[OtG]

It turns out that I shoot my S&W model 15 at least as well as my other handguns. The grip, which felt awkward at first, seems to feel pretty good. Even better now that I've put a Hogue grip on it.

My only complaint is that the DA trigger pull is a bit uneven.
Any suggestions? (NOTE: I sure ain't gonna take it apart myself!)

Otherwise..... damn this is a nice gun. :)

[Tijeras_Slim]

Com'on taking them apart is easy. Trust me on this one. ;)

[Old Fuff]

OtG:

Not disassembling your S&W model 15 revolver is a very good idea unless you know the in's and out's (no pun intended). If you do want to work on your gun start by buying a book: "The S&W Revolver - A Shop Manual" by Jerry Kuhnhausen (available from www.gunbooks.com and other sources). The book is writen in "layman's english" and well illustrated, and will show you what you need to know.

One simple thing you can do. At the bottom of the front strap you will notice a screw. This screw tensions the mainspring, and if it backs out, or if someone has shortened it, it will effect the way the action feels in the manner you described. The solution is to tighten the screw, or replace it if necessary.

Otherwise, if you want the double action improved either go to a QUALIFIED gunsmith or return it to Smith & Wesson's repair department.

[SnubbyMan]

Old Fuff,

I've been meaning to buy the shop manual myself. I noticed on the page you linked to that the manual "covers the non powdered metal part S&Ws made through mid 1999." I remember reading in the standard catalog that the lockwork in various revolvers (K-frames at least) had changed at some point in the relatively recent past. Do you know why the lockwork was changed? Was it an engineering change necessitated by the use of "powdered metal parts?" I have a couple of S&Ws with MIM parts. Would this manual be useless for these?

[Old Fuff]

The reason for the change was simple economics. MIM parts don't cost as much to make. You can get into a major debate as to how good or bad MIM (Metal Injected Molded) parts are, but I much prefer the forged steel ones they used before.

Be that as it may, when S&W made the changes they also changed the design of the parts somewhat, and that is the reason Kuhnhausen says that his book is for pre-MIM guns. Other then certain aspects in the lockwork the book is still valid in other areas. I suspect that one of these days he will come out with a new book to cover the Post-MIM guns.

When S&W made the changes they assigned a dash-number to the model, so it is possible to tell when the change was made. If you provide me with the particular models you have (including the dash number if there is one) I can probably tell you when the changes were made within that particular model(s).

[Standing Wolf]

My only complaint is that the DA trigger pull is a bit uneven.

"A bit uneven" is difficult to quantify. Very few revolvers have truly smooth double action pulls. I'd suggest taking yours to a competent gunsmith to have him or her estimate the unevenness and give you a price quote on smoothing it, if possible.

[Tacoma]

There are also a few good video/DVD's that will walk you through a trigger job. I have the AGI video ( $20 on Ebay) that does a good job with the teardown, cleaning &reasembly process. Not hard once you get over the fear of it :rolleyes:

[saltydog452]

Old Fuff, you have written several volumes in this forum. Just wish that info had an index and a table of contents.

If you ever do write a book, I wanna buy a copy.

salty.

P.S.,

You ain't too bad of a picture taker either.

sd.
.

[Old Fuff]

Well try as I can, I haven't been able to catch up with Tuner ... :neener: :D :D

I presume you are refering to some pictures of .45 hammers I posted on another thread. I can do much better If I learn how to upload them ... :banghead: :D :D