CZ trigger problem


Lobotomy Boy
February 24, 2005, 11:14 PM
I've always had a bit of trouble with my CZ75B trigger. When shooting single action, there is a strange sponginess at the beginning of the trigger pull. Tonight a friend was watching me shoot and he said that when I first pulled the trigger, the hammer moved to the fully cocked position (apparently it normally rests tiny bit before dead center of cocking). Pulling the trigger moves the hammer all the way out, which is where the sponginess comes from, then it breaks cleanly. It's as if the sear isn't timed right.

I bought the gun new last June and it's always been like that. I've been looking for a competent gunsmith in the Minneapolis area to work on the trigger, but now I'm wondering if this is a problem CZ should fix?

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George Hill
February 24, 2005, 11:18 PM
"Pulling the trigger moves the hammer all the way out, which is where the sponginess comes from, then it breaks cleanly."

I'm pretty sure that is what a double action trigger is supposed to do... but a spongy feeling isn't right. Call Mike at CZ-USA and have a chat with him.

Jim Watson
February 24, 2005, 11:25 PM
This is dead common in CZs, sounds like yours is a little worse than average, is all. The full cock notch in the hammer has a little undercut and the sear actually has to cam it back against the mainspring until it drops off the edge.
Call Mike at CZ-USA or ask around for a reliable gunsmith on the CZforum.

February 24, 2005, 11:28 PM
Deleted reply as Jim Watson beat me to it.

Lobotomy Boy
February 24, 2005, 11:44 PM
Thanks. That would explain what is happening exactly. I'll call Mike tomorrow.

Can this be fine-tuned out? I shot a customized 85 a few months back and that had the crispest, cleanest trigger I've ever felt.

February 25, 2005, 02:02 AM
Mike Eagleshield is THE man.

Walt Sherrill
February 25, 2005, 05:17 PM
Another option, if you're going to get a trigger job, is Jim Miossi, of Miossi Gun Works. He's a regular participant on the CZ Forum, and you can find his links there. ( Look in the Home Gunsmithing area.

He's very knowledgeable about CZs (non-decocker models), will give you a nice, smooth, trigger job without camming (i.e., when the hammer is cocked in SA mode, the hammer won't LIFT or move as the trigger is pulled.)

He's less expensive than Mike Eagleshield. (Mike is very good, too.)

February 25, 2005, 06:53 PM
You can certainly reduce this undesirable effect. You can cut down the height of the full cock notch on the hammer so it doesn't have to push the hammer back as far to drop. You can also change the angle on the sear so it deflects the hammer less to the rear, but you have to know exactly how to do this.... if the angle goes too far, the hammer will follow the slide forward and not hold on the FC notch.

February 25, 2005, 06:56 PM
Actually Ill be I can nail this one.......Ive had one or two of them :rolleyes:

If you put the safety on and pull the trigger while in SA mode, the hammer should not move at all. Dont pull really hard...just a little. If the hammer moves at all them you have some parts that arent as tight as they should be. The part thats on top of the frame where the sear/safety in pinned to the frame is loose on some guns. This is what causes most of the spongyness in triggers.
CZ Wont fix it under warranty as it doesnt hamper the function of the gun.

A good trigger job is always welcome and the smith may be able to tighten the parts up also.......

Shoot well................

DT Guy
February 25, 2005, 08:33 PM
My inability to get a great trigger on my 75B is what prompted me to get the 75SA. That camming just made it really, really difficult to shoot well, and I was unsuccessful in trying to work the trigger parts to be rid of it.

I've done trigger work on 30+ firearms over the years, but I wouldn't do it on a DA CZ again-too tricky.


Lobotomy Boy
March 15, 2005, 01:54 PM
I just spent 23 minutes on hold with CZUSA waiting for Mike, listening to the most gawdawful country and western music I've ever heard ("I'm a red-white-and-blueblood graduate of Honky Tonk U?"). Finally I hung up and redialed. I was told Mike was out to lunch.

So far, not so good.

mons meg
March 15, 2005, 08:13 PM
Did you ever get a hold of Mike @ CZ? I'm sure many of us fellow CZ owners are curious how they will handle your issue.

Lobotomy Boy
March 15, 2005, 09:43 PM
I called today and was put on hold for 23 minutes. I finally called back and was told that I couldn't possibly been on hold for 23 minutes, but that Mike was out to lunch. I called back an hour later, heard some woman scream (no kidding) and hang up. I called again and was told Mike was at the range for the rest of the day.

I still have hopes of getting this problem solved and will give Mike the benefit of the doubt. It does seem like they need some serious help answering the phones, however. This experience didn't make me feel very charitable towards CZ-USA.

Walt Sherrill
March 15, 2005, 09:59 PM
So... try Miossi Gun Works. They do a comparable job and cost less. (And Jim Miossi guarantees no camming.)

He's also in the process of getting some custom parts made for CZs (like sears, for example) which might eventually be of interest to many of us.

Lobotomy Boy
March 15, 2005, 10:12 PM
I'm going to talk to Mike, but I don't plan on giving them any more money. If they can take care of this, I'll be happy. If they try to charge me for something that should have been taken care of before they shipped the gun, I'll be quite unhappy. Then I'll go to Jim.

March 15, 2005, 10:13 PM
("I'm a red-white-and-blueblood graduate of Honky Tonk U?"). sorry you had problems with CZ, but, lay off toby keith he's a fellow okie and a second amendment supporter. :neener: saddlebum

March 15, 2005, 10:17 PM
I had my 75BD done by Mike--he's the only guy who will do decockers--and he did a good job.

That being said, my brother just got a 75SA, is interested in a trigger job, and I'm shopping around for him. Any idea how much a trigger job from Miossi will set someone back? Mike charges $125 for a DA/SA job, and $75 for a SA only job.

By the way, the contact infor for Miossi is 319 465-1911 and

Lobotomy Boy
March 15, 2005, 10:18 PM
Nothing personal against Mr. Keith, nor against country and western music. I listen to X Country and Hank's Place all the time on XM Radio. I just haven't warmed up to the pop-country stuff that's on commercial radio. It seems like if you follow a formula--combine as many mixed metaphors with as many corny cliches as possible--and Clear Channel will play your song 50 times a day.

I may not like his music, but it sounds like Mr. Keith is a decent fellow.

Walt Sherrill
March 15, 2005, 10:43 PM
If I understand what you describe, its sound as though you've got a functional weapon with a trigger you really don't like. I've had a bunch of guns like that, over the years. I got some of them trigger jobs. A few I sold or traded away.

CZs generally have fair triggers out of the box; some are better -- downright smooth and crisp, and a few are downright mediocre. Sounds like you got a mediocre one. (I've encountered SIGS with mediocre triggers, too, so its not just the purchase price that caues this. I know, too, that SIG doesn't fix the mediocre triggers that come off their assembly lines for nothing, either -- and a surprising number of my SIG-shooting buddies have had trigger jobs on their guns.)

The CZ is not a target pistol. It is not a 1911. Its a good service pistol that "points" better than just about any other gun out there, with only the Browning Hi-Power being as good. (Some say better.)

Tuned properly, however, the CZ will give a target pistol or a good 1911 a good run.

I don't think CZ-USA going to do ANYTHING to resolve the "issue" you describe. Only a trigger/action job done by someone familiar with the gun and how to set the proper sear/hammer hook angles will do that.

If you aren't willing to spring for the money to do that, you should really sell your CZ and find a gun more to your liking.

Lobotomy Boy
March 15, 2005, 11:24 PM
I'll pay for a trigger job. I just won't pay CZ to do it.

I guess I've learned my lesson. I've shot lots of Glocks, and never encountered one with a mediocre trigger. They have Glock triggers, which take some getting used to, but they all work exactly alike. I like that sort of dependability.

I've invested in a Kadet kit and extra mags, so I can't really sell the gun without losing my shirt. I think I'll fix the trigger and use the gun as a dedicated .22.

I'd be p.o'd if I had to invest in a trigger job on a gun as expensive as a Sig. I guess I'll be striking those off my list of potential guns, too.

The thing that really torques me is that my $199 Bersa Thunder has a great trigger. If my CZ was as good as the cheapo Bersa, I'd be thrilled.

March 15, 2005, 11:44 PM
I'm sure you could sell a NIB Kadet Kit for close to what you paid for it and the CZ-75B as well. Sell it to someone who appreciates it and is willing to do a one time trigger job or who may like it as is.

Walt Sherrill
March 16, 2005, 06:52 AM
If you won't pay CZ to do the trigger job, your next best bet is Jim Miossi of Miossi Gun Works. He's a regular participant and CONTRIBUTOR on the CZ Forum. Go there and get his email or website address. Mike Eagleshield of CZ-USA is the only CZ-approved armorer/gunsmith in the US; he does -- by all accounts -- superior trigger jobs. Jim Miossi is a highly accomplished gunsmith and armorer, and apparently does the same kind of work. Those are two PROVEN, highly regarded gunsmiths.

(I've had my local gunsmith do trigger jobs on my CZs. He polished the actions and hammer/sear interfaces, and cleaned things up a bit. Good trigger jobs, and they would certainly fix the problems you describe.

His work did not get rid of the "camming," of the SA trigger, which causes it to lift just a bit before releasing -- but reduced it.

It just depends on what you want.

A local gunsmith should be able to do what YOU WANT DONE for a very reasonable price, a good bit below the $100+ needed for the two 'smiths mentioned above. CZs are not fundamentally different than other DA/SA guns; the only time it gets a little complicated is when you are having work done on a "decocker" version of the CZ.)

Lobotomy Boy
March 16, 2005, 08:10 AM
Like I wrote earlier, my next step will be to go to Jim. I just want to give CZ-USA a chance at rectifying the situation before I declare public-relations jihad on the the company. This seems to me to be a design flaw, one that should have been worked out in 30 years of production. When I researched the gun I read a few vague references about the trigger, but if I had read that this is an issue with the basic design of the sear-hammer arrangement, I would not have bought the gun. Other companies can put crisper triggers on less expensive guns. Even the trigger on Ruger's P95 is better; CZ should be able to at least match the trigger on a sub-$300 gun like the P95 or Bersa Thunder.

I have been unable to find a local gunsmith who works on CZs in the Minneapolis, MN area.

Pilot wrote:Sell it to someone who appreciates it and is willing to do a one time trigger job or who may like it as is.

Is this an offer?

March 16, 2005, 09:15 AM
"Is this an offer?"

Ha! Believe me I'm temepted but I already have a CZ-75B AND the Kadet Kit for it, which also fits on my PCR. The trigger camming on all the CZ's I've fired inclyuding both of mine is almost imperceptible. I don't notice it and the triggers are fine.

If you are really serious about selling it post it on the classified here or other sites like the CZ Forum and I'm sure it will go.

March 16, 2005, 10:46 AM
I have been unable to find a local gunsmith who works on CZs in the Minneapolis, MN area.
Try giving the Outdoorsman gun shop in Hopkins a call. I've heard from friends that they sell lots of CZs, and their in-house smith works on them. I haven't yet dealt with them myself but I plan to check them out sometime.


March 16, 2005, 12:20 PM
CZs are not fundamentally different than other DA/SA guns; Actually, the DA trigger mechanism used by CZ is very bizarre and unlike any I have seen on other guns.... and the most resistant to getting very smooth and "linear". The SA trigger is standard and very easy to lighten and improve. Just cut the hammer hooks down in height a bit, and reface the sear. I was able to get the SA trigger on my 85 Combat down to 3# (very smooth), but the DA is 8# and not linear like most DA pulls. The DA mechanism has a very strange "ramp" effect with a release lever so it gets harder right near the break point. It is genuinely annoying. The SA pull is no problem.

For the record, "camming" on the SA pull is not a defect which CZ would fix, it is designed in... and for a good reason. It is the result of some "design margin" in the sear/hammer face angles to prevent hammer follow. And the large face areas are insurance against wear long term. This is a combat service pistol built to go a long time between repairs. The light, sharp breaking triggers require "skating near the edge" of the angles that give you hammer follow. In many cases, a really "trick" trigger job will go south in a few thousand rounds as the edge between the primary and relief cut on the sear wears... and the gun starts with hammer follow.

Those of us who tweak our own guns take that as the price of a light trigger, but the CZ is pretty well designed for it's intended purpose.

I will guarantee you one thing: If you take the sear out and "flat smooth" the face using 600# papaer and oil, then do the following: radius (round over) the sharp tip of the sear against the paper (don't go crazy, you just want to break the edge). Then assemble and lube with a mix of FP-10 and grease on those faces, you will get a much smoother SA pull. It will still be a long pull and the hammer may cam a bit, but if the motion is glass smooth, it will be very easy to shoot.

Lobotomy Boy
March 16, 2005, 06:27 PM
Thanks Bounty Hunter.

I have to admit I was a bit cranky about this yesterday. I was home from work with some kind of throat infection and in no mood for the run-around I got on the phone when I tried to call CZ-USA.

I think I'm going to try to have my gun improved as you suggested, then make it a dedicated .22. For some reason the camming doesn't affect my shooting as bad with the Kadet kit. I think the excellent sights help a great deal. I think I'll try to pick up a Glock 34 for centerfire target shooting.

I was busy at work today so I was unable to call CZ, but from what I've been reading it sounds like I'll be going with Jim anyway. First I'll check out Hopkins. The people who run the store seem decent.

Walt Sherrill
March 16, 2005, 07:41 PM
I have and have had a bunch of CZs, and haven't found them resistant to becoming smooth. Linear, however, is a slightly different problem. But a smooth trigger pull makes that less of an issue.

The geometry is different, but NOT the way the parts works. A good gunsmith can smooth it out pretty easily. I've had several done that way, very inexpensively.

Re: Glock 34...

I have a customized 75B SA, a wonderful Browning Hi-Power (from the '60s), an improved CZ-85 Combat, and a Glock 34. I shoot the 34 in competition more than any of them... Interstingly, its the only gun I've got that lets me reach both the mag release AND the slide release without having to change my grip a little.

March 17, 2005, 01:02 AM
Sorry for the delayed post but I just got a single action only 75B and it doesn't cam like my other CZs do. Perhaps others with a single action only CZ can confirm this but the trigger breaks nicely with no camming. I am wondering if it is because it only has the single action mechanism.

Walt Sherrill
March 17, 2005, 09:11 AM
Most of the parts are the same on the SA and DA/SA guns. The difference is that you're not transitioning from DA to SA. the "geometry," as noted above, is weird -- probably to reduce the manufacturers liability.

A gunsmith familiar with the gun can get rid of the camming and can make the gun both smooth and linear (or close enough as to not matter) -- but it takes jigs and knowhow.

In fact, you can swap out the trigger, get a trigger that is adjustable for both overtravel and take-up, and basically turn your gun -- if its not a decocker model -- into an "enhanced" SA. (I say "enhanced," as not all SA models come with two-way adjustable triggers; some come with overtravel adjustment only -- and a plastic trigger, too.)

After you swap it out, the new trigger may still need work, but you'll find it much different and, arguably, improved.

That said, I'd rather have someone rework the existing trigger of a DA/SA gun and keep the ability to start from hammer down. (Lets you shoot in two divisions in IDPA, rather than just one.)

March 17, 2005, 10:47 AM
Not much I can add to all the good information that has already been presented in this thread, except to mention that the CZ's trigger pull can oftentimes be noticeably improved by simply installing a lighter hammer spring. The factory hammer spring is rated at 20 lbs., and one can usually get away with installing a 16 lb. spring without compromising ignition reliability across most brands of commercial ammo.

Note that the lighter hammer spring merely reduces the trigger effort in both SA and DA modes. It does not eliminate the grittiness or reduce the pre-travel in the trigger pull. In addition, it might be necessary to install a heavier recoil spring to make up for the loss of initial resistance provided by the hammer spring against the slide's rearward movement.

I have 16 or 17 lb. hammer springs installed in all of my CZs (except the striker-fired CZ 100), and have not encountered any light strike problems with my handloads. In fact, my 40S&W 75B has the smoothest and lightest trigger pull of all the handguns I currently own.

(By the way, LB, I am located in the Twin Cities too!)


March 17, 2005, 12:06 PM
The factory hammer spring is rated at 20 lbs., and one can usually get away with installing a 16 lb. I have had the Wolff reduced power 15# spring in my CZ-85 for years and have yet to have a misfire. It reduces the DA pullw weight significantly, the SA only slightly.

March 17, 2005, 12:09 PM
I have and have had a bunch of CZs, and haven't found them resistant to becoming smooth. They can definitely be made smooth-ER, but the point in the DA pull where the trigger bar has to slide across the angled ramp on the bottom of the sear block (and in the process, release the hammer) is a definite "hitch" in the pull. If you are used to pulling on guns with the simple design like Beretta (where the trigger bar simply engages a hook on the tail of the hammer and pulls until it slips off) you will not like the "hang point" in the CZ's DA pull. It is not so bad you can't shoot it, it is just not a smooth trigger design.

DT Guy
March 18, 2005, 12:50 AM
Mmmm...I got my 75B SAO, and it cams like the devil...actually resembles a DA pull :banghead:

Gritty, rough, LOOOONG trigger pull on this baby-must have been a Friday afternoon gun!

Still shoots about on par with my custom 1911, though, so I guess it's getting a trigger job....


Walt Sherrill
March 18, 2005, 06:59 AM
Does yours have the metal trigger?

Is it adjustable for overtravel only, or can it be adjusted for take up, too?

There apparently are three SA triggers:

1) plastic, adjustable for overtravel only.
2) metal, adjustable for overtravel only.
3) metal, adjustable for overtravel and takeup.

I suspect you have 1) or 2). The third trigger would solve the LONG trigger pull issue for you, but would not address the grittiness. CZ-USA should have them back in stock, now.

I have a 75BSA that previously belonged to PCRCCW. It has trigger 3). He had a local gunsmith tune it. Its one of the best single-action guns I've shot; the gunsmith was very good. (PCRCCW told me, since then, that the guy moved away, and nobody knows where he moved. That fellow had a gift.)

While they make them, I've yet to encounter one of the more-rare DAO guns; I suspect that trigger would be an adventure, unless it was very, very smooth.

March 18, 2005, 09:43 AM
I have a 75B and the trigger seems fine to me. I find that proper trigger control can eliminate small issues with "Non-Competition" triggers. I use a Beretta M9 at work and the CZ feels better to me. Focus on sight alignment, press trigger straight back and hold to the rear. As long as the pull is consistent from shot to shot, I can get a feel for it and it doesn't affect accuracy (my CZ is the most accurate combat handgun I've ever had).

I use to have Glock 23 and it was an okay work gun, but when the trigger released it felt like a mouse trap letting go.

Overall it just seems some folks are hard to please, they want to spend $350 for a pistol and then expect it to have a trigger like a custon 1911 or Langdon Beretta. As for me, I stopped switching guns so much and concentrated on learning to shoot the CZ so my trigger finger don't get confused

March 18, 2005, 12:25 PM
I find that proper trigger control can eliminate small issues with "Non-Competition" triggers. Focus on sight alignment, press trigger straight back and hold to the rear. As long as the pull is consistent from shot to shot, I can get a feel for it and it doesn't affect accuracy (my CZ is the most accurate combat handgun I've ever had).

Well, sure.... if you're going to use good fundamentals..... :p any gun can be shot accurately.

Most of us rely on making the trigger better to compensate for our lack of abilities!

I agree about accuracy. My CZ-85 is WAYYY more accurate than one could expect a $400 gun to be, and my $700 Browning HI-Power that now rests permanently in my safe has been spraying shotgun patterns since I bought it many years ago despite trigger job, new barrel, and a lot of practice. Some guns just don't shoot straight.

Walt Sherrill
March 18, 2005, 12:53 PM
There's an interesting thread on the CZ-Forum right now by LDD, who talks about the geometry of the hammer hooks and sear, and how (specifically) to recut them so that the "hump" (my term, not yours, but "stacking" would probably also be correct) is done away with. Jim Miossi, of Miossi Gun Works seems to get the same results in much the same way -- Jims tells where to find the proper jigs to make it a far easier, more error-proof process.

As you point out, just stoning/polishing isn't going to do much to change that "hump", but changing the geometry will.

I've got a couple to which that has been done. Very nice, very smooth, and virtually no "stacking."

(By the way, I had an ANIB WWII P-38, a Manurhin-made version, with the star on the slide, that was like your Browning. I didn't replace the barrel, but could NEVER get it to shoot groups... I traded it, even, for a pre-B CZ-75; the dealer thought he was getting a deal, and so did I.)

March 18, 2005, 01:34 PM
For the record, the only way to eliminate camming entirely is to use what is called a "radius cut" on the sear face such that as the sear rotates, the surface in contact with the hammer hook maintains the same distance from the sear pivot. very few people use this because the typical sear jig will only cut one flat angle and a second angle "relief cut".

Radius cut sears give very smooth pulls.

March 18, 2005, 01:43 PM
"I have found the camming and poor trigger to come from two sources.

One, the sear and hammer hooks lock on an angle so that when the sear lifts to disengage the angle pushes the hammer back before it breaks. The angle interference is for safety but can make a trigger really hard. If the sear is not smooth and/or the trigger hooks have cutter marks on them the trigger roughness will be compounded.

Only way to correct this is to do a trigger job and make the sear and hook engagement straight with the rotational movement. The reason some of the old pistols have a good trigger is that the angle interference has just plain worn off over time.

Two, the sear/safety housing will typically be loose in the frame. When the trigger bar pushes on the sear lever (on the left side only) the whole mechanism will rotate counter clockwise and since it also has some slop to and fro, the whole thing moves rearward camming the hammer before the sear disengages. To check for this problem put your safety on and pull on the trigger. Ideally the sear will not move but most do, you can see the whole assembly wiggling around. For a simple fix you can shim the sear housing tight to the frame...see my post on the previous page titled "CZ action improvement" or something like that.

IMHO you can never get a proper trigger on a CZ without tightening up the sear housing first. Usually if you want to waste $80 or so just take a CZ to a lot of these so-called "gunsmiths" for a trigger job."

"Only way to correct this is to do a trigger job and make the sear and hook engagement straight with the rotational movement."

That is the "radius cut" I referred to before. The surface of the sear face has to be curved so as it rotates, the sear surface remains the same distance from the sear pivot point.

Lobotomy Boy
March 19, 2005, 09:19 AM
Redhat wrote: As long as the pull is consistent from shot to shot, I can get a feel for it and it doesn't affect accuracy...

I agree completely, and that's the problem in a nutshell. The trigger pull does not seem consistant. It seems like the camming is of a different duration every time I shoot. That is the reason I have such trouble shooting the gun.

I've been practicing with the gun like crazy, both with 9mm and .22LR. My frustration reached peak level the night I wrote this original post, when, after shooting maybe 400 rounds through the gun, I borrowed a guy's Glock 26 and put all 10 rounds through the 10 ring at 25 feet. This after spraying shotgun patterns all night with the CZ. (I should note that I was shooting at a 25-YARD target, with a very big 10 ring.)

March 19, 2005, 09:33 AM
I truely feel your pain.....after 24+ CZ's Ive got a CZ40B with the same problem.
Its just the "luck of the draw" its your first one.....

The trigger on mine is very very inconsistant, in fact it drives me nuts. There is a gun works on the CZForum that can shim the sear/hammer assy inside the frame and give you a trigger job at the same time, but will cost you.

I understand why your frustrated by the whole thing.....Im pissed at my 40 and will probably shim it myself.....Im known to jump into pools with both feet and not look for water :D

I can group with mine but it takes an act of God, a full moon and a couple of dead chickens sacrificed.

Shoot well...............

March 19, 2005, 11:44 AM

Find someone in you area who has a CZ-75B or something similar, especially a PCR. Shoot them and see how you do. I would get this trigger worked on pronto. A good trigger job is worth it. Neither of mine needed it, but its sounds like yours does

March 19, 2005, 01:30 PM
Well, Lobotomy.....I fixed mine.

Its freakin much easier than Id expected it to be. I took out the sear/ejector assembly and shimmed it with a feeler guage.........010" or ten thousands of an inch. I cut it down smaller than the size of the part as to not interfere with anything and drilled a 1/8" hole for the safety pin to go through and hold the whole thing in place. Put it back togethor and POOF!

Now the trigger is as good as my PCR and thats GOOD. All of the movement
is gone from the assembly.

With the safety on, pulling the trigger results in NO movement of the hammer now.
Ill link you to a couple of things that may help.....this info is from a CZForum article.
Removal of sear/Ejector Assy (

It took a while to get it back togethor, but was pretty straight forward.

I now have a CZ40B that I have to bench rest to see what it did to the accuracy...........:D Ill bet its night and day.........

Shoot well...........

Lobotomy Boy
May 4, 2005, 09:32 PM
I put a set of Wolf springs in my CZ, and it helped quite a bit. It is working much better, and my understanding of the gun is also much improved. I realized that I modifying my shooting technique a bit might accomplish as much as a trigger job. From shooting my Glock, which is the gun I've shot most, I have developed a technique of pulling the trigger to the "cocked" position, then slowly squeezing to the break point, which is very definite and extremely consistant. This technique works well with Glocks.

What I have discovered from practicing self-defense drills is that when shooting quickly from a low-ready position, I shoot the CZ much better than the Glock. This is because I squeeze the trigger much more quickly and more decisively.

That, I realized, is the key to shooting the CZ well. I have been practicing my technique, where I make the final squeeze more quickly and decisively, and my shooting has improved dramatically (except now I probably will need to retrain myself on the Glock). I have been enjoying my CZ very much, thanks to the new springs and my new understanding of the firearm.

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