Any revolvers not 100% reliable?


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svetlio
October 28, 2004, 06:25 PM
From all the wheelguns that you have, is there anyone that has not been always 100% reliable (I mean gun-related problems, not ammo-related problems). If yes, what exactly happened?

Thanks,
Svetlio.

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Maxinquaye
October 28, 2004, 06:34 PM
Springs could go bad, resulting in light strikes. Timing can go bad, resulting in (among other things) the cylinder not turning properly.

Majic
October 28, 2004, 06:37 PM
Being mechanical and made by man, no revolver is 100% reliable. Moving parts wear and subject to breakage. Fouling can tie up an action. Screws can work loose.
100% means every time, all the time. The revolver does have a lifespan.

Fiero
October 28, 2004, 07:48 PM
I've had my cylinder stick when a fired cartridge is forced against the backing plate. I was advised to make sure the chambers are bone dry of lube before loading. Since I've heeded this, no more malfunctions. I hope this was my problem all along. But since it was always sporadic anyway, i'll have to shoot a lot more rounds to be certain.

albanian
October 28, 2004, 07:56 PM
Most of the problems I have had were due to reloaded ammo. Primers sticking out too far and binding the cylinder, squibs, non-sized cases, ect.

I have had a few revolvers that were not reliable due to mechanical problems. If in working order and fed good quality factory ammo, revolvers are far more reliable than autos. There is just so much more that can go wrong in a semi-auto that can cause a malfunction. A revolver doesn't really care how much recoil it has but an auto can't have too little (won't operate slide) or too much (jams due to double feeding or not being able to pick up the next round).

Cosmoline
October 28, 2004, 08:04 PM
I've had the main spring on Colt SAA clones break a few times, but modern coil springs don't suffer from this problem.

1858remington
October 28, 2004, 08:22 PM
Revolvers tend to be more reliable than semiauto pistols, mainly due to their simplicity.

They can be left loaded with no worry of spring relaxation problems.

A missfire need not be cleared before firing the next shot.

They don't stove pipe.

But, where I personnally have had a problem is when they become dirty from extensive firing.

I had a colt lock up, but that was because it had very tight tollerances and the dirty solo powder residue made tollerances even tighter. Cleaning solved that.

I have a colt made in 1860 and it still works fine, so I'd say revolvers are pretty reliable.

dfariswheel
October 28, 2004, 08:22 PM
Of the many unreliable revolvers I've seen, they run in the following categories (In no special order):

Defective ammo.
Worn or otherwise defective revolvers.
Altered (usually home gunsmith) revolvers.
CHEAP revolvers, especially foreign made revolvers.

Of the good quality American made revolvers that were NOT defective for some reason, I've never seen one that didn't work.

We invented the revolver and we've been making them for a LONG time.
Any bugs have been eliminated, and these are as fool proof as any firearm ever made.

Unless there's something WRONG with a good quality American gun or ammo, they always fire.

Nick96
October 28, 2004, 09:03 PM
I personally have never had a revolver fail (cheap / expensive - big / small - large bore / small bore). Hit a bad primer a few times, but never a gun related problem. Some got really hot, dirty and sluggish after a lot of use - but kept working anyway (even if not silky smooth). Personally I've only seen one revolver fail. A guy at the range said his S&W .357 quit working - I didn't investigate further about exactly what happened - I just took his word for it.

On the other hand, I've never had an auto that DIDN'T fail at some time. Ammo related or not - the fact was they wouldn't shoot again with just a trigger pull like a revolver.

Now I can trust what I read - or trust what I've actually seen & experienced. My experience tells me that when you REALLY need a handgun to work - you're better off with a revolver.

Standing Wolf
October 28, 2004, 09:15 PM
I personally have never had a revolver fail (cheap / expensive - big / small - large bore / small bore). Hit a bad primer a few times, but never a gun related problem.

Except for ejector rods unscrewing on Smith & Wesson revolvers, I'd have to say the same thing.

Boats
October 28, 2004, 09:22 PM
Screws?

What are screws doing in a reliable revolver?;)

4v50 Gary
October 28, 2004, 10:17 PM
On a S&W revolver, the cylinder would not pop out of the frame. The officer had to tap it against his heel to open it. After the range session, I tightened down his ejector rod. You might ask why I didn't tight it down when I first discovered the problem? Well, it was an opportunity for him to shoot under stress and to learn how to open the cylinder if that problem should ever happen again. He qualified despite his handicap.

SteelyDan
October 28, 2004, 11:53 PM
For what it's worth, I can honestly say that every revolver I've ever shot has worked 100% reliably. Not a single problem. I cannot say the same of the semis I've shot.

MrMurphy
October 28, 2004, 11:58 PM
S&W 586 4". During a qualification shoot, the S&B 158g rounds I had (previously not fired them in this gun..... the shop was out of Winchester and had no Remington!). The brass expanded and stuck in the cylinder, making firing any more than six shots a major problem I got them out, but it took a bit. Check your ammo before you use it!


S&W Model 10 Military & Police heavy barrel 4". During a PPC match a screw backed out and locked the cylinder in place. Figured out what happened and fixed it (and Loctited it shut), but in a gunfight, that would have killed me.

svetlio
October 29, 2004, 05:17 AM
Friends,

thanks a lot for all your inputs. From what I read it seems to me that revolvers are also not 100% reliable (like autos), even if fed with good ammo and kept clean. Some guys say autos are more reliable than revolvers, some say the opposite. I personally believe that a handgun should be thoroughly tested at the range before taken out for CCW, regardless of the fact if it is a wheelgun or an auto. I also think that wheelguns, even though not 100% reliable, are generally slightly more reliable than autos are.

From now on please write down only gun related problems, not failures due to negligence or bad ammo or dirt.

Thanks,

Svetlio

c_yeager
October 29, 2004, 06:16 AM
I think the thing that really differentiates wheelguns and autos when it comes to failures is this. Revolvers are FAR less prone to failure than autos but, when they do fail its usually pretty catastrophic (taking a lot more that a racking of the slide to fix). The only two problems i have had with revolvers were on one i got a an empty casing stuck under the star, this was human error and has since been rectified with some training, and on one S&W I had an ejector rod mysteriously unscrew itself rendering my weapon completely worthless untill i could fix it.

tbeb
October 29, 2004, 08:02 AM
A long time ago a Dan Wesson .357 magnum locked up on me, and a Taurus 85's firing pin only hit the primer hard enough to fire 2 of 5 rounds. Recently I bought an old model Charter Arms Undercover .38 whose firing pin only hit the primer hard enough to fire 2 of 5 rounds. I've never had a problem with a S&W, Ruger, or Colt.

The Dan Wesson problem never repeated. The early model Taurus 85 could not be fixed, so Taurus refunded my money. The Charter Arms was fixed by installing a heavy hammer spring.

unspellable
October 29, 2004, 08:52 AM
I've had quite a number of ammo related malfunctions. Not the fault of the revolver, but in a sticky situation it doesn't matter. Of course I've had ammo caused problems with self loaders as well.

For revolver caused malfunctions, I've had the ejector unscrew on a Taurus.

I have an old Colt New Service that's occasionally a bit iffy about the trigger return.

I have a Ruger Old Army that had frequent misfires. After some sorting out it proved to be a weak main spring. I bought it used so I couldn't swear it had the original spring in it.

As far as testing a piece before carrying it, that's a must do, but people tend to overlook ammo caused malfunctions. You need to give the ammo a good inspection before carrying it. In my little museum of horrible examples I have a 10 mm and a 32 Special factory load, neither of which can be chambered with out the use of a mallet. I have a 25 ACP with the primer loaded sideways. An acquaintance has a box of 458 Winchester hard ball with no lead inside the jackets. You get the picture.

popbang
October 29, 2004, 09:29 AM
I have a Vaquero that the firing puin peened from the tranfer bar after about 7,000 rounds and a few more dry firings. It could still be fired by jerking the trigger fully to the rear raising the transfer bar a little more than where the trigger breaks.

lee n. field
October 29, 2004, 10:39 AM
Broke firing pin spring.

Yoke screw backing out, and me not noticing until the whole thing comes off in my hand. "Ohh, that's interesting."

Powder fowling causing the cylinder to seize up.

Yeah, they break.

Checkman
October 29, 2004, 11:22 AM
Ejector rod on my S&W M28 came unscrewed once. That's about it. Seems to be a common problem with Smiths. Why?

Sistema1927
October 29, 2004, 12:41 PM
I had a Taurus .22 (Mod 94? 92?, I don't remember) that would give light primer strikes. I got rid of it quickly.

Other than that, I have never owned a revolver that was 100%, but I have seen a couple of el cheapos (RG) owned by others that were a disaster.

gvass
October 29, 2004, 12:46 PM
hi,
last week a Ruger Speed-Six's ejector rod unscrewed after exstensive use. But it is not a reliability issue as not stopped the firing JUST the reloading. (After 6x357 Mag JHP, who needs reload:-))

Except this phenomenon, the only - NOT ammo-related - problem is the timing error (off center firing pin hits), what is occured only with well abused or very old guns.

OK, maybe sometimes the firing pin could break (old SW hammer-style).

I LOVE revolvers, now I carry two:-))

Dienekes
October 29, 2004, 01:36 PM
The *norm* is 100% reliable with a good S&W or Ruger DA . (I do not include Colts because for all practical purposes they are nonplayers these days.)

In a prior existence I was instructor/rangemaster for 50 plus officers. With rare lapses, it was a wheelgun world and the issue guns were Ruger Speed Sixes, with about a 15% mix of K frame Smiths. The standard course of fire was 60 rounds and we usually fired about 60 more rounds above that doing additional work. The qual course and half of the extra rounds were full power .357s.

Early on I made it a point to blue loc-tite all the extractor rods to prevent their unscrewing. I also hammered home the idea of keeping the star and its seating area as clean and dry as possible to allow full seating at all times. We also adopted the vertical pop style of ejecting so all the junk from firing tended to fall free of the gun. The very few cases we ever had of cylinder lockup prior to that time never occurred again.

S&W adjustable sights would depart the gun if the very small mounting screw became loose. Solution, loc-tite and occasionally check it. (Still doesn't prevent using the gun!)

Had one thumb-piece pivot screw back out on a Ruger which was a first (and last). Had one private-purchase Service Six with action problems I could not fully diagnose and fix with my Ruger Armorer's sheepskin, so sent it into the factory to let them worry about it. Considering I paid $89 for a beater gun it was understandable.

As a counterpoint to this as we began to utilize semiautos (Glock 17/19, SIG 220s) there was always a random failure to feed sooner or later. No matter how much we analyzed it the cause for the failure was maddeningly vague. This after considerable transition training and the exclusive use of fresh factory ammo.

I cut my teeth on DCM 1911s in the 60s and do not remember much if any trouble with either hardball or my handloads. Went through Gunsite's 250 class with one which chugged right through with my oldest, rattiest magazines. Carried a LW Commander for years and it perked fine. When the frame finally cracked I had one of the best smiths in the business rebuilt the gun, no expense spared. It was never reliable thereafter and I finally dumped it. Replaced it with a SIG 220 which is not 100% thus far.

Some years ago there was an incident in the SF area in which an 80-ssome year old man had to use an almost equally old M10 S&W in the middle of the night. He had last fired it sometime in the 1950s, loaded it up with whatever was on hand, and used automatic transmission fluid for lubrication (not a bad choice, actually.) The gun worked just fine and the BG was carried out feet first. Elderly, virtually untrained user, elderly generic gun, elderly unknown ammo, and high stress: operation a complete success. THAT, to me, tells it all.
With QC the way it is these days I do not say that all wheelguns will be infallible today either. But my experience has proven--to me at least--that if it really, really has to go bang, make it a S&W or Ruger revolver.

And, no, I don't think high capacity and "firepower" mean much this side of Baghdad.

obiwan1
October 29, 2004, 01:43 PM
Beware of accumulated crud under the ejector star. Also one of my Charter .44s initially had occasionally produced lite strikes on the primer while shooting DA. I'm not sure if it was because of burrs in the mechanism, or something else but since the gun was new a quick trip to the factory helped. I don't us it much, but if were to become my main defense gun (VERY unlikely) I would work with it as to be sure of its reliability.

Vern Humphrey
October 29, 2004, 02:23 PM
During the Vietnam War, the Army issued S&W .38s to helicopter pilots and crew -- they rapidly became junk in the field.

Revolvers use tiny parts (the hand) to move massive parts (the cylinder). They depend on a delicate mechanism (the cylinder stop) to align the chamber with the barrel. Ejection can be a problem with revolvers -- particularly with crud getting under the ejector star. Cases can also fall back and jam the ejector star if poor gun-handling techniques are used. There has been a rash of postings on this board of transer bars and other parts breaking.

I had a Charter Arms .38 Special that would allow the cylinder to be pushed back too far -- there was clearance between the flange on the right lower rear of the cylinder window and the cylinder.

I had a Colt SAA that would rotate past the cylinder stop (Colt fixed it.)

I have had several problems with revolvers -- probably as many as I have had with autopistols. But under the most severe conditions, the M1911 shines. Having carried both a revolver (Colt M357) and an M1911 in combat, I'll go with the M1911.

cordex
October 29, 2004, 02:30 PM
Of the good quality American made revolvers that were NOT defective for some reason, I've never seen one that didn't work.Unless there's something WRONG with a good quality American gun or ammo, they always fire.
Er ... isn't that sort of by definition? And I'm not sure the country of origin has as much to do with it as the fact that the gun has nothing wrong iwth it, is good quality, has good ammo, is not defective, etc.

foghornl
October 29, 2004, 02:36 PM
Hmmmmm.......

Worst one I ever had was an RG brand of DA .22LR revolver. It always went bang!, but you couldn't hit the ground with it beyond muzzle contact distance.

Swamprabbit
October 29, 2004, 03:06 PM
As one or two others have mentioned, unburnt powder granules will lock up a tight revolver. For example, I have a S&W Performance Center M66 that frequently does does. A couple of granules can get in under the extractor and you have to open up the cylinder and get the powder out.

I also have had the extractor rod back out of my older M29.

carpettbaggerr
October 29, 2004, 03:37 PM
Nobody's had a revolver in .22 Remington Jet? Bottlenecked cartridges and wheelguns don't mix well.

Cosmoline
October 29, 2004, 03:58 PM
the Army issued S&W .38s to helicopter pilots and crew -- they rapidly became junk in the field.

I've never heard that they "rapidly became junk" before. Where are you getting that information? Maybe it's a Smith thing. My Colts and Rugers have never shown the sort of star sensitivity you describe.

In fact I've had extremely good reliability from the Ruger .357's I've owned over the years--mostly beat up old Security Sixes--in spite of really horrible abuse. They've taken abuse ranging from being dropped in boiling water, dropped in salmon streams, dropped in snow banks, lost in snow banks, run over by my pickup and left out in the rain (yes, I know, I'm terrible). I've never had to do anything more than rub them with a rag and they fire perfectly. Zero failures to fire.

Vern Humphrey
October 29, 2004, 04:08 PM
Quote:
--------------------------------
I've never heard that they "rapidly became junk" before. Where are you getting that information? Maybe it's a Smith thing. My Colts and Rugers have never shown the sort of star sensitivity you describe.
--------------------------------

I was there (two tours, with the last one extended about a month and a half.) I saw it.

I saw plenty of S&Ws (which was what the Army bought) that had all sorts of problems -- from sprung cranes to broken hands, bolt stops, and so on.

Cosmoline
October 29, 2004, 04:21 PM
Well that must be a Smith & Wesson issue. Those parts should not break so easily. Were those alloy frame airweights?

Too bad the SP-101 hadn't been invented by then.

Vern Humphrey
October 29, 2004, 04:46 PM
Quote:
----------------------------------
Well that must be a Smith & Wesson issue. Those parts should not break so easily. Were those alloy frame airweights?
---------------------------------

Steel frames -- mostly K-38s. Revolvers just couldn't stand up to the rough handling in combat.

Now, I carried a Colt M357 on my first tour, and it was just fine -- but it was MY gun, and I babied it. In the hands of the troops, however, an issue revolver doesn't get that kind of babying.

svetlio
October 29, 2004, 05:09 PM
Dienekes,

Thank you that you took the time to write such a detailed post about your experience. It is very interesting.

For me the 'moral of the story' is that a wheelgun is more reliable than an auto. What about wheelgun vs. 1911? You said you had no issues with your 1911s. Is it as reliable?

Thanks in advance.

Svetlio

unspellable
October 29, 2004, 05:21 PM
I think the comparision between the two type varies depending on conditions. Where a handgun is well maintained and carried under clean conditions with light use, say a bank guard, the Revolver will be more reliable. In a lot of fast competition shooting the self loader might win out.

Where the gun is abused or suffers bad conditions, it might depend on exactly what those conditions are.

Vern Humphrey
October 29, 2004, 05:27 PM
Quote:
---------------------------
I think the comparision between the two type varies depending on conditions. Where a handgun is well maintained and carried under clean conditions with light use, say a bank guard, the Revolver will be more reliable. In a lot of fast competition shooting the self loader might win out.

Where the gun is abused or suffers bad conditions, it might depend on exactly what those conditions are.
----------------------------------

There you have it. My experience is, in the worst conditions, the M1911 is a winner.

And I have no qualms about carrying a revolver (as I noted, I carried a Colt M357 my first tour.) But it takes care and maintenance to keep a revolver reliable under adverse conditions -- more than needed to keep an M1911 perking.

svetlio
October 29, 2004, 05:30 PM
I think the comparision between the two type varies depending on conditions. Where a handgun is well maintained and carried under clean conditions with light use, say a bank guard, the Revolver will be more reliable. In a lot of fast competition shooting the self loader might win out.
----------------------------------
Unspellable,

that's exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks.


I am trying to find a handgun for home defence and CCW. I need a gun to bet my life on. No bad mud, war...etc conditions.

From what I see and hear in this thread I should pick a wheelgun and control it often if all screws are tight. Also keep it clean.

Svetlio

Dienekes
October 29, 2004, 06:44 PM
I think that a 1911 with rounds it likes is awfully close to completely reliable--as much as any mechanism operated by people and subject to Murphy's Law can be (which can be very good indeed).

*However* everybody and his dog makes a 1911 clone, and from what I hear lots of them have "quality issues". I started out with DCM (GI issue) guns and hardball, and everything in them and connected with them was of known quality. I just don't remember any problems from those long-ago days. I still trust those guns. My new SA Mil-Spec seems to be okay, but it is *not* the same gun. If it doesn't keep running right, it will be gone. I currently have a Ruger P97 that is not making the cut, and will be gone shortly.

As to revolvers in the US military, I presume they were mostly M15 Smiths. We had them in the Air Force. They were good guns, but somewhat vulnerable to abuse or mishandling. Blued guns in RVN were not exactly rustproof, either. Of course one partial remedy for this is to take care of your weapon! I might do just fine with one--but I take care of my stuff.

From what I can tell, the DA revolver is a bit less tolerant of user abuse and neglect in maintenance, whereas even good semiautos are more reliant on everything working properly. With a good DA revolver, if your finger still works the gun is probably going to go bang. With the semiauto, one glitch in the sequence leaves you high and dry.

Here's how it breaks down in this outfit: I use a Security Six and 442; my wife has a M37 airweight; my son has the beater Service Six; my daughter has a G19 (and recently found a M10 3"). My new daughter in law wants an SP-101. So while we differ, we are all getting just about 100% reliability where the rubber meets the road.

If it isn't reliable, do yourself a favor and drop it off a bridge.

flinchy
October 29, 2004, 10:15 PM
I have a S&W 686 had this weird problem, If I squeeze the trigger slowly, the cylinder would rotate to the next chamber but the hammer won't cock and fall. Had to sent it back to the factory. I haven't had a lot luck with w&w :mad:

brokendreams
October 30, 2004, 02:15 AM
In my (very limited) experience, the wheelgun was really nice. Today I fired a S&W 686 in the 6" and it was very contorllable for me. Also, no problems (except for one tight cylinder that had a problem extracting).

I also shot a Colt 1911. I had a stovepipe the first time I fired it.

Now, yes. That was probably user error. I probably limp wristed it. BUT... I had never ever fired a revolver before, and it worked the whole time. Reloading was kind of a bitch with that one tight cylinder, but no biggie.


Now, I am planning on carrying a semi. Why? More rounds, Easier to reload, If you learn to shoot it and have good ammo, some of them can work flawlessly. Same with revolvers. It all depends on personal preferance.

car541
October 30, 2004, 07:08 AM
I had the firing pin of a model 19 break off once (after thousands and thousands of rounds), and I have a colt DSII that had a brittle mainspring (broke after about 30 rounds) from the factory, which, once replaced has been fine.

Crownvicman
October 30, 2004, 11:01 AM
I've had a S&W model 64 shoot it's barrel down range. Nothing made by man is 100% reliable.

pwrtool45
October 30, 2004, 01:03 PM
Any revolvers not 100% reliable?

All of them. The question belies a certain acceptance of the old "six for sure" mentality which isn't entirely correct.

My 6" 686-4 has somewhere in the 9k mark through it, with a goodly amount of my perhaps-too-adverturerous handloads and Keith loads. Not a lot by a real shooter's standards, but certainly broken in. It's got at least twice that in dry-fire cycles, probably more since it was my first centerfire revolver. Somewhere between 75-80% of the total cycles were (fast) DA as I used it for informal steel shooting. The cylinder stop and stop notches are fine; the wear on both started and stopped long ago. It's seen more of the woods in northeast Alabama that some people that've lived here their entire lives. The only modification is an ivory front sight insert. No worries.

My 681-2 is a police trade-in that had seen it's fair share of abuse before I got it. I've thrown it on the ground (port side up) several times to test the old chestnut that that's where the real fragility of the system is. Didn't hurt it. The center pin is very wide relative to its protruding height; in order for this to be a problem the center pin would have to be defective in terms of materials. This one only has about 2k through it. No worries.

Etc, etc, etc.

OTOH, I've dropped my Glock 21 on a carpeted floor and the front sight popped off. I understand the night sight models are steel and have a hex nut as a fastener. Probably a good idea.

Hang around long enougn and you'll break one of everything. This goes double for GI recruits, who are capable of breaking anything in an accellerated time frame.

Yooper
October 30, 2004, 01:30 PM
Anything is 100% reliable, until it isn't. I've never experienced a failure to fire with any of my revolvers, so far they're 100% reliable.

I qualified for my CPL with about 30-40 others, a large number for a rural area, and about 25% of us used revolvers. While none of the revolvers failed, several of the semi-autos experienced failures to fire, probably 6 or 7 of them. I don't remember any greenhorns in the group, all present had at least some handgun experience.

RON in PA
October 30, 2004, 02:31 PM
I've had a Smith M18 (bought LNIB) break it's cylinder lock during its first trip to the range. That's the only revolver parts breakage in my 35 years experience with handguns. I have a GP100 that will start hanging-up on one chamber after it's good and dirty with my cast bullet reloads, doesn't do it with factory loads. Same with a Smith 19. All my other revovers will shoot at least 200-250 rounds of my cast bullet handloads without a problem. Obviosly it's an individual revolver problem. I'd like a ten dollar bill for every hangup I've had with semi-autos including Sigs, Glocks and Berettas. Never had a malfunction with my Ruger 95, Smith 5906 and BHP.

Interesting comments about the revolver in Vietnam by Vern. Maybe they aren't the best for the tough tropical conditions of a place like Viet Nam, although it would have been interesting to know how a stainless steel gun like a Smith 64 or Ruger Security series would have done.

My experience leads me to believe that you need to know how an individual weapon (revolver/auto) and ammunition combination works. Most clean revolvers with factory ammo will go bang for a whole cylinder in my experience. My Ruger 95, Smith 5906 and BHP will do the same with the magazine in the gun.

flinchy
October 31, 2004, 10:12 AM
Not matter how reliable a revolver is, it alwasy "jams" on 6th/7th round. :) It probably takes longer to clear the "jam" (reload) than to clear a jam in auto, in most case.

Cool Hand Luke 22:36
October 31, 2004, 12:02 PM
I have had trouble with Sellier & Bellot ammo in my SP101.

Some people disagree with this assessment, but I find it to be dirty ammo that builds up crud in a cylinder to the point where a round will back out and bind the cylinder.

This happens usually after 200-250 rounds of .357 at a range session.

As for the gun's mechanism, the only problems have been ones I have caused by putting in a Wolf spring that would give light strikes & other problems. Quickly fixed with a slightly heavier spring.

BluesBear
October 31, 2004, 12:28 PM
If I squeeze the trigger slowly, the cylinder would rotate to the next chamber but the hammer won't cock and fall. That sounds like the trigger wasn't fully resetting.


By the way,
Flinchy, Welcome Aboard!™

Bullet
November 3, 2004, 02:42 AM
I had a brand new Colt Python. When I cocked the hammer and pulled the trigger the hammer stoped about half way down. Took it to Colts warranty repair. When I got it back it worked fine.

As to which is better a revolver or a semi-auto the best answer I heard was a revolver is better for the first 6 shots semi-auto is better after that.

g56
November 3, 2004, 06:09 PM
Revolvers aren't 100% reliable, they are pretty good, but I have seen and experienced revolvers with problems that weren't caused by external items. I had a S&W Model 19, bought new at a gun show, it would lock up about every 5 or 6 times you would pull the trigger (timing problem), sent it off to authorized service center 3-4 times, they never fixed it, take it out of the box, try to dry fire it 10 times and it wouldn't make it, lock up solid. I finally called the factory, sent it back to S&W's own service, they fixed it. I had another Model 19 that was bought new, sights were waaaaay off, you couldn't adjust the sights enough to get on the target, traded it off. My aunt had bought a H&R revolver for personal protection, it would lock up when you tried to shoot it, another revolver with a timing problem right out of the box. I had a brand X revolver a long time ago, the cylinder didn't line up with the barrel very well, it would shave bullets and bog the cylinder down with lead on the face of the cylinder, after 4 or 5 shots you would have to turn the cylinder by hand to continue to shoot.
:what:

I've had a lot of good revolvers and a few bad ones, I don't think you can call anything 100% reliable.

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