PVC target stand plans?


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curt
March 27, 2003, 01:08 PM
I'm planning on moving on out to 400yds and realize the way i shooting i'm going to need a bigger target stand than my 18 inch wide one. At quantico, where i shoot, you have to hump your stand out there and back durng breaks so it has to be something i can quickly and easily setup and take down.

I've been doing a search but can't seem to find any plans that completely fit the bill. I could, of course, with appropriate experimentation build something but the thought of iterations of going prone when the range goes hot only to see my target go down 400 yds away doesn't appeal to me. Does anyone have a link to plans for something like this?

TIA

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No4Mk1*
March 27, 2003, 01:28 PM
I made one that is easy to transport and easy to carry downrange.

2X pieces of rebar each are 2 feet long with one end somewhat sharpened. Drive the rebar into the ground about 4 feet apart.

2X about 1/2 inch internal diameter PVC pipes about 6 feet tall which can be slid over the rebar after the rebar is driven into the ground.

1X small string running between the top of the pipes which is used to hang targets.

It helps if the rebar rods are driven into the ground slightly sloping away from each other so that the string can slightly pull the PVC pipes together and be taught. You can substitute another PVC pipe for the sting if you use 2X 90 degree joints, but I would probably shoot the pipe. It is easy to replace the sting and use clothes pins on it.
I use a hand sledge to drive the rebar in. This has never fallen over due to wind and if you shoot the PVC or sting it takes about 1 minute to replace the damaged part.

curt
March 27, 2003, 02:10 PM
thanks no4 that sounds like a simple, rugged approach. I like the rebar in the ground part.

Badger Arms
March 27, 2003, 02:11 PM
What about when the wind blows?

Onslaught
March 27, 2003, 02:20 PM
My new target stand is a "For Sale By Owner" sign with frame that I picked up from Lowe's for about $8. It's a sturdy metal wire frame, but still thin and light weight. I just put some of the black paper stack clips at the top, sides, and bottom to keep the target sturdy. it's definitely more than 18" wide.

http://www.fsboadvertisingservice.com/Signs/Delux480.jpg

telewinz
March 27, 2003, 04:53 PM
Why not wait till the next election? Those wire stands used for the banners make great target stands plus it helps to clean-up afterwards. Either democrat or republican work equally well.:D

curt
March 27, 2003, 06:21 PM
onslaught, very ingenous. Could you give me an estimate of the dimensions and height? Also is that "backer board" easily replaceble?

Hans Esker
November 9, 2008, 02:41 PM
Depending on your metalworking skills and tools (mine are ok) and the size of your vehicle (mine might be too small for this idea to work, need to measure), you could probably omit the PVC in No4Mk1*'s design if you simply used longer pieces of rebar for your uprights; about 7' long if sticking with the same dimensions as No4Mk1*'s setup.

For safety's sake, buy some of those rebar toppers. In the event of an accident during transport, you would not want these things to have unprotected points on bars this long!

Also, to reduce swinging due to wind, muzzle blast when at close range, etc, attach a second string so you can clip the bottom of your targets.

Note that I am just building this design in my head, and have not actually used any sort of target stand in real life YET; I came across thread while looking for design ideas.

finfanatic
November 9, 2008, 05:53 PM
I use electric fence posts (rebar with a wing welded on) that I have used a grinder to slightly sharpen one end. Then, I stop by the recylce bins at a local shipping co and pick up some 4' X 5' cardboard pallet slips covers. They usually are glad to get rid of the stuff.

Drive the fence posts in, duct tape the cardboard slip covers to the posts, and then tape your target onto the cardboard.

Fractal X
November 9, 2008, 06:18 PM
This is what I use. (http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c290/RcMacStudent/IMG_1414.jpg)
The verticals and long legs are 3', the horizontals and short legs are 2' (the short feet in the photo are ~16" because they were horizontals that got shot). I've found this design to stay standing (with the sandbags) in 20-25 mph wind.

CRITGIT
November 9, 2008, 06:53 PM
I've made them like this.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/Rimfire01/TargetStand2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/Rimfire01/TargetStand.jpg
1.5" PVC and the aid of a rock or sand bag.

CRITGIT

aquapong
November 9, 2008, 08:50 PM
I made one like the post above, but added a piece going across in the back of the bottom and another cross member between the uprights.

miguel
November 14, 2008, 12:22 PM
So, how badly is the PVC damaged if you miss your paper and hit the PVC?

Can it take a couple of hits or would that part need immediate replacement?

Furncliff
November 14, 2008, 12:32 PM
...............

rondog
November 14, 2008, 12:39 PM
OK, I had one of those....HAD being the key word here. It was cool, because you could take it apart and store it, easy to transport, etc. But, PVC does NOT take well to bullet strikes!

The grandson and I shot that damn thing to pieces more than a couple of times. Last time, the base took some hits and that was it, she went in the trash. It was also VERY flimsy in the wind, it would whip back and forth something awful and required being tied down with strings stretched out to ammo cans full of rocks. Big pain in the ass. My next one will be made from wood.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b150/rinselman/guns/DSCN1782.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b150/rinselman/guns/DSCN1774.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b150/rinselman/guns/DSCN1773.jpg

rondog
November 14, 2008, 12:42 PM
So, how badly is the PVC damaged if you miss your paper and hit the PVC?

Can it take a couple of hits or would that part need immediate replacement?

It shatters! Very frustrating in the middle of a good day at the range.

KW
November 14, 2008, 07:08 PM
The plus side to pvc is that it's really cheap and light. So just cut a spare 10' section and carry a few spare pieces with you. I prefer the yard stake method CRITGIT posted pics of. The stakes are also cheap, light and easy to swap in and out. And if you're shooting someplace with soft ground, you can just skip the stand altogether.

rondog
November 14, 2008, 07:55 PM
My next one (or more) will be a variation of this stand and base. I'll probably make the base a little differently to suit my needs/taste and be more stable in the wind, but very similar to this.

You could have one or two bases, and several top parts that would be disposable when they're all shot up. I'll make mine a little taller, with a 24"x24" target board. Or you could make it bigger, say 24" high x 36" wide.

I nabbed these photos off some gun forum, no idea who made this.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b150/rinselman/guns/targetstand.jpg

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b150/rinselman/guns/targetstandbase.jpg

ilike223s
November 15, 2008, 11:36 PM
RONDOG
thats the same stands tht we use at our club, easy to make, they break down easy and light in weight,

sscoyote
November 16, 2008, 12:00 AM
I use a system similar to No4Mk1 above. I use 2 pieces of rebar for tgt. support and then i get 2 pieces of electrical conduit that barely fits over the rebar, and a pack of zip straps. Get some cardboard any size u want, and attach the cdbrd. to the conduit with the zip straps all along the edges. Attach tgts. or paint them on (i made up a stencil with different size tgts. and just paint them on the cdbrd). Most of these materials are usually super cheap at the local scrapyard. I uaually make up several of these, take them to my range, and set them up all at once--very portable system, especially when using multiple tgts. at different ranges.

I've made tgts. as small as 2x2ft. and as big as 5x5ft.

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