Breakfree CLP Good and Bad

I like the product but every can I have bought so far runs out of pressure before it runs out of the stuff itself.

The sprey strength sucks and turns into a frustrating drip half way through the can :mad:

Any of you have the same experience?

Nik

I have actually, thats why I use the non pressurised plastic bottle kind.

The first can I had got accidently discharged. But I like the stuff itself.

I had the same luck with the pressurized can, so I bought a pint bottle pump-spray instead because CLP is great stuff. Good cleaner and excellent lube and rust preventitive. ;)

TC

bottle pump-spray
Hmmm, now that's a good idea...I'll find one, cut open the old breakfree cans, and fill it up.

Nik

It sort of goes without saying, (except for me, in retrospect) but be really cautious doing that. If you get any in your eyes, you'll be spending a lot of quality time with your head in the sink flushing your eyeballs.

Another cautionary notice: Don't set the can down with the little plastic straw on it next to your beer... :barf: :barf: :barf:

"Hmmm, now that's a good idea...I'll find one, cut open the old breakfree cans, and fill it up."

A bit more expensive but a much safer way of doing it.

http://botac.com/breaklubpres2.html

Be careful about the bottle you use. We use it frequently in the AF, but the bottles leak, and the stuff is all over the outside of the bottle. This might be partly because it gets stuffed into toolboxes, and sits sideways alot. The bottles in the backshop were much better, but still oily. I'm not sure what kind would be best for the stuff.

Denny Hansen passed along a tip to me a long time ago. Itty Bitty Tobasco Bottles. These are handy, and don't leak. In fact I use the empty dark Lea & Perrins Worcester bottles to hold lubes for some applications.

My favorite,empty Zippo Lighter fluid tins. Pop the top off with a screwdriver, refill with lube, "snap" the cap back down. Slap a label on tin "Lube" and done.

The Tobasco/ Lea & Perrins are tough and I have yet to break one. The Zippo tins are handy, and one can "drop" or "squirt" depending on needs. The Sun and UV rays do not break these down like plastic, and the tins don't burst if stuff if piled on top of, stepped on .

I use the 16 oz bottles.

Midway has them for $10.00 and change. I always store the CLP upright and take the lube to the range in a 2 OZ oiler bottle with a 2 inch capilary tube. Some plastic wrap or teflon tape around the threads may reduce seepage.

TC

When I was an Army Armorer, I got it in gallon jugs. I filled the little bottles in the cleaning kits from there, had a plain old small pump oil can for shop use, and carried the small 'range bag' sized civilian bottle in my field armorer kit. I use the small bottles at home and the shop now. Haven't seen the gallon bottles for a while. ;)

Leftover HDPE bottles from anti-fungal agents also clean up well and make a great range bag CLP bottle.

All great tips! I'll be putting them to use. Thanks :)

Nik

We used to use the gallon jugs when we would punch the gun tubes on the tanks. Cleaning the chamber took on new meaning since I had to reach in upto my shoulder to touch the rifling. Clp is a great rust preventor as well. I did a little test with Militec, WD-40 and CLP to see what worked better. CLP hands down. Here are the pictures, they stayed in the water for 5 days. One nail was left un coated as a control.

Medicine bottles with the dropper lids.
Works great. I keep one with Mobil 1 in it for general lube needs and another one with "Ogre CLP" for cleaning metal.

Impressive test! I've been a fan of miltek, mostly the grease. Your test puts CLP in a much higher place in my mind than it had been till now.
Thanks for taking the time to post the pics.

Nik

Brownell's did a rust preventative test (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/NewsletterArchive.aspx?p=0&t=1&i=503) a while back. Some of the results were a little surprising to me, e.g., the last one.

Meanwhile, I've used Breakfree for years and it has worked perfectly. I apply it very sparingly, no spray bottles or such, just a drop or two here and there. I wipe the large parts and surfaces with a patch that has a few (3-5) drops of CLP on it.

I seem to recall Gun Tests Magazine doing a test on some cleaners/lubricants/rust inhibitors. If I remember right, Breakfree CLP won hands down. I have used it for many years in its regular black plastic bottle. I guess the nozzle of the spray can gets clogged on the silicone or silica (whatever) that is floating in suspension in the Breakfree. I have tried to use this stuff out of a bottle with needle end but the needle always gets clogged pretty quickly. Still it is great stuff for firearms.


Best regards,
Glenn B

I've tried a number of different products and I keep coming back to CLP. It does not clean as well as the "best" cleaners, but it cleans pretty darn good. It does not get things as slick as a nice gob of grease, but it gets things pretty slick. It does not eat metal or the gun's finish, so I can hose the gun down and let it sit for a while without worry. If I put too much on it just gets blown out of the gun as I'm shooting compared to most stuff that I have used that gunks up the works if over applied.

Like Infidel, I don't spray anymore. It seems to get everywhere, even with a rag directly in front of the can. I had to wipe the screen of my Blackberry a while back due to overspray. Yea I know, it's my fault.

I use it quite a bit. My wife can't stand the smell of the stuff!!!!! I've been run out of my study for a small spray of Break Free.

I liked that Brownell's test - a picture is certainly worth 1,000 words, and often has more credibility. I feel very comfortable that I coat my carry gun with RIG every few days, in addition to the normal FP-10 that I use when I clean the gun.

What I'd like to see is a test involving the best of the old (CLP, Eezox, etc.) with some of the newer & "better" CLP-type stuff (FP-10, Slip 2000, CorrosionX, etc.).

I use it as follows:

When I'm done at the range, I run a patch with some CLP on down the barrel, (or just put a few drops drop the barrel) and put a few drops in the action.

I clean it the next day with Hoppe's or Birchwood-Casey and lube them with CLP. Giving the CLP a day or so to break down the gunk, really makes the cleaning much easier. ;) ;) (That's how/why I rotate the HD shotguns, and both are Mossberg 500's.)

Before the next trip to the range, that day I run a lightly CLP'd patch or two down the barrel (OMG I thought I cleaned this thing !!!).

About every three-four months. Everything in the safe gets a lightly CLP'd patch down the barrel and all the metal gets a lightly CLP'd cloth wipe down.

CLP is okay to good cleaner if you give it time to work. It's a great lube, use just have to use small amount/a light coating. That's why I never liked the aerosol spray, to hard to control the quantity dispensed.

entrophy, I've got about fifeteen of the little bottles, both the black breakfree ones and the clear twist-to-open kind. But I like sm's idea of the tabasco bottles and light fluid cans, then i can buy bulk rather than the 4 oz bottles.

CLP is okay to good cleaner if you give it time to work.

No kidding! I do the wipe till they come out clean method so I was surprised when I would go to relube in several weeks/months and get more black on the patches.

I took an used up bottle of Cavicide home from work that I will try. I work at a hospital and we use it all the time. The used up bottles just get thrown away. So if it breaks I should be able to replace it easily. However, it's pretty durable and very rarely leaks. It nozzle can be turned to off, mist, or stream.
It's the bottle with the spray nozzle at the very front in this pic...
http://store1.yimg.com/I/allergybegone_1841_14033157

Nik

Leave a little in the bottom, and your guns will be 99.9999% germ-free, as well as clean! :p

That bottle is similar to the 16 spray bottle of CLP.

I also use CLP in the little stopwatch-looking oiler I got with my Yugo SKS. It's handy right on the belt at the range, and precise enough for field cleaning or lubing. ;)

I made sure I washed it out very very well - that stuff is so strong I was afraid it might hurt the finish.

Nik

I've used CLP since I got interested in firearms. I got the free sample of Militec-1 from Militec (duh) about 2 years ago. I still have some left, even though the sample is only 1 ounce. I honestly can't tell a difference in the performance of the Militec vs. the CLP, but I do have to say that I like the smell of the Militec better :scrutiny: I think it just makes me feel more 733T since fewer people use it :uhoh:


Does anyone else have problems with CLP foaming up really bad? It just seems that it would be more effective if it didn't foam so much, especially because the pump bottle doesn't have a foaming problem and therefore delivers a more concentrated burst of the product.

My gunsmith says it is the best and he is a picky SOB so i will second his choice,

Militec does smell very good!

Well, that's another topic for ya...which one smells the best?

I vote Militec.

Nik

Denny Hansen -itty Bitty Tobasco bottles..

Zippo Lighter tins - Steve. ( me)

:p

I use Militec as a lube but it has little or no rust preventive value. For that I will use CLP. I got some CLP bore cleaner in a bottle but its not that effective. Little better then regular CLP. The smell is tough but I'm used to it.
At least it doesn't burn when it gets in a cut like the old RBC did.

TC

It sort of goes without saying, (except for me, in retrospect) but be really cautious doing that. If you get any in your eyes, you'll be spending a lot of quality time with your head in the sink flushing your eyeballs.

Been there. Done that. Sucks big time.

No kidding! I do the wipe till they come out clean method so I was surprised when I would go to relube in several weeks/months and get more black on the patches. This is probably due to the fact that the CLP is still cleaning (being oil based as opposed to something like Hoppes that would dry up fast). I was told, by a few old time gun smiths, that tiny, microscopic, expansion cracks form in gun barrels and actions weep out more gunk, and fouling days to weeks after being cleaned. That is why it used to be recommended to clean the gun the day you shoot it, then a few days to a week later when not shot again in that time. I think that is also why the sonic cleaners are so effective, they get it all out.

I do not know if this is the case with the most modern steel now used in some firearms, but I'll bet it still happens.

best regards,
Glenn B