[Topgun]

My post regarding High Standard frame issues made me start thinking about GREASE.

My dad used to use a light coat of black graphite grease on his Woodsman that he won many medals with in the '30's.

I even used the same gun to take a 1st place with it. But when I gave it to MY kid, for some reason I stopped using grease and just used oil.

Seems like ....grease.....would soothe the cycle and modify a whole bunch of bad harmonics of sudden acceleration.

Anyone use grease and have comment?

Not GOBS of it.....just a light coating.

:confused:

[mainmech48]

I use grease on the slide and rails of my semiautos, mostly because it stays put better than oil and doesn't migrate into my holster or onto my clothing nearly as much. It also is less prone to evaporation and 'gumming' in long-term storage.

Just a light coating applied with a Q-tip. Don't forget to add a dab to the disconnector notch and the area that rides over the hammer when the slide cycles.

I've used "Gunslick" (the graphite grease product that I believe is what you refer to your Dad using) mostly on .22s, but had good results in revolver lockwork too. Haven't seen it in a while. I've also used "Dri-Slide", a powdered graphite/moly product in a solvent vehicle with great results, especially in .22 semiauto rifles. Also great for late season use in hunting weapons when the weather is likely to be very cold.

[yesterdaysyouth]

i use plain old red hi-lo temp grease on all my semi's...
oil is for the range when the grease runs thin...
it takes very little, one tube could last a man a lifetime...

[WT]

I use grease on my stainless guns. Brownell's makes a special grease for stainless.

[tc300mag1]

I use grease on my slide and have used the outers gunslick too it will smooth up the actions.

As said above i use grease to keep it from migrating to the holster when i pack it .

[Black Snowman]

I only use grease on the Glock rails. I feel it does a little better job keeping lube in place and I only use the gun at the range so I don't have to worry about temp or collecting grit. Everything else gets FP10.

[ruger357]

I use white grease on my SW1911's rails.

[Chuck Dye]

On the recommendation of my gunsmith, I use RIG +P (http://www.silencio.com/htfiles/chemicals.html) dispensed with a syringe from Brownell's (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1056&title=RE-USABLE+SYRINGES) . It seems to work well and is certainly easier to apply precisely than oil. Stays where I put it better, too. The syringes are available singly at many gunshops if you do not need or want 6.

[Marcus]

I use grease on the rails of all my semi autos too. It stays in place much better than oil. Currently I`m using Militec-1. A very little bit goes a loonnnngggg way. Marcus

[Rob96]

I use grease on the rails of my 1911's. Specifically, Wilsons Ultima Lube.

[sigman4rt]

I have used automotive mil-spec (red) grease on all my slides for years. Never had a problem. If you figure the stress and how fast the wheel bearings rotate on a vehicle at 70 mph. , a slide going back and forth is nothing in comparison. Put it on with a q-tip then wipe the excess off. When it's time for cleaning, Brakleen will remove it nicely, also does a great job on the barrel. Brakleen is the same stuff as Gunscrubber at half the price. I'm 53 years old, bought a tube of automotive red grease 15 years ago. I haven't even used half of it, don't expect I'll outlive that one tube.

[Moondoggie]

I use GI rifle grease on all of my semi-auto's, applied with a toothpick.

[12 Volt Man]

I use a very slight amount of tetra grease on all my slides. Sometimes a little miltec.

[Dr.Rob]

Gunslick is a no-no on my Ruger Mk2... the bolt velocity is too high and I get FTF's.

A very light shmear of grease is a must on my 1911's and hi-powers.

[Chris Rhines]

I use grease exclusively on all my firearms - no oil anywhere.
Slide Glide on slide rails, locking lugs, bolt bodies, and such. High-pressure moly-disulfide grease on trigger engagement surfaces.

- Chris

[Satch]

I use only Remington Dri-Lube. On another forum a "Smith" said that grease only collects powder residue quicker,and can effect the guns action over time.

[Serpico]

I like greae and have always used it for the rails but Kimber suggests I only use oil on the gun (FP10)...maybe it's due to the tight tolerances... but I use Militec grease on everything else...

[QB]

I use Militec grease on the rails of all my guns. Use Militec-1 (oil) and/or FP10 everywhere else.

[longeyes]

I use grease on the slide rails of all of my semi-autos. Wilson mostly.

[Black_Talon]

I used Ultima Lube on my rails and lugs throughout the 1990's and switched to Enos' Slide Glide around 2000.

About a year ago I ditched that and went to all FP-10. The FP-10 seems to stay cleaner longer and seems to be doing a good job of lubing even when it looks sort of dry.

[JerryM]

I did use grease, but now I use FP10. It doesn't "gunk up" like grease. I don't usse grease anywhere on my guns.

Jerry

[stans]

I use white lithium grease where appropriate, like the locking lugs of M1 Garands and Carbines, otherwise I use Breakfree CLP. I used to use grease on semi-auto pistols, but grease can be a real dirt magnet. A slurry of grease and powder fouling make a real nice polishing compound and I really don't think the slide and frame rails need any more metal polished and I know the hammer and sear don't!

[victory]

i prefer using oil. Militech or FP10 provides wear protection just as good as grease. I never have it run out because i don't overlube my guns. I take a saturated Q-tip of militech and run it on the rails and high friction points. Never had it evaporate between uses.

[trapshooter]

TW-25B. Sparingly. But some other good ones out there, already mentioned. I'm not in combat in the desert, so I don't worry about gunk buildup. If the gun is cold, "too much" grease can slow things down to the point of causing a malf, so some common sense is required regarding use on carry guns, if at all. In that situation, I just stick with a little CLP or Militec-1 if lube is required. In dry climates, I kept my handguns pretty dry when working them.

[KLR]

Ditto Huck Phinn- RIG +P lube on all slide rails. I use Break Free/CLP on the barrel, locking lug, etc.

[308win]

I use Clenzoil (http://www.clenzoil.com/) on all my firearms. Great lubricant and protectant, doesn't dry out, gum up, or get 'snotty' in damp comditions.

[Rinspeed]

I have started using the Slide-Glide from Brian Enos. It appears to be a very good product. It is the first grease I have used though so I don't really don't know if it's that much better than the other greases.

Rinspeed


http://www.brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html

[Hypnogator]

I, too, use Brian Enos' Slide Glide on all my autos, including my carry pieces. Since they're in holsters, covered by clothing, I'm not overly concerned with grit accumulation. Never had a problem with functioning.

If I were going to be in a very dusty/sandy enviornment, would probably use Strike-Hold as it doesn't attract or hold grit.

[Greymoor]

hehehe,

Reminds me of the 1st time I used grease on a slide. I had received a sample of Militec and desided to try it out on my Sig. P229. I put what I thought was a light coating on the slide rails and slaped her back together.

Next time at the range as the pistol got hot from firing I had grease oozing out all over. :uhoh: I had to keep wiping the pistol off and finally field stripped her and wiped the extra off. With Militec, at least, a very little goes a long way. I usually just use eezox now.


be well . . .

[Topgun]

Apparently "Gunslick" no longer exists. At least in local retail outlets. I...finally....found a tube of Lithium white grease at Auto Zone.

Put some on the H-S and ..... s l i c k......

I like it.

Hoppes makes a "Gun Grease" but the tube says it's for RUST PROTECTION and doesn't even mention lubrication. That's why I kept looking for the Lithium.

:)

[crucible]

I also use SlideGlide on my 1911's rails, along with EEzox for the rest. Works well, and I dunno how, stays put better than any other grease I've seen-even during shooting.

Eezox rocks too btw, and I use that on my mags too.

Cruc

[taliv]

i use the red grease on my ARs, and ultima lube on my pistols. seems to work pretty well. i tried using rems dry lube stuff on rifles and had horrible results. i put grease on the rails, and oil in appropriate places like pins and springs

[lee n. field]

A little dab of white lithium grease on the rails. I've also lately taken to putting a bit on the op arm of my Mini-14, where the little nub travels in the channel in the receiver.

[Wilson 17&26]

I use Slick 50 ONE GREASE (excellent for wheel bearings) on all but one of my pistols (rails, barrel lug, hammer interface with gun oil on other moving parts). I’m currently doing a one year test using Militic grease on the other pistol, with the FREE samples from their web page. The Militec appears to be doing as well as the Slick 50 but no better. The one pound of Slick 50 ONE GREASE costs me $3 or $4 few years ago and I’ve got half of it remaining. When it’s used up, I’ll do a price comparison.

[P5 Guy]

EP2 a little dab will do you.

[Clean97GTI]

I use copper grade anti-sieze compound and lubricant. This stuff stays on for a long time (and transfers to anything it touches...like clothes) and is insensitive to temperature. Just a little bit takes care of all my semi-autos.

[Aubrey_W_Bogard]

Another vote for TW25B where I can apply it; Militec oil into the areas I can't...

[edefonzo]

I've used Tetra gun grease on my semi-auto hanguns for a couple of years now, because it lubes well and doesn't stray from where you apply it. I applied it a little too heavy at first, but had no failures at all.

The only failure to feed that I can attribute to gun grease happened in my Browning Buck Mark competition pistol, and I can clearly state that that was my fault. Instead of disassembling the Buck Mark for cleaning after each range use I squeezed a little more grease into the rails when I thought the gun needed it. Finally, after 1500 rounds, the gun became too gunked up to cycle. After proper disassembly and cleaning off the gunk, the Buck Mark's been good for another 500 rounds so far, with just a little Tetra. If I used oil, I'd have to take it apart every time for lubrication, instead of just running the bore snake through the bore and brushing off the receiver area.

[ClarkEMyers]

Here's a vote for grease for range or games including the syringe Wilson ships with his guns. I've also used Isky cam assembly lube and assorted engine assembly lubes and automotive greases I had on hand for assorted places on a gun. I like grease for trunnions, bolts and locks on a high volume (clay birds) break action shotgun too. Sort of the more shooting the more grease.

On the other hand I will detail strip and boil in dishwashing liquid or dip in an ultrasonic bath to get my guns really clean - especially the .22 target guns - before reapplying lubricants and wiping down with Breakfree or whatever (RIG for storage).

And for carry guns, or hard hunting guns it's a different story - especially the obvious not much grease on bolt action firing pins in the winter. There may be better today but I have lots of Anderol for aircraft cannon left - I like to stick whatever I've got in a freezer and see what happens.

[Valkman]

No grease needed on my 1911's! FP-10 only and they work just fine. :)

[Black Majik]

Nope no grease goes on my handguns. Only oil for me.

Clean and oil when I get home from the range, and a drop or 2 of oil before the range session.

The only time I grease a gun is my M1a. The handguns have been doing great with just oil, so no need to switch. :)

[Michael Zeleny]

My SIG P210 likes to be greased:
http://www.swissrifles.com/access/greasecan.jpg

[orangeninja]

Rig +P goes on my Sigs, Glocks and Springfields.

[CZFreak]

I started using Gunbutter a while back and I really like the way it stays where you put it-especially on slide rails.

[Sactown]

Gunsmith also recommened Rig +P. Bought some but haven't used any yet (meaning I haven't cleaned my guns yet). He recommended Rig and then a coupla drops of CLP.

[Hammer-Ed]

I've got to second the Wilson grease. Stays put and a little dab goes a long way. My Sig really likes it on the hammer/sear as well.

[R.H. Lee]

Grease seems like a good idea, but after 100+ rounds it mixes with the carbon fouling and forms a sticky paste. I'd rather use oil, preferably something that keeps the fouling in suspension.

[Berg01]

If I am storing the guns for a while, I will use a little Militec grease on the slide rails and barrel hoods. Otherwise, Militec oil or FP-10 works great for me!

[Brian Williams]

I used to be a telephone man in an old dial central office with realy stepper switches and scrounged a jar of graphite shaft lube that I will never use up, Maybe my grand kids but not me.

[themic]

i use militec-1 grease. smells less after a couple of days, IMO. seems to stay put much longer, too. militec oil everywhere else, except sometimes a tiny RIG grease wiped all about if i'm going to be storing it for an exceptionally long time.

[MoNsTeR]

Slide-Glide. Lots of it.

[Stevie-Ray]

Rig +P on all rails. Works for me for about 15 years now.

[macavada]

I like Rig +P also. A little goes a long way.

[kart racer]

I agree w/CZFREAK,I started using gun butter and it seems to work really well.It comes in a small bottle with a needle oiler and is red in color and stays where you put it.