[Topgun]

When I back off the mainspring tensioning screw to where it is a very light pull through (the shorter double action pull) and still have plenty for reliable ignition, I feel the mainspring "crink" when single actioning it.
I've swapped out the trigger return spring for a lighter but still fast Wolff spring and that's no problem.
The "crinking" bothers me so I have screwed it back in although the pull is a bit heavier/slower than when it's backed off.
Does someone make a different profile mainspring for lighter pull with the screw all the way in?

:confused:

[mete]

That screw is NOT a trigger pull adjusting screw. It should always be tight. I don't know if someone makes a replacement spring. The existing spring can be cut down [ narrowed] but ONLY if you know what you're doing. There must always be a proper balance between the two springs.

[dfariswheel]

Brownell's sell a fairly wide variety of lighter weight S&W mainsprings.

Keep the strain screw TIGHT, it is NOT an adjustment screw.

[Standing Wolf]

How do you set up a K-frame for double action?

1. Remove from box.

2. Load.

3. Point in safe direction.

4. Pull Trigger.

5. Repeat step 4.

Seriously: if you want the very best double action trigger on a Smith & Wesson revolver, you're going to have to turn it over to a skilled gunsmith. Tweaking springs can do a lot to slick up a single action pull, but a double action pull is more complex and delicate.

I can't recommend a gunsmith to you, since I hardly ever shoot double action, and don't care how my revolvers function that way.

[Sir Aardvark]

If you are a Do-It-Yourselfer, then may I suggest that you purchase -

Jerry Kunhausen's book: "The S&W Revolver - A Shop Manual"

It tells all you need to know about the S&W revolvers.

The mainspring tensioning screw, also called the strain screw, will cause a condition called "knuckling" if it is backed off too much. If the tension is too light, the mainspring is too straight - which makes it too long. This causes the hammer stirrup to bind against the back of the hammer.

What I did for my revolvers was file down the top of the strain screw until I got the pull I liked, without taking off so much that it caused knuckling. I like this method best because if you want to return your gun back into factory condition, you just screw in an unaltered replacement strain screw (that costs $1.85 from S&W).

You can also get a reduced power mainspring from Wolff. I tried this method first, but it made my gun sound like a cheap kid's toy - the spring would make a tinny sounding "twang" that actually made me laugh the first few time I dry-fired it. Being too embarrassed to actually take this to the range - I tried the "file the strain screw" method and kept the factory spring in place.

Also, you can polish the factory spring until it is thinner, thus giving reduced pull, or, more recommended, "narrow" the spring, bringing the same results. It is my opinion that polishing the spring (which can heat it too hot, screwing up the temper) and "narrowing" should best be left to the experienced tinkerer.

I've also seen locking screws that keep the strain screw from backing out. This is where a hole is drilled in the bottom of the frame to the strain screw hole. The hole is tapped and then a screw that is long enough to reach the strain screw is installed. Now you have a locking screw. This method requires a bit of work on your part, but will keep the strain screw from moving.
Again, I found it easier just to file down the top of the screw.

See what the other forum members post here, and do what suits you best.

[magsnubby]

Check out Wolf springs. They can fix you up with a lighter mainspring. I've used Wolf springs in several handguns. I've been very pleased with the results.

www.gunsprings.com

[Topgun]

Thanks for all the suggestions. Gonna get a replacement spring.

I...knew...it was supposed to be tight to keep the geometry right.

But........wellllll.......... you know....

The pull adjustment spring is the trigger return spring and that DID make a huge difference. But until I got the PM, I wasn't aware of replacement mainsprings.

Thankee all.

:)

[Brasso]

FYI,
Once you've moved the strain screw from it's factory setting, you need to go back and loktite it or it will slowly back out on it's own every time you pull the trigger until it won't ignite a primer any more.