[vega]

My 1851 CVA arrived today, it's actually made by Pieta for CVA. This is the first time I'll be shooting this and I want to clean it first. My first question is:
1) How do I remove the cylinder? The manual says tap the wedge from right to left. I assume the barrel is pointing down range and the right side is the one with no screw on top. I already tapped it but it won't budge. I don't want to tap harder than I should. Is there an easier way of doing it?

2) Does the screw have somthing to do with the wedge?

3) One of the cylinder hole have rust on it. I don't think its that bad but what would you recommend to clean it with?

4) Do I really need capper and pick brass?

edited to add another stupid question- Where do I buy corn meal?

TIA,
vega

[mcneill]

1. You are correct - the right side is the side w/o the screw (the side where the wedge is almost flush). You can get a tool to help with loosening the wedge. It looks like a small blunt cold chisel and is just the right size to fit the wedge. (I think it's called a "wedge tool").

2. The screw sets the tension of the wedge and determines spacing between cylinder and barrel. It has nothing to do with loosening/removing the wedge.

3. No suggestions on this one.

4. Capper is not absolutely necessary, but an in-line capper sure makes capping the nipples a lot more convenient. (Kinda depends on how big/dexterious your fingers are.)

5. Corn meal - buy it at the grocery store. Should be on the aisle with the flower/sugar, etc.

Good luck, and welcome aboard.

Jim

[vega]

That's what you call quick service. Just went out to pick up my kid and the answers are already here.

Thanks Jim.

vega

[4v50 Gary]

A nipple pick can be made from a brass rod (hobby shop) that is drilled into a dowel rod (if you're not a purist). As for filler, you can also use farina or cream of wheat. Use whatever is cheaper (or turned rancid and can't be eaten).

Cappers really aren't needed but they're nice to have. If I don't bring a capper, I apply them with the fingers.

[vega]

It's harder than I thought, I still can't remove the wedge.

vega

[Stickjockey]

Vega-

a wedge tool is a really good thing for dealing with the barrel wedge. You can also use a brass drift in a pinch, but be careful of peening the wedge out of shape. Tap lightly.

[vega]

I finally removed the wedge last night, I was giving it a sissy tap that's why it won't budge. I haven't shoot it yet and already I marred the finish.:mad:

I need to remove the nipples, the fire holes are dirty. My nipple wrench and other items will be coming in today.

I think I should start with 20 gr FFF as advised by the manual and everyone here. Then I'll work my way up. Darn, I didn't sleep well last night playing cowboy.

Thanks for all the response.

vega

[Stickjockey]

...already I marred the finish.

That's not marring the finish. It's "adding character".;)

[vega]

Thanks for making me feel better.

I haven't shoot it yet and I already want another one. Eyeing that 1958 Remmy.

vega

[Gatofeo]

Vega:
Do a search of my name, Gatofeo, to find the Feb. 18, 2004 entry, "How to best use a cap and ball revolver." You'll find a lot of good info in there, for beginners.
You'll also find my responses to others who have cap and ball revolvers.
Many of the folks in here are very knowledgeable as well. Search just this section for all kinds of information about cap and ball revolvers.
I'd suggest you print out what you find. It's best to copy and paste it to a word processing program (Word or others), then print from that. This way, you can create spaces, enbold or italicize certain lines, etc.
You don't say what caliber your Navy is.
If it's a .36 caliber, then 20 grains is about right. If it's brass-framed, I wouldn't add more than this.
Steel framed 1851 Navies can take 24 to 27 grains of FFFG black powder or its volume equivalent, depending on the manufacturer.
My Colt 2nd generation 1851 Navy will take up to 24 grs. if I use a greased felt wad between ball and powder, or 27 grains without a wad. The wad takes up a bit of space but it's worth it because it keeps the bore comparatively free of fouling.
Anyway, check out my Feb. 18 post for the basics, as well as other posts. Others have much to offer too.
Glad to see you've joined the list of cap and ball revolver shooters. It's a fun, fascinating and educational hobby.

[mec]

I second that and was inclined to suggest seaching Gatofeo
for a lot of very fine an detailed information on the subject.

[Shanghai McCoy]

The wedge also has a small spring that helps hold it in.FYI,those little springs will break if you are not careful tapping out the wedge.
Oh,you can also buy replacements from Dixie Gun Works.

[vega]

Gatofeo - I already did that prior to receiving my pistol. Great posts, very helpfull indeed. I got a 44 brass frame. I'll start with 20 gr FFFG and work my way up.

I haven't shoot this up yet and I'm already thinking of getting a 1951 steel hardened frame in 36 cal or a '58 steel frame.

vega

[Jim K]

The wedge screw has nothing to do with barrel adjustment; it keeps the wedge from falling out when it is loosened. If the wedge has a spring, its hook stops on the screw and the spring has to be pushed down to remove the wedge. If the wedge has no spring, the screw stops the wedge itself. On Colts, the Models 1851 and 1860 had wedge springs; the Model 1849 did not. Some repros have springs, others don't.

For removing a wedge, I prefer a piece of wood. I have a special block made from oak, but it usually seems to be AWOL when I need it, so I usually just use a hammer handle. A plastic hammer is OK also. Brass or aluminum can mar the finish on a gun; they are softer than steel or iron as far as scratching goes, but they can still batter the harder metal.

Jim

[vega]

but they can still batter the harder metal.
Yup, that's what happened to me. I was too anxious to disassemble it and I don't have the proper tool so I used my brass hammer to remove it. :cuss:

I'm glad its only $87...

vega

[Crownvicman]

Take a two piece wooden clothes pin and take it apart. Use one piece of the clothes pin and a small tack hammer to tap the wedge out. I have been doing this with my pietta 1851 for ten years without a problem. Be sure to tap softly. I sit the gun on my lap to do this operation.

[1858remington]

I own numerous BP pistols, and the colt replica's are my least favorite.

They are hard to clean, due to that blasted wedge.

They tend to shoot high, my walker shot 12 inches high at 50ft.

They look beautiful, feel great in the hand, and point well.

BUT...... the 1858 remington is so much better, especially for beginners.

The remington has no wedge, has a stronger frame, is easy to cap with your bare fingers, and can easily be converted to fire metallic cartridges.

The remington also tends to shoot to point of aim.

When you get frustrated with the colt, try the remington, I think you'll enjoy the difference.

As for loading your firearm,
I have found that 25grains goex or elephant to be very accurate, when RWS caps are used, and when TC bore butter is used to fill the chamber after seating the ball.

Bore butter makes cleanup easy, prevents fouling, and lubricates between shots.

I've tried many other methods, and the gun fouled to the point that function was a problem as well as accuracy.

With bore butter in my stainless 1858 rem, I was able to fire 50 shots with little fouling issues and no harm to accuracy.

If you hate using a powder flask, the pyrodex pellets for pistols are a dream come true. Some colt replica's however don't have enough cylinder length and the ball can't seat deep enough to avoid hitting the forcing cone.

I wish you luck on your BP handgun. I caught the bug years ago, and I like them more than my modern stuff. Nothing beats the smell of the powder, the thunder, and the flame. It gets in your blood. :D