Uberti SAA

[ulflyer]

Picked up a used one today at Charlotte in 45LC that a previous owner had aged. The pic looks more silver than it really is. The grip frame is brass that has been blackened. Haven't decided whether I'll leave it that way or not. At any rate it shoots good enough, with an excellent trigger, so I want to start reloading for it. Had forgot how simple these guns are and how easy they are to clean. :)

[StrikeEagle]

The grip frame is brass that has been blackened. Haven't decided whether I'll leave it that way or not.

I have one with the brass gripframe, and I like the way it looks. What is that blacking on yours and what would removal entail?

StrikeEagle

[Oldnamvet]

Looks like the previous owner had also used an ill-fitting screwdriver on it. Don't you just hate it when someone buggers up the screws on a weapon? I always end up trying to get replacements. Little things like that add a lot to the appearance.

[ulflyer]

StrikeEagle: Not sure what the black is. Prob paint but it doesn't scratch off with the fingernail. I'd remove the wood grip and the brass part and use paint remover. Then I'd have to find some chemical to age/tarnish the brass. I bought it because I was in the market for a low price SAA that I could attempt to do an ageing process on. When I saw this one already done pretty well...prob way better than I could do...I got it for $280 otd. Not a steal, but seem fair enough. Would have preferred a 357 since I already reload 38's...but I can tool up my 550 to reload 45LC and that way I can use some soft loads. Shot one box of Magtechs thru it this evening and it shoots a couple inches high at 12 yards. Don't plan on messing with front sight till I get some satisfactory reloads going to see how they perform.

Would you happen to know of any source for parts? I would like to replace the brass with steel, but I'm not going to put much money in it in order to do that.

Oldnamvet: Actually, the screws are in good condition. Inasmuch I want it to look old, I just might bugger the screws a little. Besides they need the bluing removed more than has been done already.

[kart racer]

UL,hey,if I bring a buddy with some brass and pay ya for other componets will you reload some 38's? Joe...oh,got the other nork today too.

[Oldnamvet]

Oh, if you want it to look old, send it to me. In about 20 years you'll get it back very nicely aged:D . No cost for the service either.:evil:

[Onmilo]

Previous owner probably used a chemical brass blackener do darken the grip frame.
You should be able to polish it off with some 0000 steel wool.
Leave the brass natural and go shoot the gun a few times.
The patina look you are desiring will appear in fairly short order. HTH

[jondar]

Tho I'm certainly no authority on Ubertis, I had no idea any were made with brass frames. Had I known this, I would have checked closely before I ordered the one I have now. The frame, hammer, and loading gate appears case hardened (not nearly as nice a job as the Colts) while other parts are blued. As I have posted on one or two other threads, when I thought I wanted a blackpowder revolver I asked the advice of the husband of a lady I worked with. He was a member of a reenactment Civil War Cavalry troop. He advised to do not buy one with a brass frame. He said that even with loading only wads, over time the brass would stretch. Are all Uberti's made with brass frames, and if not how do you tell the difference?

[Jim Watson]

EMF sells Dakotas with brass backstraps black nickel plated to sort of match the B/CH of the rest of the gun. Black nickel is not as durable as white nickel or chrome but it is a lot tougher than a chemical stain and might be tough to remove. If it did not come off with a little buffing, I'd ask a plating shop about stripping it chemically or by reverse plating.

Jondar - brass grip straps are not the same as a brass frame. I know of no SAA copy made with a brass frame. There are a fair number of Italian guns with brass grip straps because they are cheaper to make and do not affect the strength of the gun. After all, Ruger uses aluminum there. The brass framed cap & ball revolvers are not real durable, according to Turner Kirkland, but they will last better than you might think.

[StrikeEagle]

For some reason I LOVE the look of a Brass Gripframe. As has been pointed out, it's not a stressed part. And yes... Ruger makes them out of aluminum and no one can question a Ruger's strength.

I'm kind of looking at another USFA revolver down the road... and I called them and asked if they offer it with Brass Gripframe. They don't and they seemed kind of surprised that I'd want one.

http://www.ubertireplicas.com/products/pr1873Cattleman.html

The bottom revolver. What do you folks think?

StrikeEagle

[Old Dude]

Well, I think the brass looks pretty cool. I guess that's why I picked one up Friday.

[ulflyer]

Just occured to me that the one I just bought shoots high at 12 yards which is what my backyard range is.. This was with one box of factory Mag Tech ammo. I think I'm up the creek as i don't know of any way to lower the shot pattern. I doubt that lower power loads will make that much diff, if any.

Any ideas?

[Vern Humphrey]

Just occured to me that the one I just bought shoots high at 12 yards which is what my backyard range is.. This was with one box of factory Mag Tech ammo. I think I'm up the creek as i don't know of any way to lower the shot pattern. I doubt that lower power loads will make that much diff, if any.

Any ideas?

If it were shooting low, you could file the front sight. As it is, you need to find a way to either build up the front sight or experiment with different loads. Since the finish is mostly gone, a dab of metal added to the front sight by a welder should be easy to do -- shape it with files and stones afterwards to get a good contour. Be sure to get it extra high, shoot and file a few strokes until you get it shooting right.

Caution! Do not shoot from a rest. Your zero from a rest will be different from your normal shooting stance. If you're not sure of your ability offhand, fire more shots to locate group center.


If you choose to experiment with loads, you should try lighter bullets and higher velocity. Heavier, slower bullets have more recoil and more dwell time -- so the revolver is pointing higher as the bullet leaves the muzzle. Faster, lighter bullets have a lower angle of launch.

[ulflyer]

Vern: Good advice. I like the gun and would like to keep it and do some reloading. Before I spend money on dies and Conversion kits I'm gonna buy some cowboy loads (I assume they are lighter loaded?) and will give it a go free hand. The box of Mag Tech I shot was bench rest; at least the butt was. I have a bunch of 200 gr flat nose cowboy type bullets so I'll use those if I start reloading.

[jondar]

Jim Watson & SE - The picture now becomes clear. I'm not worried about the grip straps, as you say Ruger uses aluminim alloy and rated as one of the strongest handguns. I'm disappointed to find that's black nickel tho, I thought I had some of the finest bluing I ever saw. All in all, a pretty fine revolver for the price.