[DelayedReaction]

Hey all,

I was cleaning my 1911 and I noticed a problem with the thumb safety. The safety rotates too far upward when pushing it into the safe position, and as a result the plunger pushes out and gets trapped underneath the safety itself. This makes it impossible to put the safety into the fire position without using something to depress the plunger first. I've fired several thousand rounds through the gun, and haven't noticed anything like this until today. I removed and inspected the safety, and there doesn't seem to be any warping or other problems.

What do you think?

[Onmilo]

Replace the thumb safety, it is out of specification.

[DelayedReaction]

Even though it was working fine for several thousand rounds? I'm just wondering if it's the thumb safety or whatever interfaces with it that could be the problem.

[DnPRK]

Is the plunger tube loose?

[DelayedReaction]

Nope. The plunger tube is solid.

[Old Fuff]

Does this happen when the slide is assembled to the frame, not assembled, or either way?

[DelayedReaction]

Both.

[Old Fuff]

Is there any chance that in the process of cleaning you removed the slide stop/safety plunger & spring assembly and put it back together backwards? The plunger with the reduced end should go forward toward the slide stop.

Usually this condition is caused by a loose plunger tube, that allows the back plunger to slip under the thumbpice or "paddle" on the safety. This blocks the safety into the "on" position.

The notch in the slide should prevent the safety from moving too high. If the safety was new or recently installed I would understand what might be causing the problem. But if it has been in use for some time without giving any trouble that would be entirely different.

[DelayedReaction]

I double checked, and it turns out the plunger tube is loose. I think it slid in the last time I checked, which would explain why I didn't see it.

How can I tighten things up?

[Old Fuff]

It depends on how it was fastened in the first place, and what make and model pistol you have.

The right way to fasten it is to countersink the two little holes inside of the frame that the tube's two pins go into. Then using a special tool rivet the ends of the two pins.

However in this day of cost-cutting, the tube is often made by using investment casting or MIM technology and the pins are secured using some kind of adhesive or "loc-tite."

You could try re-staking the pins (if they were ever staked in the first place) but if this pistol is ever used/carried as a weapon I'd suggest you get a new plunger tube and assemble it correctly from scratch.

Because of its (often overlooked) importance I have silver-soldered the tube to the frame. After that it doesn't loosen or come off.

Your experience should clearly show what can happen when this job isn't done as Browning specified. You can also get a little bit of extra insurance by having a grip on the left side that has a little lip at the top to partly enclose and support the tube and keep it from backing out.

This was yet another one of Browning's innovations that is sometimes ignored.

[DelayedReaction]

The handgun is a Springfield Armory MilSpec 1911. Is this something that I can feasibly do myself (I have a pretty reasonable amount of experience with machining, and have done all the work on my handgun thus far)? Are there any guides to performing such a procedure?

[Old Fuff]

Given your background, I think you probably have the skill. Or at least the ability to learn what you need to know.

1. Go to: www.brownells.com and order a copy of a book: "The Colt .45 Automatic - A Shop Manual; (Book 1 and 2)" by Jerry Kuhnhausen.

2. Also order a copy of Brownells' regular catalog. They are "the" source for parts, accessories, and tools jigs & fixtures specific to the 1911 pistol (as well as many other firearms).

Between them you should be able to learn the "what and how" when it comes to working on your pistol. The big question will be, "do you want to invest the money buying specialized tooling to perform relatively few jobs?"

Field strip your Springfield MilSpec and under strong light use a magnifying glass to inspect the top of the magazine well on the left side about 3/16" down. You should notice two holes with what appears to be a pin in each one that is flush with the well's surface. The holes should be slightly countersunk, and the end of the pins should show evidence of having been riveted or staked. If the holes are not countersunk, or the pins don't show any sign of having been staked you should know what your problem is. Those two "pins" are the posts on the plunger tube that hold it to the frame.

If you decide to do your own work, Brownells will have the necessary tools to countersink the holes (not too easy given where they are) and stake a new tube in place. Generally speaking a tube is only good for one staking unless you are very lucky.

You're other options would be to use an adhesive (something that I don't recommend) or a combination of an adhesive and staking (which is better then staking alone, but not by much) or low-temp silver soldering the tube (which may require refinishing the frame and makes replacement difficult, but the tube won't ever loosen if the job's done right).

I am aware of other Springfield MilSpec's that developed loose plunger tubes, although the problem is not common to one single maker. This is something that could get a man killed under the wrong circumstances, and the manufacturers should pay a lot better attention to it then they do. But it would seem that your life isn't worth the $$$ it would cost to do the job right. :cuss:

That's one reason I do my own work, and pay close attention to the small but important details rather then worry about having this or that gadget or gimmick. :scrutiny:

[DelayedReaction]

The tooling looks like a specially ground locking wrench with a flat bottom, a small wire to fit inside the plunger tube, and a bit of plastic with a cut into it to spread out the pressure. I think I might just try and save my money, buy the tooling myself, and do the job right.

Out of curiosity, what's the best way to remove the plunger tube?

[Onmilo]

Open the staking with a round point Cratex tip.
Place the frame in a padded vise with the plunger side facing you.
Run a bit of heavy copper wire through the plunger orifice.
Tighten the wire with a set of pliers, I use a set of locking needle nose if that matters.
With a quick snap pull the plunger tube straight away from the frame.
Easy as pie, usually.

[Old Fuff]

DelayedReaction:

A hint ... :uhoh:

Buy the manual first. Then decide on how you are going to do the job, and with what kind of tool(s).

Second hint...

Are you sure you still want to use a part that has already failed?

[DelayedReaction]

Whoops. By "Do the job right" I meant use a new part.

Yeah, I'm getting the books before I do anything with this. I just figured I'd ask and see if anyone had any suggestions.