Taper Crimps for 9mm & 45 ACP

If taper crimp is the way these cartridges should be finished, then why do not all the dies come with a taper crimp die instead of a roll crimp.

Why is a roll crimp die provided at all?

If a "factory crimp" is ideal, then why don't all the die makers just produce this die with each set and be done with it?

Taper crimps are for autos, roll crimps are for revolvers. Generally speaking of course.

If you are referring to the Lee factory crimp it is not ideal in my opinion, and not necessary at all.

The bullet seating die will roll crimp if set too far down, on 9mm, but that's not what you're supposed to do - I found this out the hard way! :rolleyes: My Lee Factory Crimp Die works great.

Some people actually fire .45ACP's through revolvers; ergo, the roll crimp option. I like the Lee FCD, also.

My understanding is that the Lee FCD is a taper crimp die that happens to have a carbide sizer on it. Am I smoking crack or what, because that is what my instructions say...

True, the Lee Carbide Factory Crimp die does have a carbide ring in it, which ensures the completed round is to factory spec. In the case of 9-mm-Luger, the carbide insert is full length, as the 9-mm Luger case is actually tapered. Mine has earned its cost by resizing a 300-round batch of processed and primed oversized cases into which the bullets slipped easily.

I use the Lee Factory crimp on my .45 ACP and 10MM loads. Works great.

Do all of you have a problem with bullet pull when seating 9mm and .45 ACP? I still have found no reason to crimp my 9mm and .45 ACP when seating bullets. I use Lee dies set up on a Lee turret press. When I make a mistake (Which is seldom [What is that bullet puller doing under my bench?]), it takes about three to four hard whacks to remove the bullet from the cases. I see no reason to crimp these calibers. Other then the stock reasons...Why? Are some of you having problems keeping the bullets in the case or going deeper in the case during recoil. I have checked [with a set of calipers] my rounds after several firings and have seen no OAL changes.

Bushmaster: You don't crimp to prevent setback. you crimp to remove the bell, so the cartridges will chamber reliably. The rounds you mention headspace on the case mouth.

Rockstar...No kidding, "headspace on the case mouth". Well. I'll be damned... I don't open (bell) the cases that much to require crimping.

I was so impressed with the taper crimp dies in the .38 and .45 Star reloaders I sold set up for target competition that when the Star sold for a thousand dollars I wanted a lesser priced press for men who could not afford the Star.

I saw where the C-H company had three position "H" and Auto Champ presses and I convinced the owner to make them for me in 4 positions so there was room for a taper crip die. When he did that for me then I sold the heck out of both of them and heck is a take off of the C-H founders name Charlie Heckman.

I have a web site for Star and C-H Auto Champ reloader owners as I was the Dealer and Reconditioning center for both of them.. The site is for owners of both presses to be helpful to each other and new owners of presses gained at auctions. PM me for the site.

Taper crimp dies to me are for target loads and target bullets. Higher power cartridges need roll crimps for some gun powders to burn properly.

In a progressive reloader booklet I wrote to keep the reloader owners out of trouble in their selection of components I also discuss how to adjust a Taper Crimp die properly and I feel they are a great assist to target accuracy.

Paul 'Fitz' Jones

QUOTE 'I also discuss how to adjust a Taper Crimp die properly and I feel they are a great assist to target accuracy."

Could you explain how to adjust a taper crimp properly?