I own several Ruger firearms and find them to be fine pieces. That includes two single actions: an old model Ruger .357 and a new model Ruger Bisley in .45 Colt.
Recently, I purchased (NEW!) another single action which does not work like the other two. It is a Ruger Stainless Bisley Hunter model. It shoots quite well (considering old eyes, bifocals and iron sights. It will be scoped soon.)
However, if you SLOOOOWLY cock the hammer, when the gun gets to the point where the trigger engages the sear (and the gun is cocked), the cylinder is not indexed and locked properly. EVERY chamber acts EXACTLY the same way. BUT if you cock the hammer ALL THE WAY BACK till it won't go any further and then let it back down to the cocked position, every chamber will be indexed and locked.
Is that normal? (As I said, it is NOT the way the other 2 I have work.) Is that ok? Does it need attention?
Thanks SA shooters.
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October 12, 2004, 05:11 PM
I would say that it needs some attention. Some might say otherwise. Ruger single actions (old and new models) have a 2-step pawl (sometimes called a "hand"). The lower tooth rotates the cylinder the last part of the way. If it is short, the revolver will act exactly as you describe. Replacing the part with a new one and correctly fitting it should solve the problem. Ideally, the cylinder should be latched at the same time the trigger engages the hammer at full-cock.
On the other hand some fast-draw shooters time the gun so it works like what you have now. This is to insure the cylinder notches aren't battered when the hammer is cocked quickly.
Ruger has an excellent customer service department. I'm sure they will fix it to whatever you want. Contact them for shipping instructions.
October 15, 2004, 12:02 AM
Fuff knows stuff.
October 15, 2004, 03:32 AM
Yup. He sure does.
One thing though: Power Custom sells a $35 "free spin pawl" with very good and detailed instructions for a homebrew install. Once in, it lets the cylinder spin both ways once the loading gate is open, on any "New Model Action" Ruger such as your Bisley.
I *think* it would also fix the issue you're dealing with here. So if you've got any inclination to do that to speed up loading, you can save the nuisance of shipping back to Ruger.
Talk to them over the phone and make sure this would fix it before deciding!
Oh, and factor in another cost: top-quality hollow-ground screwdriver bits if you don't have them already, otherwise you'll booger the screws.
(This isn't meant to disagree with Old Fuff, only to offer an alternative that might be cost-competitive with shipping depending on how Ruger wants to treat that...but Ruger WILL also take care of it.)
October 15, 2004, 08:46 AM
Thanks for the info guys. I have talked to Ruger and will decide what to do next. I'll let you know how it comes out. Plus, a range report is due too!
October 15, 2004, 09:23 AM
Good show Jim!
I'd forgotten about Power's pawl that allows the cylinder to go both ways, and it is handy sometimes. I'm not sure where it is, but Jim's posted several threads on custom modifing Ruger New Model single actions that offer a number of hints for easy things you can do to improve what came out of the factory. Anyone with a new Ruger should read them, they contain some great stuff.
Even the Old Fuff can learn something sometimes ... :D