday gift and didn't cost me a penny:D

I chose this rifle because I was told it's a good hunting gun (if I ever decide to go hunting), but primarily because I always wanted a lever action and it won't beat me up shooting at paper or steel.

Being a former Marine, my first instinct was to take it apart and clean it. Fortunately a friend with more knowledge of lever actions said that I might want to learn more about the mechanism before I start taking things apart. Good advice I thought, which brings me here with the following questions......How easy/difficult is it to disassemble and clean a lever action, and does anyone have any tips they'd like to share?

If you've disassembled a 1911, Glock or any other automatic and chased springs and small parts you may relate. I'm new with this firearm so am going at it with more forethought....maybe you CAN learn as you get older!!

I look forward to your comments and suggestions. Off to do a search now, this should be interesting.

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October 11, 2004, 07:25 AM
For me I simply remove the screw holding the lever and it will slip out the bottom. The bolt can then be removed. There is an ejector V spring (18) behind the bolt that will come out but it can be placed back in it's hole before sliding the bolt back in.

After removal of the bolt you can clean it from the breech end. Jjst reverse the assembly. This should be all you need to clean it. Mine is a 336.


October 11, 2004, 08:44 AM
The Marlins are much easier to disassemble than the Winchesters.

Make sure not to lose the ejector, other than that it is a piece of cake.

I love my 336 and 1894C. Great, great guns.

October 11, 2004, 09:55 AM
Good to hear, I will probably look into it tonight. Anything tricky about the ejector? The screw holding the lever should be easy to identify.

I wasn't going to fire it until I had thoroughly cleaned and inspected it, and y'all have made me more comfortable with the process.

Looks like I'll be having even MORE fun at the range this weekend!!:D

October 11, 2004, 01:21 PM
One other thing. Make sure the screwdriver fits correctly so you don't bugger them up. This goes for all guns. A good hollow ground screwdriver set was a Christmas present a few years back and is well worth the investment.


Jim K
October 11, 2004, 10:02 PM
No matter what your instinct says, or what some "old gunny" told you about cleaning rifles, that rifle is not a military rifle and is not made to be detail stripped for cleaning by the user. Stick with removing the bolt for cleaning from the rear and deal with any crud in the receiver with a can of spray cleaner. In fact, many owners of lever rifles clean them from the muzzle, and that is perfectly OK for normal cleaning of a civilian rifle. Again, this is not a military rifle which is going to be fired hundreds of rounds a day in training and cleaned to pass inspection. It is a civilian rifle that is going to be fired a few times a year and cleaned to a reasonable (not "old gunny") standard.


October 12, 2004, 03:13 AM
Mark your calendars - I actually cleaned a gun , including the bore. :p

< thud , sound of THR members falling out of chairs>

Buddy of ours found an old Model 94 in 30-30 and asked us to check it out...I'm still playing....err...testing and checking it out.

I walked out on my back deck and squirted the bore with G- 96 with the extension tube dealie. Using long Q- tips, I applied G- 96 to the action. I ran a Otis Pull through a few times, squirted more G96 and inverted - let soak over night. Next morning I used CRC Brakleen ( red can) and flushed the action .

I ran out of G- 96 , so I used the bottle of BF CLP the fellow left with me to lube action , I used RIG to treat the bore, let sit then dry patched. Done.

FWIW this one likes the 170 grainers. I really like the Pachmayer True Lock swivels we installed, GI leather sling and the Pachmayer leather recoil pad with the velcro attachment. LOP is "just right" . Gonna test some more , not gonna clean . Fellow will use for deer hunting, so I figure all this gun needs is ammo, a wipe down of exterior, and to be shot until after the first of the year.

Oh - I did finally wind some rawhide around the lever to make it easier on the knuckles. Yeah - I know tubing works, but black might be considered " tactical " or something ... I can't do that. :D

October 12, 2004, 06:49 AM
Thanks all, some good advice. Especially Jim, who put it most succinctly...this is not USMC issue and I do not intend to through several hundred rounds through it. Though I'd like to :D

I am going home tonight and dropping the lever on my 336 and cleaning it as suggested. Some spray, some dwell time, then a final clean/lube and let's hope it doesn't rain on Saturday.

BTW, I always go for a light lube,but any special areas of interest on a lever action that requires attention? Still looking for info on the web, but am too cheap to send someone $5 for a manual when I am getting more fun/knowledge this way.

Thanks again and I'll let you know how I do.

October 12, 2004, 08:22 AM
If you want one, use the attached thread for getting a manual from Marlin.


October 12, 2004, 04:37 PM
I clean the chambers and extraction with a pipe cleaner or long wooden Q tip .

The Pipe cleaner is a good way to apply lube down in the action part....just a smidge here and a tad there.

Wipe exterior after being handled . Thats it.

October 13, 2004, 06:58 AM
Ordering the manual tonight, thanks Murphster...... though I could probably get it quicker if I just drove to New Haven.

I still want to remove the bolt so I can clean it from the rear. With that in mind I was looking at the lever/bolt assembly last night, and was thinking of the best way to go about it.

Remove the lever with the bolt forward or back? Is there anything really tricky about the ejector removal/replacement?

I can wait for the manual if I have to, but any info that lets me clean the rifle (so I can use it this weekend :D )would be appreciated.

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