slide rail lubrication: oil vs. grease


March 19, 2003, 11:12 PM
Hi Guys,

What does everyone use to lubricate their auto slide rails? I usually use Break Free that I use for the rest of the pistol. Lately, I've been using RIG +p grease on the rails because it seems to stick there better.

If you enjoyed reading about "slide rail lubrication: oil vs. grease" here in archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join today for the full version!
March 19, 2003, 11:17 PM
Have been using Break-Free CLP. Tonight, tried Tetra Lubricant, so we will see!!!!

Duke of Lawnchair
March 19, 2003, 11:19 PM
I stick with the oils.

Either one of the following that happens to be closest to me at the time:
Breakfree CLP

March 19, 2003, 11:24 PM
I think grease is superior to oil for reducing wear. As for lubrication they're both good but grease stays on.

March 19, 2003, 11:39 PM
anyone ever use white lithium grease they use in cars?
if it's good for high temp application in cars.. probably be okay in guns.

March 19, 2003, 11:54 PM
I use a light coat of grease, stays on longer. Militec makes a grease now. I got a free sample from them, ordered off their website.

March 20, 2003, 12:10 AM
I use TW25B on the Rails and have been pleased with it. I use Breakfree CLP on everything else.

March 20, 2003, 12:19 AM
FP-10, period.

Some of my guns have been treated with Moly-Fusion, and IMO, that combined with FP-10 post treatment is as good as the lube solution gets!

March 20, 2003, 12:20 AM
I've been using grease on the rails for about a year now. In that time, I've had perfect function from ALL my guns. Is it the guns or the grease? I'm really not sure, but why mess w/ something that works.

March 20, 2003, 12:20 AM
How can you use both? I think the oil would disolve the grease.

March 20, 2003, 12:22 AM
Have used grease, mostly use Break Free. Everybody speaks so highly of FP-10, I may just have to pick some up to try.

March 20, 2003, 12:33 AM
Grease on the internals. it stays there and doesn't evaporate, also doesn't pick up as much dust/lint.

Tetra white lithium grease also works well.

March 20, 2003, 12:45 AM the smell.

March 20, 2003, 01:52 AM

Don't mix. Use one or the other. Grease on the rails and certain internal parts and oil on the barrel.

March 20, 2003, 01:54 AM
I use Breakfree CLP for everything from cleaning to lubrication. I've never really tired/thought about using grease until now..... may just have to pick some up for the internals.

March 20, 2003, 03:32 AM
I was taught to grease the fast-moving parts and oil the slow moving parts. It's not like the piston in a chamber on an engine. The oil's not trapped, and will "fling". Grease will last longer, but must be used sparingly so as not to pick up dirt too easily.

March 20, 2003, 03:45 AM
FP10 is all I use...

March 20, 2003, 10:59 AM
I use grease on the rails and FP-10 on everything else. Works great for me.

March 20, 2003, 11:08 AM
I recently switched to grease for the slide rails on all my semi-autos. Tetra and, lately, Wilson. I use Hoppe's #9 for bore-cleaning and Breakfree CLP for cleaning the rest, a couple of gun oils for trigger, etc. My feeling is that grease is better for carry and home defense weapons because it's effective longer--at least that's my impression; maybe oil would be okay for a range gun. I even use grease now, though, on the rails of my Beretta Neos. I also use it for my rifles.

March 20, 2003, 12:50 PM
Grease on the rails and barrels of my pistols, oil for everything else.

March 20, 2003, 02:23 PM
You can indeed use both as long as you don't go heavy on the oil.

For example, I typically apply a light coat of "oil" (actually either CLP or Eezox) to all surfaces. Right before reassembly, I'll use a dry Q-tip and/or cotton patch to wipe any excess off the frame and slide rails. I then apply a small amount of the grease to the rails.

I have more faith in a uniform "oil" layer as a rust preventative, and I presume it can only enhance the lubricity provided by the grease.

March 20, 2003, 05:31 PM
Tetra grease on rails and trigger. Rem oil down the pipe and other places.

I used LSA for years and it seemed to be excellent back in the day. I've also used various high quality gun oils for the years and they all worked fine everywhere in the gun they were applied. The grease just doesn't seem to weep and spread like some of the oils. Like others said, it stays where you put it.

March 20, 2003, 09:29 PM
Tetra on slide and barrell and kroil everywhere else it's needed.

March 20, 2003, 10:13 PM
I used to use grease on the rails of my guns. But one night during winter, I accidentally left my range bag w/ my gun in it inside my car trunk overnight. When I took it out the next day, and began to rack the slide, the slide moves in slow motion because the grease was frozen :(. Since then, I only use FP10 on my guns. ' works great, doesn't freeze and sweet smelling too!

March 20, 2003, 11:33 PM
Am I the only guy left that uses Hoppe's #9 oil? What is this FP-10, and where can I get some?

Mikey D...

March 20, 2003, 11:52 PM
FP10, great stuff... think of it as a vast improvement over CLP.

Cleans, lubricates and protects. It's all I use on my handguns. I don't use another cleaner unless I've been shooting lead bullets.

March 21, 2003, 02:15 AM
IIRC, BreakFree CLP can gum up when mixed with other lubricants. I'm not sure about that, though...?

I use CLP on everything except my KelTec. The hammer face requires grease, so I've been using it on the slide rails, too, with good results. LubriMatic white lithium grease, $2.00 per tube from Lowes, BTW.

I'll probably go back to CLP for the rails in the fall/winter, as my P11 is frequently exposed to low temperatures and grease can fail under those conditions, as mentioned.

March 21, 2003, 02:51 AM
I shoot at least 500 rounds out of each of my CZ's every week. When I used BreakFree CLP to oil the slides, there wasn' any oil left on the slides when I was finished. But there was a little more wear each time, even in the Satin Nickel 75B.

Then I watched the Wilson Combat video on care and cleaning the CZ 75. For the slide, locking lugs and upper sear, Bill Wilson demonstrated that a reasonably thick coat of gun grease was the order of the day. I followed his advice and have used Tetra Gun Grease on those parts since then. And Tetra lubricating oil on the pins and springs and other moving parts. Everything runs smooth. The grease is still visible at the end of the day, and my guns never fail to function. And absolutely no additional wear.

So the answer for me, and Bill Wilson, is grease. Use whatever works for you.

March 21, 2003, 10:09 AM
Thanks for that. I have been reading this thread wondering about my cz. I had the same symptoms you had and generally run my cz toward the dry side anyways. I have a good amount of wear already.

I'm gonna try some grease now. Some "friend" of mine told me not to oil the rails on a cz and I believed him so I oiled lightly.

Where can I get a copy of the video you mention?

Thanks -bevr

March 21, 2003, 10:56 AM
I guess I'm one of those oddballs. I use Brian Eno's slide glide. Kind of a grease, kind of not. But it's great on slides and softens the recoil a bit. On every pistol I've used it on, no wear showing. I highly recommend it and it doesn't dry out or run off.

March 21, 2003, 11:19 AM
Grease. Watch-Six

March 21, 2003, 12:05 PM
Both. Discovered Brownell's "Action Lube Plus" a moly based grease recently.
Breakfree CLP for general cleaning and lubing. Action Lube Plus on rails w/a drop or two of Breakfree and soak up excess.
I also use ALP on the engagement surfaces of sears, sear notches and faces of striker/trigger engagement surfaces on Glocks. Smooths things out nicely. Makes trigger pull feel lighter.

March 21, 2003, 12:25 PM
Much virtual ink has been spilt on the oil vs. grease debate at The engineers in the bunch start throwing around citations to groups like the National Lubrication and Grease Institute. George Fennell, the president of the company that makes FP-10, is a frequent poster there. He seems like a nice guy who knows more than I ever want to know about grease and oil. He periodically sends out out free samples of FP-10 for forum participants to try. Here's a link to a very informative thread:

Personally, I'm just a beginning shooter and I will stick with Brian Enos's Slide Glide #1 for a while to see how it works ( I only use the gun at an outdoor range here in Texas, so there's no problem with grease getting too thick in the cold. Those pro IPSC shooters shoot a HELL of a lot, and many of them swear by Slide Glide. I have to hide my use of grease from my pistol instructor and gun-nut best friend, they think anyone who uses grease on an autopistol is an idiot.

I suspect that the truth is that both oil and grease will do the job in your average gun, as long as you use the right types.

March 21, 2003, 01:56 PM
I use a Moly based automotive grease on slide rails. It's slicker than owl crap and runs $2.00 for a 1 lb. can.

March 21, 2003, 05:41 PM
Wilsons' grease on the rails and locking lugs of my 1911, FP10 everywhere else. I've got some of that TW-25B grease coming in the mail to try in place of the Wilson grease.

March 21, 2003, 05:56 PM
I was raised on gun oil, I like the smell of it, and will only use it on my auto loading pistols . I use Riggs on the friction areas of my O/U shotguns.

August 1, 2008, 02:10 AM
Birdsong coating + Tetra oil buffed dry.

August 1, 2008, 05:27 AM
I used Tetra Grease for about 10 years and recently switched to Slide Glide.

I use oil only as a rust preventative.

But, I think it depends a lot on where you live. I work in (arguably) the two hottest cities in North America, Lake Havasu City, Az., and Bullhead City, Az., where summer temps frequently top 120. Winter temps rarely crack freezing. When they do the plumbers wear ear-to-ear smiles.

We have no humidity so rust prevention is not an issue. Oil will run out of your gun and stain you clothes and leather - not to mention splatter all over your clothes and shooting glasses.

I wipe my guns with CLP and then wipe them dry. I lube my guns with Slide Glide (just ran into one earlier tonight that was still in Tetra Grease).

When I lived in Idaho it was eight months of CLP and four months of Tetra Grease.

In a 1911 I lube the trigger bar, disconnector and sear, hammer faces, safety contact surfaces, pins and all other metal-to-metal surfaces with grease. Oil is just a corrosion preventative.

The most important part about lubing with grease is to keep it light. Never put more lube on a part than what it needs to function properly.

August 1, 2008, 09:31 AM
I use Hoppe's oil. I've never owned a pistol that malfunctioned because of my cleaning and maintenance routine, which is to simply clean after every range session, light oil on the barrel and a drop of oil on each rail.

I know some shooter that collect greases/oils like baseball cards... I suppose if you shoot in an "extreme environment" and don't clean your guns, maybe this is more important?

Heck, what do I know. I stick with what has worked for me for years. Cheap, simple, effective.

August 1, 2008, 10:13 AM
Moly grease from Autozone for my 1911. CLP for my Glock.

August 1, 2008, 10:49 AM
I swear by Mobil 1 Synthetic grease. It takes only a little, and wears forever.

August 1, 2008, 11:04 AM
Somewhere, it may have been, I read you should use GREASE on a Kel-Tec. I use Militec-1.

Gun Slinger
August 1, 2008, 11:08 AM
Mobil 1 20w50 Synthetic.

After trying all the gun specific oils, this is the best lubricant for guns that I have ever used. Doesn't burn off, makes cleanup a breeze and is very smooth.

August 1, 2008, 11:44 AM
So far I have only used FP-10 anywhere lubrication is needed, including the slide, locking blocks, trigger mechanism, etc. I also use it for cleaning everywhere, including the bore. I find it excellent for all those, and it is especially good on stainless steel. I have some Rugers where the trigger improved a great deal after simply lubing the mechanism parts with FP-10.

BUT, after reading all this, and seeing how many of my guns are bone dry after a month or two without lubrication, I am inclined to try grease in some of the areas with looser tolerances, like the slide to frame rail fit on most handguns. I think the oil works fine when the tolerance is really tight, held in place by surface tension.

I'm also inclined to start using T-9 as my primary outside rust protectant, but that's getting slightly off topic.

August 1, 2008, 12:25 PM
slide glide until it runs out. i'm tempted to use all the chassis lube i have in the garage. smells and looks the same. :shrug:

Steve C
August 1, 2008, 12:25 PM
I was always told you oil pistols and grease rifles. If I want lubricant to stay on the rails I use Gunslick, a little bit will do you.

August 1, 2008, 12:50 PM
An old thread which could use an update: George Fennell, the inventor of the original FP-10 was bought out and now the new FP-10 is different. Fennell now makes Weapons Shield which he says is an improvement over the old (phenomenal) FP-10. So if you like FP-10 back in the day, you should get Weapons Shield.

Oh and he is a tribologist and even though he makes a grease, he recommends the oil on the rails for reasons I am too lazy to type right now. You could ask him though. I know he lurks over at TFL and maybe even here now.

August 1, 2008, 01:15 PM
I used tetra grease in my AR-15 for a long time, till one year I went bunny hunting in sub zero weather, gun worked fine but the grease started making the gun very stiff, now I use CLP when it's cold out.
I have had good results when it's hot though.

I use coper anti-seize compound on the slide rails on my Pistols most of the time.
(Same stuff that Glocks come with)

August 1, 2008, 04:48 PM
i haven't used oil to lube anything in a long time other than my car. i have been using high temp lithium grease for the longest time, on handguns, ar, ak, shotgun etc. i am currently extensively experimenting with the wilson combat grease just because it is in a syringe that makes applying so much easier and faster.

oil splatters, migrates, and is just overall nasty to work with. grease stays put where you apply it, and it doesnt run, smoke, and it wipes right off. and a little bit of grease goes a long way you don't need much.

August 1, 2008, 04:55 PM
Old thread, but whatever...

The frame rails of my pistols get plain NAPA lithium grease. It stays put.

Joe Demko
August 1, 2008, 05:13 PM
I use white lithium grease on rails and lugs. Trigger mechanisms get a dry film lube. Oil elsewhere.

August 2, 2008, 12:55 AM
I work for the military, so CLP is plentiful, every gun part gets annointed with it...on self-loaders, I apply hi-temp moly wheel bearing grease (a can of which will last 5-10yrs) to parts subject to high loads, except cold weather...grease gets sticky at lower temps., slowing things down.....then, it's just CLP...our cold weather down here might be your fine spring day, FYI....

August 2, 2008, 01:07 AM
mobil 1 motor oil on every part of every weapon i own. 1911's, ar15's, rem1100's, 1022's, sks's, and a few more.

August 2, 2008, 01:18 PM
I alternate between grease, and gun butter.

August 4, 2008, 02:05 AM
I use tetra oil and add tetra grease to the frame sections that the slide rides on very slick!:)

August 4, 2008, 03:11 AM
Ditto on using Tetra for the slide and barrel; FP10 for the internals. It's worked well for me for years.

The Bushmaster
August 4, 2008, 10:42 AM
Military artillary red grease. Mil-spec unknown as the label has worn off (wish I'd have written it down). Have had this can for many years. Does not harden or lump up. Seems to stay the same no matter what the temperature and does not melt or seperate.

I use Dexron III for the rest of the moving parts (I own Chevy's).:D

August 4, 2008, 11:04 AM
I agree with greasing heavy moving parts such as the slide.

I also wanted to do a little promoting for my old company :D.

If you guys go to your local IBT (industrial bearing and transmission) or any other industrial supply company (basically anyone with "bearing" in their name) you will come face to face with literal "lubricant experts" and they can get you anything you need for any application cheaper than any "name brand" stuff sold specifically for guns.

August 4, 2008, 11:26 AM
I have never had a problem with CLP, I use it on all my weapons.

Some guys like that high tech aerospace gun grease, but to me that seems like a good way to collect unburnt powder.

August 4, 2008, 01:10 PM
can't beat the TW25 IMO, stays put, doesn't run ...

August 4, 2008, 01:13 PM
I use a touch of STP on my 1911 slide. Works for me.

August 4, 2008, 07:32 PM
Weapon Shield and TW25B.

August 4, 2008, 09:20 PM
Routine Cleaning:
Every surface that gets hot from combustion or friction gets Militec.
I treat the rails, recoil spring and bbl with Militec. The rest gets rem-oil.
I clean the bbl with Hoppes#9 or Shooters Choice, dry it with patches then I apply a very small amount of Militec inside and out.
Rem-oil the rest sparingly.

I also think 5wt Mobil 1 (sparingly) is probably a good general option.

P.S. I often wonder if "Militec" and "Slick 50" contain the same active ingredients.

tiger rag
August 4, 2008, 09:27 PM
Who sells FP10?

August 4, 2008, 09:35 PM
I use "Tetra Gun Grease" works very well on my rails and it was actually reccomended to me by a certified gun smith and it hasn't had a problem. it works very well and doesn't seem to thin out even when in really hot weather and after shooting 400rds. I am convinced that it's one of the best lubes out there.

August 4, 2008, 09:59 PM
Tetra grease on the rails and barrel bushing, Tetra oil on other moving parts (sparingly).

As an aside on cold-weather concerns, I believe it depends on how you carry. If you're uniformed (military or LEO) and you have it in some kind of duty rig, it probably gets darn cold. Depending on just how cold it is, even oil can be a problem.

However, if you are just an ordinary CCW citizen, you probably have it nice and warm in your IWB or pancake holster.

So, I wouldn't worry about grease on the rails getting stiff unless you have to allow the pistol to equalize with ambient temps, and they're below freezing.

(Ask a old-timey professional photographer...most used to have their 35mm cameras cleaned of oil before a cold-weather assignment, so the shutter speeds would be reliable. Not sure if digital cameras have the same problem, or a similar one from frozen batteries. :) )

August 4, 2008, 10:15 PM
I use Mobile 1 on most of my weapons but lately I've been using Weapon Shield. I really like that stuff.

I found that even a light coat of grease attracted much more dust and lint that a light coat of oil and I discontinued using it.

August 4, 2008, 10:45 PM
I use the grease that Wilson Combat sells.

August 5, 2008, 03:14 PM
Tetra grease on my Sig's slide raids. Tetra oil on my Kimber's. Tetra oil on both barrels.

August 5, 2008, 03:45 PM
Both, Tetra grease and G96 oil mixed into a paste and applied with a paintbrush for the best of both worlds. I know you're not supposed to mix them but these two have never given me problems.

August 5, 2008, 04:13 PM
slide rails on my guns get some EZ Break copper grade anti-seize compound. Its an excellent lubricant that resists heat, stays where you put it and lasts a very long time.
Brush it on liberally, then wipe with a paper towel to leave just enough behind. Reapply as needed which doesn't happen too often.

If you've got a Discount Tire Co. or Americas Tire Co. nearby, head on down and ask one of the guys out back if they've got an almost empty bottle of the stuff. There is usually plenty in there for several years of use and you can probably get it for free.
The 'empty' 4oz jar of it I got 7 years ago when I worked there still has enough to keep my guns running smooth.

August 5, 2008, 04:30 PM
Ive been using Weapon Shield and really like it. Im gonna try some TW25B for the rails just for the heck of it.

August 5, 2008, 10:45 PM
A 5 year old post re-ignited? You're kidding me!

February 20, 2009, 01:25 AM
Am I the only guy left that uses Hoppe's #9 oil? What is this FP-10, and where can I get some?
Mikey D...

Five years later and still nobody answered this. :D

February 20, 2009, 08:29 PM
Grease on the rails, oil in the internals.

February 20, 2009, 08:31 PM
Both of my 1911's are pretty tight. With grease they get sluggish. Weaponshield all around for me.

deputy tom
February 20, 2009, 08:35 PM
I use Militec grease on the rails.tom.:cool:

February 20, 2009, 08:53 PM
Mobil 1 Synthetic on all my weapon's lubrication points.

I've used it for years and have no firearms with rust issues. All my weapons cycle and operate flawlessly without any residue or buildup.

February 20, 2009, 09:01 PM
I use Bore Butter, its non toxic and smells good :) i also use it to pack barrels for long term storage... good stuff!

February 20, 2009, 10:07 PM
Used to use the $5.00 to $10.00 little bitty bottles of stuff.

Now I use the drippings from Mobil 1, guns dom't seem to know the difference.

I guess if it's good enough for factory fill on a Corvette its good enough for my arms.

Redneck with a 40
February 20, 2009, 10:13 PM
I use CLP for all lubrication, if its good enough for the Marines, its good enough for me.:)

February 20, 2009, 10:44 PM
If it is a semi auto and you are trusting your life with it why would you use a lubricant that slows the action down(more so with colder temps. In Alaska folks have stripped all the lubricant out of the firing pin areas because a bolt action rifle would not push the pin because of stiff oil. Use light wt oil and keep it clean or someday it will not cycle properly when you really need it to. I would run a gun dry before I used grease anywhere on it. My 2 cents.

February 20, 2009, 11:02 PM
Phil Wood Grease

April 4, 2010, 09:58 AM
I've always and only used Breakfree CLP, but noticed some wear esp. on aluminum frame rails so I picked up some Tetra grease. I dried the CLP off the external barrel, frame and slide rails with a cut up t-shirt, then spread the tiniest amount of grease I could get on those surfaces, so they are barely shiny. Haven't shot the gun yet, but the slide doesn't "feel" as loose when I rack it by hand, so I wonder if I 1) didn't use enough grease or 2) should have used alcohol or some other degreaser to get the CLP off, instead of just wiping dry the surfaces I greased. The packaging on the Tetra grease says to buff the grease into the metal "several times" and to buff it until it's "semi-dry."

Users of both Tetra grease and CLP, any advice? How much on the slide rails (bb sized drop on each rail? Less? More?)

When shooting, how many rounds before wiping off/relubing the greased surfaces? I used to go every 50 - 75 rounds or so before adding a drop of oilt to each slide rail and barrel hood.

April 4, 2010, 10:06 AM
I make my own oils now. I want some thing that deosn't evaporate in a week.
Also I don't want grease thats hard to clean off or turns into grit. It has to be able to be blasted out of the nooks and crannies of my gun with CLP and air.

I find that cleaning with CLP works best. Just have to let the gun air out for a few days before carrying it. Maybe a little bore solvent when needed.

For oil I use STP and ATF mixed 50/50. It stays in place, lubes well, cleans off easy, and deosn't give off that gun stink that gives away the fact I'm carrying.
The STP is that super thick blue bottle engine oil treatment. really sticky. The ATF thins it out nicely.

As for Alaska, that a gun issue. Fudd guns don't like adverse conditions. Chances are the cold is just shrinking the tolerances of the gun too much. Solution: get a better gun. FP's are suposed to be dry or very lightly lubed anyways, unless it's an AR type.

Also wet lubricated dust/grit is alot more slippery than dry dust grit.

Full Metal Jacket
April 4, 2010, 10:50 AM
wilson combat ultimate grease in the syringe is the best i've tried. even better than mill-com, and half the price too.

April 4, 2010, 11:20 AM
Wilson Ultimalube deos rock.

April 4, 2010, 01:14 PM
Every manual I own Kimber ,Colt,Springfield,Browning all say to use oil I think this bunch might know a little something about topic. The Kimber and Browning HP go has far as to say do not use grease.

April 4, 2010, 01:30 PM
I use a minimal amount (thin film) of light grease wherever lubrication is needed on my S&W M&P40, and that's it. The reason is that grease stays put better than any oil (although some oils are far better than others in this regard). Weapon Shield grease works great for this purpose and is a strong corrosion inhibitor even when wiped off (matches or exceeds even Eezox in this regard). Be careful with Militec-1, by the way, because it appears to promote corrosion when simply used as a lubricant. :eek: Another caveat is that weapons with exceptionally tight tolerances and/or full-length slide guides may work better with oil, in which case Weapon Shield CLP works well, too, and stays put for a long time (it's an improved version of the original FP-10--the same guy made them both).

April 4, 2010, 03:21 PM
I prefer Mobil 1 20W50VTWIN.

M1 20W50VTWIN provides excellent lubrication and corrosion resistance and remains long after the longest, hottest range sessions. Good dispersant/detergency makes cleanup a breeze and as an extra benefit, buying a quart of it (a virtual "lifetime supply") won't break the bank. (@ $9-$10 per quart)

Good link, full of information on lots of different synthetic oils if M1 ain't your thing-

April 4, 2010, 03:26 PM
I just use weapons shield.

April 4, 2010, 08:49 PM
wilson combat ultimate grease in the syringe is the best i've tried.

+1, Stories about DW's seizing got me started, now I use it on all my 1911's.

April 4, 2010, 09:00 PM
Grease on the slide and Rem oil or CLP on the inside

April 4, 2010, 09:14 PM
I trust Weapon Shield, it cleans, lubes and protects both my CZ and my FN-9

Smells decent, no heavy petro-odor and is a time-saver, since you don't have undertake more than two steps in cleaning and lubricating your weapon.:)

April 4, 2010, 09:32 PM
As interesting of a poll as this is, it's non-specific as to what type of auto this is about. I don't think that all pistols should use grease nor should all use oil. For example, if you're running a tight 1911 such as a Dan Wesson or Les Baer you don't want to lather it up with grease. I'd run some Militec, FP-10 or Weapon shield on it. On a Sig with a alloy frame? Probably grease like Slide Glide. Glocks? Anybodies guess. I don't think they require much on their rails, but a drop of oil or two.

April 4, 2010, 09:35 PM
Hoppe's #9 oil in the orange bottle, but will have to admit I am experimenting with other products. I do know that regular oil has some things going for it that the silicone and teflon lubes do not. It is all about film strength. If you want a lubricant that has superior film strength you want the (EP) designation. This stands for (extreme pressure) this will be found on most thick industrial gear lubes Like Shell Omala 220 EP Gear lube. Or for the gear heads out there, the 90WT you put in your differentials of your trucks is a EP lube. However thick EP lubricants do not like cold weather, they turn into a thick STP type situation.

Full Metal Jacket
April 4, 2010, 10:10 PM
Hoppe's #9 oil in the orange bottle


April 5, 2010, 01:52 AM

April 5, 2010, 02:14 AM
Fudd guns don't like adverse conditions.
Most "Fudd" guns (improper usage of the term) are based off of military actions.

April 5, 2010, 05:30 AM
I go with a mix of G96 oil and Tetra grease, works great, stays slick through whatever you want to put it through but comes off easily taking most of the dirt with it come clean up time.

April 5, 2010, 04:53 PM

Y R U confused :confused:

Full Metal Jacket
April 5, 2010, 06:31 PM
Tetra grease, works great

tetra is not bad at all. i used this until i tried wilson grease. if money's tight, or you just don't want to spend $$ on "high-end" grease, this is a great way to go. :)

Full Metal Jacket
April 5, 2010, 06:34 PM

Y R U confused

i'm only kidding, my friend. hoppe's orange bottle is what i use to clean my guns, and works ok for lubing polymers (although it runs a lot).

however, to maximize lubricity, and reduce wear on 1911's, grease it the way to go :)

April 5, 2010, 11:52 PM

April 6, 2010, 12:26 AM
For a couple of years I've been using a grease on the rails/barrel, nano-oil on the trigger group, and a good oil [FP10 or EWL] on everything else. Takes more time but it's time spent fooling with a pistol, which doesn't count!

Full Metal Jacket
April 6, 2010, 01:04 AM

isn't that fuel injector cleaner? :eek:

April 6, 2010, 03:15 AM
If it's not, I'm in a heap of trouble! Put some in yesterday. I've had friends who use Motor Honey, Mobile 1, and mixtures of a number of things from auto supply! Don't remember any of them having problems with premature wear!?!

April 6, 2010, 07:10 AM
Fp-10 ..

Wayne G
April 6, 2010, 08:38 AM
I use Tetra Gun Grease on the rails and the attachment lugs on the frame. I apply a small amount with a very small (3/0) artist brush and it stays in place and does not migrate.

My lubrication philosophy is to use grease on all sliding friction points and Gun Butter on all rotating friction points.

April 6, 2010, 11:53 AM
tetra is not bad at all. i used this until i tried wilson grease. if money's tight, or you just don't want to spend $$ on "high-end" grease, this is a great way to go.

Tetra is pretty good by itself but it's awesome when juiced up a bit with G96, you basically have a high end product at that point but without the high end price.

April 6, 2010, 02:34 PM
breakfree CLP on everything...occassionally hoppes #9 cleaning barrels out good...99% of the time just Breakfree. My guns are shot and serviced regularly...too regularly to see any upside to grease IMHO

April 6, 2010, 03:32 PM
any body out there know if you can still get RIG?

I've been nursing a tube for a long time and am nearly out.

April 6, 2010, 08:36 PM
I use Hoppe's Elite Cleaner and Hoppe's Elite Oil. I can't imagine needing anything else for lube. Both of my guns go bang every time I pull the trigger.

April 6, 2010, 10:50 PM
Hello friends and neighbors /// I've been doing it wrong.

April 6, 2010, 11:21 PM
I have been using Extreme Sports by Break Free 25/30 years.
It is not made anymore as far as I know.
It may be just LP.
It looks like LP ?????
Works great. (

The Lone Haranguer
April 7, 2010, 12:52 AM
It depends. I do like grease better on frames with full contact rails, especially alloy frames which are softer than the steel slide. On rails with only limited contact (most polymer frames, e.g., Glock), a drop of oil on each is sufficient.

April 7, 2010, 08:58 AM
All of my firearms get the same treatment:

For cleaning - Hoppes #9
For Lube - Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease

I also wipe down the finish of my firearms with Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease, as it has superior corrosion protection properties.

April 7, 2010, 11:12 AM
I use motor oil or LSA.

I tried grease on M1911's, and the stuff was hard to wipe out.

Oil is easy to wipe off.

April 7, 2010, 11:42 PM
Tetra grease on sear and trigger bar, castrol synthetic 10w-30 on everything but the actually trigger, rem oil on trigger. This is for my polymer handguns. Steel and aluminum firearms, castrol synthetic everywhere.

April 8, 2010, 12:46 AM
to clarify..

STP Oil Treatment..

April 8, 2010, 08:48 AM
40-20-10-10-10-10 mix of:

Crisco, 3 In One, Astroglide, half and half, KY, and Chapstick(preferably 30 spf and up, gives my 1911 extree cycling speed).

April 8, 2010, 06:20 PM
TG13: Have you tried any of that STP mixed 50/50 with ATF? The ATF will keep the gun from gooing up with carbon. And thin out the STP a bit. It's really sticky.

Best part is i can wipe it all off and its still there. I might try straight up STP by itsself, but that seems too thick.

ATF's cleaning properties make the this combo easy to clean off with CLP.

April 8, 2010, 06:41 PM
Peanut Butter, Crunchy on rail creamy on trigger.And prune juice in case of FTE

April 8, 2010, 06:51 PM
Zerodefect: no, ATF supposedly has a bad reaction with polymers.. i just haven't wanted to chance it..

i put the STP on thick, make sure it's coating what it should.. then wipe the excess off to a thin(ish) film.. even if you wipe it all off, it leaves a very slick residue.. it works just fine as thick as it is in my XD45..

April 8, 2010, 07:52 PM
Sentry Solutions High Slip grease on the slide. It goes on super thin and works great. Rem Oil everywhere else.

April 8, 2010, 07:56 PM
On my 1911 I only use grease on the frame rails, with oil everywhere else. On my other guns, grease only. I am guessing since this is in the Handguns section we are only talking about handguns, right?


Body Mass
April 8, 2010, 08:50 PM
If the surfaces slide together, like my 1911 slide, I use grease. If the surfaces spin or rotate, like my wheel guns, I use oil.

Grease: Lubraplate 105

Oil: Rim Oil for a light weight oil or Hopps oil for a thicker lube.

April 8, 2010, 08:53 PM
Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w30

April 9, 2010, 02:56 AM
On my Sigs' rails, I use StaLube artifcial bearing grease with Molybdenum and Graphite.

deadeye dick
April 9, 2010, 07:46 PM
Back in the day(mid 60s) Iusd a product called Gunslick. It is a graphite based grease. I think it was made by Outers or Marble as thats the cleaning kits I used and still have today (probably a collecters item.) Still have the gunslick tube with a little left. Did"nt own hand guns then as N.Y. did'nt allow them. Used the stuff on my Savage 99F ,Rem.sportsman 58 and my double 12 ga. and show no wear.


If you enjoyed reading about "slide rail lubrication: oil vs. grease" here in archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join today for the full version!