[Joemidd]

When I got my new lock and load AP. I set up my 45acp dies went to adjust the powder measure and it will not meter the 3.7 grains of hodgon Clays. :cuss: I binds up the smallest charge it will meter is 5.5-5.7grains. any Ideas on how go get it to meter small chages. I know Clays is not the best powder for 45acp I think it burns too fast. I have about 14 pounds of the stuff for my 12ga shotgun loads. Feel free to suggest a powder you like for 230grain jacketed and plated loads. The place where I shoot has alot of hodgon shotgun powders and red,green and blue dot powders. I can order any brand with them I have to wait untill they order clay birds to avoid the hazmat charge. In the last year the shooting club has started stocking rifle and pistol powder and primers. Most powder is $13.50-19.00 a pound :cool: the local gun shops are $22and up a pound

[lee n. field]

I'd say, call Hornady first about it.

Maybe you need one of these (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=831794) to adjust the cavity smaller.

[Canuck-IL]

I have the same issue with my 6 month old L'n'L. Significant improvement if you get the pistol metering insert which also has a micrometer dial on it - it's around $16 or so from Midway. Designed for loads under 20gr that the standard insert really doesn't handle easily. Still, Clays is "too flaky" to meter really well in a rotary, works fine in my slide style drop (Lee). I've most often found it to either drop or not....ie. when it bridges in the L'n'L, damn near nothing comes out so it's fairly easy to spot a light or empty case. I just weigh anything that looks at all iffy.

I use all fast powders for 45 - Bullseye and IPSC major loads. Bullseye is the classic and not half as dirty as people claim once you find the load that burns completely. Still, Clays is cleaner. Other choices are V310 and 320 ($$ when you can find it, little snappier recoil than BE and very clean, meters well), W231 (little dirty; is the same powder as HP-38), WST, S1000, Titegroup (runs hot). AA#2, AA#5 and Unique are less commonly used but there are loads available.
/Bryan

[Cortland]

Is the meter binding because the metering insert is screwed in so far or is binding for an unexplained reason?

If the latter, make sure you have the powder die adjusted far enough down into the press so that the powder measure drum rotates ALL the way up. If the powder die isn't adjusted far enough down so that drum actuates ALL the way up, the drum may bind on the way down.

If the former, the LnL AP comes with the standard rifle metering insert for the powder measure. You'll need to buy either a standard pistol metering insert or a micrometer pistol metering insert. The micrometer unit isn't much more and it's worth it.

[Werewolf]

Feel free to suggest a powder you like for 230grain jacketed and plated loads.For .45ACP and out of a 1911 with 5" bbl the most accurate load I've found for 230gr FMJ is 8.2gr AA#5, OAL 1.25 and a moderately heavy crimp of .470 to .471.

For .45ACP out of 4" barrels I get better results with Win231/HP38, 5.6gr. OAL 1.2 to 1.22 and a medium crimp of .472 to .473.

S&W 1911 Target used on AA#5 load
Sig P220 used on 231/HP38 load

[LHB1]

Joe,
Two suggestions for Hornady PM's:
1) Replace the Universal metering insert with the Pistol metering insert. If you use only one setting, the standard pistol insert is fine. If you change settings frequently, get the pistol insert with micrometer dial. The latter is easier to return to previous settings.

2) Get and insert a powder baffle in the hopper (RCBS model works in the Hornady PM also). Will help to avoid fluctuations in thrown charges due to powder packing in the hopper.

Have made these changes to both of my Hornady LNL Powder Measures and they work GREAT now.

Good shooting and be safe.
LB

[Khornet]

and I use both pistol and rifle inserts. When installing the insert pay attention to how far you push it in so it doesn't bind. You need a little 'slop', and it's perfectly accurate that way. Also, it's possible to misalign the rotor, having it protrude too far left or right.

Finally, from time to time I apply a little graphite to the rotor by rubbing a #2 pencil on it. Works for me!