April 17, 2005, 10:17 PM
Is pyrodex really as crappy as people say it is? I noticed at my local shop that pyrodex was $14.99 and Triple7 was $22.99. Is it worth it to go with the more expensive stuff? I am just shooting(plinking) single shot pistols and planning on buying a rifle too. Thanks

If you enjoyed reading about "Pyrodex" here in archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join today for the full version!
April 17, 2005, 10:58 PM
I've not had the problems with P'dex that has been reported by others. Then, again, I'm anal about cleaning after shooting and haven't noticed that much difference.

After shooting, clean once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month forever. I seldom get out of the once a day mode. :D


April 18, 2005, 02:31 AM
It's what I use. Some of the other (more expensive) powders have been reported contributing to crud rings - which take work to remove and make loading difficult.

April 18, 2005, 07:21 AM
I've used Pyrodex pellets in my Remington inline for 5 years now without any problems. I've never seen a reason to switch to any of the alternatives. I only fire 20-30 shots through that gun a year though. Once I'm done, I clean the gun throroughly and put it away till the next season.

That gun does not like Pyrodex powder though. It hangfires every time.


April 21, 2005, 04:03 AM

If you've got a "take off" barrel, then when you're done shooting, take it off, fill the bathtub with hot water and dish soap, scrub, rinse, scrub again, rinse, then air dry, oil, re-install - and put her to bed.

I'm using it in my 45-110 Shilo Sharps - and have NOTHING but problems! OH, it shoots great, but the clean-up is a bi*ch! I can't put the barrel in hot water and I haven't found a way to suck up hot water and soap into the bore to do the cleaning - Sharps sights are a mite expensive. So, I clean, oil, clean again, oil, CLEAN again, OIL and come home 6 months later to RUST in the bore.

I'm trying VCI "bore tubes" this time - I'll let you know if they work.

Gentle winds,

April 21, 2005, 01:18 PM
I've been using Pyrodex in my C&B revolvers, .45 S&W reloads, and inline rifle for several years now. Choice was mostly by default, as genuine BP is tough to find around here anymore. IMO, most of the former sources dried up due to the ever-more-onerous regulations and associated paperwork on sales, storage, etc., when it was reclassified.

Pyrodex I can get at Wally World. BP means a fifty-mile drive (one way) and more bureaucratic fooraw than I care to deal with.

Anyway, I haven't had any more cleaning hassles with it than I did with BP. Same drill, same mess. Didn't have a chronograph back then, so I can't really say that I've noticed any difference in performance. Haven't had any ignition problems with standard #10 or #11 caps, either.

FWIW, the 30 gr. pellets and Buffalo conicals give me more consistent accuracy and closer correlation of POA/POI in a couple of my C&B revolvers than RBs and flask-metered charges.

April 21, 2005, 03:21 PM
I have used a fair amount of Pyrodex RS in a rifle and steadily use Pyrodex P in a revolver. The only negative I can see is that it's harder to set off than black powder and more prone to hang fires if you don't have all the oil out of the chambers. It fouls less or at least slower than black powder, produces more energy than Goex and about the same as Swiss fffg. We recently found a can of Pyrodex P that had been stored under very bad conditions for about 25 years. It produced low shot to shot variation over the chronograph at velocities below the new lots we have been using.

As to cleaning. I clean the same way regardless of the propellant. I don't know if one type is more or less prone to cause rust than any of the others.

April 24, 2005, 02:25 PM
tahnk you all for your opinions. i justr bought a pound of RS, giving it a tes!

If you enjoyed reading about "Pyrodex" here in archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join today for the full version!