[davera]

I picked up my first revolver today (S&W 686) and I have a question about cleaning the barrel. Most other things I've read concerning rifles and semi auto's suggest or even require pushing the rods from the chamber end and NOT the muzzle. Even to the point of suggesting damage to the muzzle crown if you push that way.
So, this doesn't look possible with a revolver .... so it must be OK to clean from the muzzle end right?

I did do some searches on TFL and here and didn't find a specific answer

[P95Carry]

Opinions will vary I guess but IMO the ideal is a cleaning rod with a guide bush .. so crown protected.

Having said that, never used one yet myself ..... and simply take care ...... being also of opinion that a revolver crown is way less critical than with a rifle .... cos of short range requirements.

If rod is Aluminum, or as I had once too ... a steel with plastic coating ... then hard to really damage things at all .

Congrats on the 686 .... you have a fine piece there ... and, being S/S .... gonna be hard to do much harm to that unless very ''over-enthusiastic''!!

[swifter]

If you can find a bushing, or make one, then remember to use it its propably best...:uhoh: Toss any aluminum rod, or give it to someone you despise...:evil: , get a quality coated or stainless steel rod and wipe it clean often. Be as careful as you can.:scrutiny: You probably can't hold close enough for minor crown damage to matter...:what: Nobody can... MINOR!! :uhoh:

Tom

[Jim March]

You can also take your steel/aluminum/whatever hard rod, slip a piece of electrical heat-shrink tube over it, shrink it down with a match, presto, instant plastic-outside, metal-inside shaft.

Heat-shrink tube is available at any Radio Shack or similar electronics hobby store.

[P95Carry]

Very valid point Jim ... tho I did try that and found the shrink ''tore'' after a while.

I have yet to try it but ..... have wondered whether the right I/D of silicon fuel tubing might be good ..... sorta stuff I use with my R/C aircraft. Must test it out.

[Jim March]

Hmmm. You know, some sort of thin tough string wound tightly up the shaft and tied off somehow might do it. Twine or kite string or something.

<scratches head>

Easier to get than shrink-tube, too.

[Standing Wolf]

I've found the best way to clean a revolver barrel is with the Lewis lead remover, which is pulled from breach through the barrel to the muzzle. After you've used it, you can push three or four soft cotton swabs through the barrel from the muzzle.

All my target revolvers have been crowned by the good folks at http://www.magnaport.com A good crown improves accuracy and protects the barrel.

[10-Ring]

Cleaning my 9 shot 22lr revo is what got me into using bore snakes. Easy & effective. Plus, when you add in the cylinder, it's like cleaning 10 barrels! :what:

[Mal H]

Jim, I don't think the string idea is viable. Even if you got lucky and it actually stayed on the rod for more than one pass through the barrel, it would tend to collect grit and then start to act as an abrasive. I know it would cause very little real damage to the barrel, but just the thought of it leaving tiny scratches in an otherwise sleek bore makes me not want to try it.

[Master Blaster]

Tr an OTIS rod, its flexible and can be pulled from breech to muzzle, its what I use, you do need to get short brushes for a revolver though, or cut the longer ones with wire cutter.

http://www.otisgun.com/cgistore/store.cgi?page=/new/fcatalog.html&setup=1&cart_id=

[TechBrute]

Um... I think most would be best served by just buying a Dewey rod. They are less than $20.

As far a boresnakes go, they make great portable emergency cleaning systems, but you can't do any serious cleaning with them. Those that think otherwise, get a borescope. :D

[Dave Markowitz]

You have to clean from the muzzle, so use a bore guide for the rod. One thing I've found with all of my guns is that you can save a lot of passes through the bore by letting the solvent do the work for you. I.e., when you are finished shooting but before you leave the range, run a wet brush or two through the bore while the barrel is still warm. Let it soak on the ride home, then finish cleaning it. This really reduce the number of patches you need to work through the barrel.

And re: cleaning rods, I'm going to go against the flow here and not recommend coated rods. The way I look at it, soft coatings on rods can pick up grit, making your rod into an abrasive stick. For that reason, I prefer uncoated stainless steel rods. Unlike coated or aluminum rods, they won't pick up anything to cause excess bore wear. Just use a muzzle protector.

[blowsomethingup]

bore snake is a neat product,it has brushes and patches built into it.drop the weighted end into breach and pull through muzzle.
use brush for cylinders and frame.

[sm]

Otis pull through system is especialy good for Revolvers. Most of my cleaning is with this system.

If I use a rod, I use only non-coated steel with muzzle guards.

Muzzle guards, brass, synthetic, wood (the later is from a wooden thimble I made.

All get a wipe down b/t passes through bore. OH btw a drinking straw ain't cheating, it works. The one from Sonic being big is good for larger bores.

I have owned a otis type for 20+ years, their paid for , fit all calibers, why I don't have Boresnakes. Patchworm system(weed- eater line) is inexpensive, caliber specific also.

Crowns: I have some nice jobs on those, including a lever action rifle, just try to protect them is all.

I used to make a lapping tool using coated rods, some I made with shrink tape...can't get that picture out of my mind, can't use on my guns. Just me.

[Dave R]

I use a bore snake. My opinion: either bore snake or Otis is the way to go. Bore snake is easier to use, but Otis prolly cleans a little better (don't know, never tried Otis).

Bore snake makes cleaning my revolver quick easy. A few pulls through bore and each chamber with some CLP/G-96, then wipe the frame & clean cylinder star, wipe down and put away.