Fixing AK trigger slap?


January 11, 2005, 02:51 AM
Is the best way to remedy this is buy a new trigger parts and install them?

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Dave Markowitz
January 11, 2005, 04:02 PM
Before you replace the FCG parts, try the fix described on Linkx310's Romanian Kalashnikov Rifles page ( I did it on a SAR-1 and it fixed most of the slap; I probably could have gotten it to the point where it had no slap but wound up trading off my SAR-1.

If you do replace the FCG, I can the Tapco G2 FCG ( It isn't adjustable like the Red Star Arms FCG, but it's ~ half the price.

January 11, 2005, 04:54 PM
It's as good an excuse as any to get the Red Star kit! :D

January 11, 2005, 09:39 PM
Replace the parts.

I am fairly certain the semi auto parts are made out of soft steel, and deform quickly, causing that painful smack to the trigger finger.

If it was a Maadi I would say wait a little longer and you won't have to bump fire it to empty the magazine... all by itself. :eek:

January 12, 2005, 02:52 AM
Hey thanks guys. I'd sure like to fix it the way it is, but the easiest way might be just to buy new ones. Thanks again!

January 13, 2005, 02:32 AM
It isn't that hard. I did mine in my SAR-2 and it made a huge difference and the slap disappeared. I eventually upgraded to the RedStar trigger group though, which is awesome.

January 13, 2005, 01:41 PM
How do you go about taking the slap out? Are the parts case hardened only?

January 13, 2005, 08:54 PM
I used Linx's site and followed his remedy, I ended up taking it down and going a little bit further several times till I got it to stop. While mine works well now and no longer has the slap I'd buy the Tapco kit.

January 16, 2005, 07:32 PM
go to the board (get there by going to They list several FCG kits that are way better that the century arms FCG. I think I got mine from Global Trades. No slap and a better trigger pull.

January 17, 2005, 01:14 AM
Many thanks Guys..... :)

Black Snowman
January 17, 2005, 01:24 PM
I recently took a good look at an AK trigger group. If you play with it a little bit it's pretty easy to spot what's causing the slap. The extended tab on the disconnector can be a culprut but the clearance on the bottom and the weight of the disconnector is what's important.

You can see where the trigger and disconnector could come in contact even if you remove the tab. You can clearance the bottom rear of the disconnector and get rid of the trigger slap without even having to remove the tab, although removing the tab is still a good idea as it would make the disconnector lighter and less likely to trigger slap.

This page has a good picture and description of what I'm talking about:

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