Purchased 1st Sks


November 20, 2004, 10:16 PM
I've always wanted one, just didn't want to add another caliber, "ammo storage getting cramped in the >shared mutual vault". UN-ISSUED, AND, it had a beautiful beechwood stock, not a ding or scratch "anywhere"- also looking over the log book which came w/ it 472 rds through it!" LAST ENTRY DATED >7-4-99<" :rolleyes: unusual significance :what: , ALONG W/ THE STAPLED IN TARGET MARKINGS, "X"-RING IN EVERY ENTRY,THINK "SOMEONE HAD THIS ONE MARKED", The stock was SLIGHTLY STAMPED w/ the ser#, came w/ sling, 2pouch-leather ammo pouch, missing the cleaning kit-BUT "dealer has one at the shop for me", along w/ the lube pouch and leather, ITS NOT THE ORIGINAL OR THE ROMANIAN, BUT ITS MINE :)

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November 21, 2004, 12:08 PM
:uhoh: , Now comes the "fun part". I need suggestions on getting all the COSMO off this. Any tried & true methods ?

November 21, 2004, 02:30 PM
I lot of people have their own way to clean off cosmoline but here is what I used.

1. Lots of non-chlorinated brake cleaner.
2. CLP
3. Very hot water. Yup...hot water

Disclaimer: You may not want to do this with Spoues's/Lifemate's/roommate's pots and pans. At least don't get caught :evil: Seriously, I strongly recommend using pots and pans that will never be used for food again.

Try to remove as much cosmoline as you can with break cleaner

Take a big pot and fill it. Bring to a boil. Pour into a flat cake or casserole pan (recommend Pyrex...easier to clean up afterwards).

Drop in recoil spring you pulled out of the bolt carrier, bolt carrier, bolt, trigger group, and any other parts that will fit. You may not want to do all at once. The pan is going to get messy.

Let the parts soak. you will see the cosmoline melt off and float.

Swish around and remove. (CAUTION: PARTS ARE HOT!!).
Spray down again with break cleaner and try to remove any remaining cosmoline.

Coat parts with favorite CLP/gun oil.

The rest of the rifle is simply a lot of elbow grease, rags, and solvent/break cleaner/CLP. Be sure to get the entire gas system cleaned out. There is an operating rod (right term?) and spring under the sight. The lever used to release the gas tube also releases the op-rod. Keep rotating the lever and it will come out. Be careful not to launch it across the yard or at pets. This part gets overlooked and will cause the rifle to fail if not cleaned out.

The bolt is the hard part. The firing pin channel must be clean to allow the firing pin to free-float. If not properly cleaned out you are risking the firing pin to stick and cause slam fires. Best test is to shake the bolt and hear the firing pin rattle around.

The best thing to do is remove the firing pin. You have to use a steel punch and a big %#$@ hammer on a steady surface to punch out the retaining pin. It also holds the extractor to the bolt so be careful not to lose the spring. Once it is out, clean out the channel and reassemble. The retaining pin is a bear to get out. Don’t be afraid to pound on it. Do not spray oil back into the firing pin channel. You don't want it to get gunked up again.

Clean cosmoline covered pans and hide away to be used for next SKS.

Other people may have better suggestions for you, but this worked for me.


November 21, 2004, 02:32 PM
Now comes the "fun part". I need suggestions on getting all the COSMO off this. Any tried & true methods ? Heat will melt it. You can use something like a hair dryer *carefully and away from flammable stuff*. In the summertime, I let the parts warm up inside a hot car.

Mineral spirits is cheap by the can and will disolve it. Dissasemble the rifle, put all the parts that will fit, into a jar filled with mineral spirits and let it soak overnight then scrub with a toothbrush. Compressed air helps get disolved cosmo out of the nooks and crannies if you have it.

Use mineral sprits with a toothbrush to clean off the barreled action. Wipe down the stock with it also. Lemon oil also works well on the wood especially as a second step.

November 21, 2004, 03:13 PM
So, ya gonna show us a picture? Where'd ya get it? :D

November 21, 2004, 04:00 PM
The best way that I've found to remove cosmoline and other long-term storage preservatives is with plain ol' kerosene, in conjunction with a couple of cheap paint brushes and some rags. A pair of chemical resistant household gloves are nice, as are a few Q-tips.

You'll likely want to do this outdoors for obvious reasons.

Step 1: Assemble materials. A couple of quarts of kerosene, the above items, and a two-pound coffee can or similar container for soaking and catch-basin duty, plus your cleaning rod and jag.

2: Field strip your SKS. Here's where you'll come to appreciate just how ingenious this old design is. The only tool needed is a cartridge, but you can use an old Philips screwdriver if you like. Don't forget to remove the piston and spring from their tunnel under the rear sight base.

3: Put the trigger assembly, bolt and carrier, small piston and spring, in your can. Pour in some kerosene and start brushing. As the parts are degreased, wipe them off with rags and set them aside. Run some solvent soaked patches or your bore brush through the gas tube. Wipe down the exterior. Don't soak the wood!! Run a couple of dry patches through and set aside. Wipe the piston down.

4: Next the receiver and barrel. I start with the receiver end in the can and brush all of the gunk out of it first. Make sure that you flush inside all of the nooks and crannies well. Brush as far up the exterior of the barrel as you can, then reverse ends in the can. Use your brush to get the solvent into the chamber and barrel. When the chamber is clean, run a couple of patches through the bore. You can use the bore brush in your cleaning kit if necessary to scrub any stubborn spots in either. Wipe off the excess and set it aside.

5: Now for the wood. Dampen a rag with kerosene and wipe down anywhere you see cosmo. Don't soak it!! Unless it's been literally dipped in the stuff, it shouldn't be necessary to do more than wipe it off. Rub off the excess with dry rags as soon as possible. Kerosene won't lift most finishes, but you don't want to let the wood get any more solvent into it than absolutely necessary.

6: If you've got access to compressed air, blow any residual solvent out of everything, your trigger assembly especially. If not, just keep shaking it around and wiping it out until it's as dry as possible. I like to follow this with a good spray of WD-40. Let it soak into the metal for a bit, wipe off the access, and lube the working parts with your favorite oil or grease as required.

WD-40 isn't a good lube, but it's a pretty fair preservative. A good wipe of it on the exterior of the metal surfaces helps keep corrosion at bay. Let it soak into the pores of the finish for a while before you wipe it off.

Reassemble, lubing where necessary.

I've used this method on C&R pieces from several countries with no damage to either the wood or metal finishes.

Good luck, and congrats on your SKS. It's a great little utility carbine, tough and dependable.

November 21, 2004, 04:54 PM
Thank you all for the TIPS, I've also been checking out the surplusrifle site- neat video on dis-assembly and re. I'm going to wally world for some tips/and brushes "he said get 30cal brushes for the barrel cleaning- It didn't have one in the stock-but the dealer said he'd get me one-its just a ride to get there and they won't be open for a few days. ALso sorry MR. MC,> I don't have a digital camera to take pics- but will work on it. Also need to search the web to interpret the LOG-Book/ wish I new what they wrote and what the columns headers mean. I do beleive the last time it was shot was 1999, w a taget insert showing the groupings, "kinda neat, seeing how they documented everytime it was taken out and shot and "cleaned :scrutiny: / amazing though>the stock doesn't have a ding or scratch on it. Hopefully this week I can get it cleaned an to the range. And get back to you w/ a "GOOD REPORT"

November 21, 2004, 05:50 PM
There's some info on the log book posted at the top of this forum:


Good luck with the new rifle! It sounds like a real nice one.

November 21, 2004, 11:12 PM
Thanks for the link DMK, "but now after 4 1/2 hrs of getting some info, "I will in-fact have some ?'s for the dealer", though they have always been fair to me ususaully5-10% over cost "I realize they need to make some profit", I was happy, "I still am", to a point, found out it had few hundred rds through it/*Note-I'm not a buyer of curios'/relics so I don't know what to look for-just mentioned I'd like an SKS just for Keep Sake-and since a few friends from the range thought it might be fun,**cut to chase*, I found out unissued usually means about 50to100rounds ...Cleaned and Stored... After taking it down I found not all #'s match, :what: , box states all #'s match :scrutiny:, its not that bad after cleaning the cosmo- its the Beechwood,the barrel isn't as blue as I could see "eyes are kinda bad w/ color", I guess a little knowledge is dangerous at X's but at least they could have used a little clp on me B4 the grenade launcher was inserted :what:, Don't get me wrong "NOT having BUYERS REMORSE, Never had when BUYING A rifle /HG/SG, just dissappointed a little bit. I usually buy Modern pieces-butt, "I'M GONNA CHEW THEIR EARS OFF, just a little"..........THANKS FOR THE LINK..............
Forwarned, Is Forarmed, :o POES
HMMMM, maybe an extra one would help heal my wounds. since i spent sooo much X cleaning this one up.............and I did purchase a few rounds too many for one :rolleyes:

December 15, 2004, 02:58 PM
Finally got er' all cleaned up. Look :D , also cleaned the kimber custom pro eclipse ll / pics not the greatest but it works for now....

December 15, 2004, 03:21 PM
Unissued means unissued... not unshot. Mine had 105, IIRC, shots throught it when I got it.

Shoot it, have fun. You won't find any other decent semi-auto in that price range.

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