[Topgun]

What's next? It improved the pull about by 60% Still enough oomph to return trigger FAST.
What is next area? Not much to do but polish the slidey areas on hammer and trigger contact but don't expect a DRAMATIC improvement there.

What about mainspring? Leave it alone?

Any links to complete job?

[Standing Wolf]

Two suggestions: be cautious about the main spring, and don't be afraid to polish the rebound slide and frame.

In my experience, most new Smith & Wesson revolvers' main springs are set too high, which is to say: they deliver more than enough force to the hammer to ignite any primer that's ever been made. If you relieve a little of the tension, you'll lighten and probably smooth the double action pull; if, on the other hand, you relieve too much tension, you'll encounter failures to fire. Those are thoroughly aggravating on target ranges; they can be fatal in armed confrontations. I recommend caution, especially with a carry or home defense firearm.

If you polish the bottom of the rebound slide and mating surface of the frame, and keep both clean and well lubricated, you'll have lighter, smoother single and double action pulls. I use 1000 grit sand paper on a wooden block, plus oil.

If you "polish the slidey areas on hammer and trigger contact" too enthusiastically, you'll end up paying a professional gunsmith to replace parts. They're made of fairly soft metal with very thin surface hardening. If you polish through the hardening, you've irrevocably wrecked the parts.

Best of luck, eh?

[Topgun]

I did just that on a M36 and THOUGHT I was King Schmidt!

My carry gun to boot.

UNTIL I went out next weekend to TRY it.

click click click on double action. SA would fire MOST of the time.

Quick trip home to replace spring.

whew!

And dont wanna take off that case hardening. Good point.
polish rebound. sounds good.

[GooseGestapo]

For a self-defense gun, don't mess with the hammer spring other than to order a Wolf replacement spring from Brownells. I have cut rebound springs and shortened strain screws on my guns, especially ones used for competition, but for Self-Defense, you need the redundency that S&W builds into them.
Don't bother polishing the sides of the trigger or hammer as they don't actually ride the sides of the frame (or shouldn't).
Brownells also sells Power's trigger and hammer shims. I use these on all my competition guns. They eliminate play and bind/rubbing of these components. The trigger shims are actually important for maintaining proper timing and indexing of hand for maximum accuracy.
For self defense, I use a full power Wolf spring, and 12lb rebound spring. This maintains reliability while still giving a decent trigger pull.

FWIW; Jerry Miculek uses full power springs for his speed shooting because the trigger spring pressure pushes your finger back faster than you can physically retract it. Ed McGivern also used the full power springs.
The key is: Dry fire, Dry fire, Dry fire...................., and then dry fire some more !!!!!

[Blueduck]

FWIW; Jerry Miculek uses full power springs for his speed shooting because the trigger spring pressure pushes your finger back faster than you can physically retract it. Ed McGivern also used the full power springs.


Not sure about the Jerry Miculek part of that... In his trigger job video he points out that his famouse 625 he does lots of exhibitions with only hits the primer about a third as hard as stock gun, but that it works because he uses federal primers seated deeper than normal.

That sounds a whole lot like less than standard pressure springs to me.