High Standard FTF Questions


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edwardh1
September 30, 2005, 04:21 PM
1969 High standard Duramatic .22 automatic . Not fired more than 50 times since new. Magazine was stolen. Went to good gun shop. They ordered a Duramatic magzine from tripple K. It came in .
With remingtom target loads it fed the shell high 1 0f 3 cycles) (just above the bore the shell front is in top of bore hole or just above it- you must push down on it and push the action forward to load it.,
. With CCI Minimags it was better and jammed only once in every clip of 8, almost always the 6 or 7th shell, then firing the last one.
With CCI stingers it shot 11 clips of 8 each flawlessly then jammed the same way in the 4th shell of the next 8 and 5th shell of the final 8 clip. Gun was very hot after the 11 clips of 8.

What is causing this jamming?
Does heat cause this problem?
New gun not yet broken in?
Why do more powerful shells work better?
Bad new magazine? Why almost always the next to last shell causes the jamming especially with weaker loads?
Any ideas?-

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Old Fuff
September 30, 2005, 05:57 PM
The trouble is the aftermarket magazine, not the pistol. The magazine lips need to be adjusted so that the bullet nose comes up into the chamber. If possible, try to find an original Hgh Standard magazine, or a gunsmith who understands how to adjust the lips.

TexasRifleman
September 30, 2005, 05:59 PM
I have an old 1950's Hi Standard "Sport King", the one with interchangeable barrels.

For whatever reason, every aftermarket mag I've tried has caused problems of one kind or another.

It's a real shame because I only have one mag.
Finding originals is right up there with the "impossible".

I'm interested in following your thread to see if there is some solution somewhere.

Standing Wolf
September 30, 2005, 11:35 PM
edwhardh1:

See my reply to your question at http://www.packing.org

I have no idea why no one's ever made good third party High Standard magazines: they're no more exotic than other .22 long rifle magazines, and there's definitely a market for them.

edwardh1
October 1, 2005, 03:15 PM
Some progress. I made the Jim barta tool and used his picture to adjust mainly the front of the rear lips rear lips to pull the shell down. Used drill bis as a guage.
Front lips were above the .230 and the back ones were less than the .185 and I closed the rear ones in even a little more. The "feeding high at or above the top of the bore hole" problem (which jammed the action many times ) has stopped. Using CCI stingers.
What is remaining or has developed , is a failure to get the shell fully into the chamber the shell sometimes is lacking about 1/8 inch to be fully seated. The result of course is that the trigger will not fire the shell. If you push on the slide some it will seat the shell and you then can fire it.
There seem to be two contributors-
1. Chamber too small? the shells will not fall easily out of the bore when the gun is vertical. If you clean the chamber and insert a new shell right then then it will fall out if tapped but not otherwise (like after shooting a lot)
Question 1- is the chamber a little too small? How do you loosen it up?
2. Slide may not be smooth? after you put the clip in initially and pull the slide all the way back, and release- it will stop when it moves forward and hits the back of the shell in the top of the clip- the shell does not move- it is like the front of the shell is hitting/stuck on the guns body in the area below the barrel - Should I olish this area with 600 grit sandpaper? the shell has not moved yet. (Is this normal or should the slide just slap the shell into the chamber by itself?) If you then push the slide forward it will chamber the shell. And will usually fire repeatedly. I have shot 40 in a row without a jam so far. This gun has less than 250 rounds thru it since new.
Question 2- is this a binding slide problem? How do I check to see if the slide is dragging on the clip lips which are now closer to each other, or if there is something else dragging on the slide? Barta mentions that possibility of the closed lips dragging on the slide.
How diagnose if the slide lips are dragging the slide or something else? - do slides loosen up with use? Oil/ No oil?


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