[waterhouse]

So I did a search and saw a lot of people use krylon as a finish, I was just wondering if there are any tips or tricks I need to be aware of before I try it.

I've got an old 870 windmaster with a lot of rust and pitting. Before any of the purists get upset about ruining the finish on an old wingmaster, please keep in mind that the finish is really bad already and I own several nice wingmasters, so this one will be my sacrificial lamb. It's internals are all fine, and it's going to start a permanent residence in my trunk. I don't need it to be pretty, I just want it to stop rusting.

Here's the plan:

1) take it all the way apart

2) sand all of the pitting out until it is smooth

3) lightly sand all metal to scuff it up

4) krylon

Is there a good way to get an even coating of paint on the inside of the receiver, or should I tape that up and keep paint out of there?

any tips or suggestions are welcome.

[Superreverb]

Why not try something like this:

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/Store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1145&title=TEFLON%2FMOLY+OVEN+CURE%2C+GUN+FINISH

It'd prolly last a whole lot longer than spray enamel. Just my.02.

Ed

[A Cleaner]

I won't give you any grief about painting an old Wingmaster. I just cut a double gun down to 19" and took the flak from the purists myself.

Your approach sounds about right. A few guys on here much wiser than me have mentioned using non-chlorinated Brakleen and then mineral spirits to remove any and all residues, petroleum based or otherwise. You might insert those two steps just after sand everything and right before Krylon. Extra prep usually equals extra durable finish.

Paint in light even coats on all externals. I would definitely keep paint out of the receiver but that's just me. I want to still be able to scrub it once in a while with brass or nylon bristled brushes.

Good luck. Here's to you having a very nice durable Wingmaster trunk gun.

[berettashotgun]

I paint ,well-supervise 80% :D , aerospace; bizjets mostly. A good cleaning with steel wool(any kind) and washie/wipie with denatured alcohol is an excellent start to any paint job. An epoxy polyamide primer will ALWAYS be there and any polyester urethane, big talk for polyurethane, topcoat will last quite some time. Believe it or not- Sherwin Williams aerospace coatings are in use in almost every local airpark in the nation. Really available. The stuff really isn't that expensive,but you will get some salt water corrosion tested tough results. Off the soap box.......

[HSMITH]

The best would be a bead blast on the exterior, it gives the paint some real tooth to bite and hold. If you can't get it bead blasted just sand it with some rough paper, 100 grit would be a good choice.

Don't worry about sanding the pits out, DO worry about getting all the rust out of them and down to clean metal. Toilet bowl cleaner that you probably have in a cupboard right now and a Q-tip works great for getting the pits cleaned out well. Wipe down with naptha or alcohol, and spray it out.

DON'T spray the interior, it will cause problems you don't need, and a light coat of oil will keep the corrosion under control very well.

I have an 870 express in Krylon extra shabby camo, it has been in paint for probably 8 years now, 3 of them it was hunted HARD. A couple small touch-ups and all is still good. The Krylon camo paints are very tough.

[waterhouse]

thanks for the tips guys, I'll probably do it tomorrow afternoon . . .pics to follow

[Scoupe]

The Brownell's moly coat is a good durable finish that is sprayed on like paint and then baked. Another good bake-on coating is Gun Kote. Both are really better choices than Krylon, but Krylon is better than rust.

[Coltdriver]

I painted an old beater police turn in 870 with krylon.

All I did to prep it was to clean it real well with laquer thinner to get all of the oil off.

Definitely use the primer coat.

Mine looks great and the paint is tough as nails. If you chip it, repairing it is easy. I have not had to repair mine yet.

I did not sand it or try to get the pitting out. The primer filled it real nice and you can not tell its pitted at all.

Post a pic when you are done.

[Gordon]

What can you paint on a wood stock to give it a durable, textured finish?

[HSMITH]

Gordon, do-it-yourself bedliner kits work well on stocks. If the texture is too rough you can sand the texture or pick it out while wet where your face will hit the stock.

[waterhouse]

Well, it came out a lot better than I thought it would. Certainly not perfect, but for $5 in spray paint and and hour worth of work I'm pretty happy with my new trunk gun. It looks a lot more like and express than a wingmaster, but that's ok by me.

Before:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v601/waterhouse/IMGP1089.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v601/waterhouse/IMGP1092.jpg

Stripped with blue remover and sanded with 120 grit:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v601/waterhouse/IMGP1094.jpg

After:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v601/waterhouse/IMGP1101.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v601/waterhouse/IMGP1102.jpg

[GunnySkox]

Hey, that ain't a bad-lookin' shottie, so far as I can tell.

That "finish" looks better than the skeevy black stuff on my Maverick 88 field. :scrutiny:

Rock on,
~Slam_Fire
"Go and tell your alien brothers... THAT RONNIE CORDOVA SAYS THEY'RE GAY!" ~Ronnie Cordova, Sockbaby

[A Cleaner]

Waterhouse,

Excellent job, man. What kind of blue stripper did you use? Did you use a primer or just the paint? What type of spray paint did you use, flat, semi-gloss, or glossy?

Helluva job.

As far as painting the stock, some here have recommended a standard spray paint, then sprinkle fine sand while still wet, then let dry and re-coat 2-3 times. You could always just leave out the sand if you don't desire extra grip.

[c_yeager]

Thats better finish than the one that came with my NIB Express.

[waterhouse]

I used "birchwood casey rust and blue remover" to get the blue off. It works really quickly and it's easy to use, but it smells terrible. I had a bottle in the back of the cleaning cabinet from a failed attempt at "cold blue" a couple years ago.

Krylon primer and then 4 coats of "semi flat black" paint.

[Charles S]

Very nice.

Thanks for the info.

I am going to try that myself soon.

Charles

[Parke1]

Nice looking finish there! What'd you do to keep paint out of the inside of the receiver, or did you just not worry about it? I've got an old shottie or two that could definitely benefit from a new outfit.

-Parke1

[waterhouse]

What'd you do to keep paint out of the inside of the receiver,

just a little masking tape

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v601/waterhouse/IMGP1098.jpg

[romulus]

multiple blessings unto you, for your craft as well as your ultimatre product. Your photography is something to write home about, excellent pics.

Congrats on a beauteous piece...

[waterhouse]

thanks, I always had problems with gun pictures and someone here suggested I do them outside using the sun as a light source and that has helped a bunch.

One thing I forgot to mention: make sure you tape your bead sight. I forgot to do this and it was hard to see once it was black. It only took a minute to scrape the paint off, but it could have been avoided.