[Thundercleese]

A -while- back on TFL I posted about a sickly Python that came from the factory with a pretty ugly forcing cone. Lots of mars and scratches. After going through JM's revolver checkout (even went out and bought a drop rod and tested the timing) list and using the gun a bunch of times w/ 357 and 38 all seemed well.

Anyways, a few months back while on vacation I put around 150 rounds of plain-jane UMC 38 through it. Upon trying to clean it, to my dismay I found some pretty terrible lead buildup in the forcing cone. I scrubbed and I scrubbed, and I -scrubbed- and the deposits are still there. I even went as far as to take a piece of hard plastic and tried scraping at the gunk, revealing a surprisingly still deep buildup. Some images (first one shows the scrape)

http://home.insightbb.com/~daveb196/cone1.jpg
http://home.insightbb.com/~daveb196/cone2.jpg

If you look carefully, you can see the concentric rings in the cone which I've been told are likely the result of careless machining.

Now, mind you this was FMJ .38 (exposed lead in the rear) so I'm pretty darn puzzled how this could happen. Could the marred forcing cone cause this? Any suggestions on how to proceed? I admit I've sat on this for a few months because I was pretty steamed that a brand new $1000 gun was having these kinds of issues. But as the weather changes and my fancy turns back towards revolvers, I just wanna get this sucker good to go.

[dfariswheel]

Two steps:

1. Buy a Lewis Lead Remover Kit. This removes lead from bores, chambers, AND forcing cones, WITHOUT lots of scrubbing, and NO chance of damage.

2. Find a QUALIFIED pistol smith and have him "polish" the forcing cone. I say "polish" because it doesn't mean mirror-shiny, it means having all scratches and tool marks removed.

You'll note I say "qualified 'smith". There is a special tool kit for cutting and polishing forcing cones. Trying to work on the cone with "expedient" tooling will ruin the barrel.
The forcing cone is a critical area and the dimensions of the cone MUST be understood.
If the mouth of the cone is just slightly too big, the barrel is ruined. Mouth too small-poor accuracy and leading. Degree of taper wrong-ruined barrel.
Unless you can afford the kit, take time to learn how to use it, and fully understand forcing cone tolerances, DON'T try this at home.

The smoother forcing cone won't lead up as bad. What leading there will be, will be removed easily by the Lewis kit.

Every revolver shooter should consider the Lewis kit a necessary piece of equipment.

[Standing Wolf]

Every revolver shooter should consider the Lewis kit a necessary piece of equipment.

I'll second that. I've used the Lewis lead remover for roughly thirty years, and have never damaged a barrel, nor seen it leave lead in grooves or forcing cones. It does occasionally leave a little copper in the barrel, but it's easily brushed out with a Nylon bore brush and your regular cleaning solvent.

As for the poorly finished forcing cone, I'd say Colt owes you a new barrel if you bought it new.

I looked at a pair of new stainless Pythons several weeks ago, a four-inch and a six-, with price tags of $1,069 each. Both had terrible triggers, and both were unevenly finished. I left them in the display case.

[Quantrill]

Another vote for the Lewis Lead Remover. I have had mine for 30 some years and it always does the job. There is a Lewis clone made by Hoppes but I have never had the opportunity to try it. Quantrill

[Dr.Who]

Currently, I just use alot of elbow grease, Cleaning jags, Brushes and solvent to remove the lead.

I have been looking to see what a Lewis Kit is? Midway does not carry it. Can you descride what is special about the kit? Does it use electrical (batterry) charge and solvent or what magical device that you guys use to "get the lead out"???

Where did you guy find yours?

Thanks, :D

[braindead0]

I've been unable to get an answer about this one, is the Hoppes lead remover kit essentially the same thing as the lewis lead remover? All I know is the Hoppes doesn't work for squat and the Lewis looks like it uses the same principal.

Perhaps the lewis kit used softer rubber? My main problem is it leaves leading in the grooves.

[dfariswheel]

The best place to find the Lewis kit is from Brownell's Gunsmith Supply.

The Lewis kit includes a special aluminum, "Tee" handled rod, two type of special tips, brass "screen" patches, and a small rod-like "wrench".

To use, the aluminum rod is put down the bore. A round brass screen patch is put over the special cone-shaped aluminum tip, and screwed onto the rod.
The cone tip and patch is pulled into the revolver's forcing cone and the rod is turned. This "scrapes" the lead from the forcing cone. leaving it clean.

Next, the special brass, steel and rubber tip has a brass patch attached and the unit is screwed to the rod. The adjustment screw is BACKED OFF, and the rod and tip are pulled through and out of the bore. When the tip comes out, it will be coated with lead removed from the bore.

The lead is "flicked" off the tip with your thumb nail, the tip is removed from the rod, the rod goes back into the bore and the tip is screwed on again.
The adjustment screw on the tip is tightened slightly and the rod is pulled out again.
This process is continued until all lead is removed, usually 3-5 times.

To clean the chambers, the tip is tightened more, the rod and tip is pulled into the chamber to the chamber throat, and the rod is turned to remove the built-up lead.

After all lead is removed, the bore and cylinder are brushed with a bronze brush and solvent to remove any residual lead in the "corners" of the rifling.

Simply because it's a bit faster, I use Brownell's special bronze chamber brushes to clean lead from the cylinder. I use them the same as the Lewis: Pull the brush into the chamber throat and turn.
I DON'T recommend using the stainless chamber brushes, they're too aggressive and can damage the chamber.

The Lewis set is used DRY, no solvent.

Another advantage of the Lewis is unlike brushes, it doesn't spray fine lead dust into the air, where you will inhale it.

When attaching the brass screens and tips to the rod, always screw the tip firmly to the rod with the small wrench. Otherwise, the patch will tend to tear.

ADDITION:
The Hoppe's kit doesn't seem to be as good a quality as the Lewis.

There will be some lead left in the "corners' of the rifling, but that small amount brushes out fairly easy. The real "bear" lead to remove is on the forcing cone and the grooves of the rifling. Brushes tend to slide over the lead, where in the corners the brush tends to remove the small amount easily.

[braindead0]

Yup, sounds exactly like the hoppes..same instructions and everything. Doesn't seem to work for diddly on my gun, but I'm very picky.. Perhaps it works well on heavy leading, I usually get just a little bit in the edges of the grooves..near the forcing cone.

[dhoomonyou]

I dont intend to hijack your thread, but i have a question/comment about revolvers & semi auto's.
I have a Glock and find it amazingly easy & simple to keep clean. I would like to get a revolver, but it seems (perhaps mistakenly) that there is a LOT more work to do (Cleaning) , and a lot more that can go wrong if you purchase it used ( timing, etc...) any info will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

[Quantrill]

dfariswheel does an excellent job of describing the use of a Lewis Lead Remover. I was introduced to the LLR 30 some years ago as a competitor in a NRA Police Combat Match. The then current champion (Frank ???) was squadded next to me and I watched him like a hawk to see what a young rookie could learn. After each stage of the match, he would take out a LLR and clean up his revolver. At the lunch break, I asked him what it was and he kindly showed me and said that a lead free revolver was necessary to win. By the way, he used factory lead wadcutters. I bought one as soon as I could find one and have never been without one since. I do not understand why it does not work for BD0 as it has always worked on my double and single action pistols in .38,.357,.44 and mag and .45acp and colt. Quantrill

[dfariswheel]

dhoomonyou:

There is more work cleaning a revolver, IF you shoot lead bullets.
Shoot jacketed bullets and clean up isn't bad.

People shoot lead bullets primarily because they're cheaper than jacketed, and in the "old days" when the revolver was king at pistol matches, shooter's used lead both because of cost and better accuracy.

When buying a used revolver, pick a good "name" brand like S&W Ruger, or Colt and there will usually be nothing wrong with it.

Where you get into problems is when buying a fairly old gun, or an "off" brand.

Check the first "floater" post in this forum for good info on inspecting a revolver before purchase.

Of course, the best first revolver is a factory new S&W or Ruger.
Buy a good revolver, shoot it with jacketed bullets, and they're no more trouble than an auto, if not LESS.

[Standing Wolf]

There is more work cleaning a revolver, IF you shoot lead bullets.

Slow-moving lead bullets leave less lead in bores than fast-moving.

Cleaning cylinder bores adds time to cleaning revolvers. My solution to the problem is to remove the cylinder and let it soak in a jar of Hoppe's No. 9 while I clean the barrel and frame. The cylinder bores still need brushing and swabbing, and the extractor always needs attention, but the soaking cuts the time and effort required by about 50%.

[Thundercleese]

An update : just brought home a Lewis kit. Wow! In 30 seconds the forcing cone was totally cleared. No fuss whatsoever.

About $15 from Brownell's. Great deal.