Cast bullet for .30-30


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RWMC
December 25, 2005, 05:21 PM
I purchased a Winchester Model 94 in caliber .30-30 two weeks ago. It was made in 1950 and has a mint condition bore. I have a 500 lb. linotype lead supply that I have been told performs quite well in the .30-30. Can anyone suggest to me a bullet mould that throws an accurate 170 to 200 grain projectile? It will be used with only moderate loads, for I want to keep the 94 shooting as long as possible. Unlucky coyotes, antlerless whitetails (this year the state finally has given us a high power rifle season in the two lower tiers of counties!) and paper targets will be on the receiving end of my 94. Your favorite performing powder suggestions would also be great. Thanks for all of your advice in advance. MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL HERE AT "THE HIGH ROAD"!

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TooTaxed
December 25, 2005, 06:20 PM
Lyman 311291 is excellent for most .30 rifles...170-gr gas check, long bore-riding section, round nose. Have loaded it in .30-30, .30-06 (1-minute groups in my Springfield) and unsized for .303 Brit and 7.7-mm Jap. There is a similar Lyman flat-nosed bullet...don't know off hand what it is, but you should be able to pick it off a Lyman bullet chart. If you don't want to bother with sizing, you can get a Lyman U311291 mold (undersized), which you can load direct into .30 rifles.:D

calaverasslim
December 25, 2005, 06:47 PM
I have found the RCBS 150gr FP w/gas check is a great round for whitetail and smaller feral hogs. 10.5gr of Unique powder, not a particular hot load but very effective out to 100 yds and quite comfortable to shoot.:D

cropcirclewalker
December 25, 2005, 07:25 PM
I think the one you want is the Lyman 31141, sometimes called the 311041.

173 gr flat nose. If I remember correctly, it was made for the .30-30

33052

Merry Christmas.

Vern Humphrey
December 25, 2005, 07:28 PM
I recommend the Lee C309-170-F. This is designed for the .30-30, and Lee moulds are resonably priced and very good quality.

Winger Ed.
December 26, 2005, 02:00 AM
I shoot the 311291 in .30-30, .30-06, and .308Win., and it does fine-- as most of the other various molds are too.

Grab the Lyman reloading book, and their Cast Bullet handbook. Great reading, and very informative. Once you get into casting, you might want to blend some pure Lead into that linotype you've got or it'll go pretty fast, plus you probably won't want bullets quite that hard.

With sane, moderate loads like you're wanting, cast bullets will let the barrel and frame last pretty much forever too.

Quantrill
December 26, 2005, 09:10 AM
Ya got some pretty good suggestions here. The Lyman 311291 and 311041 are both the classic 30 caliber bullets and the Lee309-170F is a great clone of the 041. I do not think you will go far wrong with any of them. Quantrill

qajaq59
December 29, 2005, 11:07 AM
I've use the Lyman 311041 quite often in my Winchester. It's a good bullet plus you can work up a LOT of loads for it using various powders. Shoots pretty darn good too. And if you don't feel like casting them after a while, you can buy some 165 gr FN ones from the venders. I think I pay roughly $54 with shipping, per thousand. That makes for pretty cheap shooting........

RWMC
January 1, 2006, 11:20 PM
Thanks for all of the great info! I found a Lyman cast bullet handbook and will begin the reading process tomorrow. I hope you all had a great New Year day and that the year will find you in good health, happiness and our Troops home soon.

TooTaxed
January 2, 2006, 07:03 PM
Good step! You might also consider the LEE cast bullet lineup...just got one of the LEE catalogs, and their bullet lineup looks rather good...even have one for the 9-mm Mak! They also say bullet sizing isn't required for most of their bullets, and they have a good variety of bullets specifically designed for use with ALOX lube, which is fast and works well. I can't verify, as my old molds are Lyman. One problem with the steel molds such as Lyman is rust...Lee molds are aluminum...and rather nicely priced (check Midway). Think I'll try one out myself...:D

Happy casting!

One more tip...I drop my bullets from the mold into water, to harden them immediately...if they cool slowly they get somewhat softer... and to avoid dents from hitting other fresh bullets. But, you don't want to splash water on the dies, so drop them from waist level into a pan of water on the floor...

georgeduz
January 2, 2006, 07:47 PM
i dont care i will size them all.how can u trust them all to be the same unless u size.its not something u can check by eye.

Fatelvis
January 3, 2006, 08:35 PM
I agree with Winger, I wouldn't use straight Lynotype for these bullets. Maybe go 50/50 with lead, or a touch of Lyno to wheel weights. Lyno is harder than jacketed bullets. If you're interested in preserving your bore (rifling), you are better off using a softer alloy, and make sure it is .001" over your bore diameter. Please let us know how it groups!

robertbank
January 12, 2006, 12:48 AM
I have the 311291 mold. Do youg uys load them in your tubular mags. I know the boolit has a round nose but still was concerned about igniting one in the tubular magazine. Are my fears unjustified?

Stay Safe

MNgoldenbear
January 12, 2006, 05:35 PM
I have the 311291 mold. Do youg uys load them in your tubular mags. I know the boolit has a round nose but still was concerned about igniting one in the tubular magazine. Are my fears unjustified?
More or less. There was an article recently, in Precision Shooting IIRC, in which a person examined the alignment of cartridges in a tubular magazine. The cartridges do NOT sit in a straight line, point-to-primer, but rather are cocked due to the compression of the spring and the tolerance between the magazine diameter and the cartridge. They did not advocate going to pointed bullets, but noted that it is a significantly smaller hazard than many had thought all these years (without actually looking at how the rounds sit). In fact, I suppose the worst bullet given the way the bullets arrange themselves is one that has a flat nose with a small meplat that is really hard. This might allow the edge of the meplat to sit against the primer. Still not likely to light up, but no sense in tempting fate, I suppose.

Vern Humphrey
January 12, 2006, 05:57 PM
More or less. There was an article recently, in Precision Shooting IIRC, in which a person examined the alignment of cartridges in a tubular magazine. The cartridges do NOT sit in a straight line, point-to-primer, but rather are cocked due to the compression of the spring and the tolerance between the magazine diameter and the cartridge. They did not advocate going to pointed bullets, but noted that it is a significantly smaller hazard than many had thought all these years (without actually looking at how the rounds sit). In fact, I suppose the worst bullet given the way the bullets arrange themselves is one that has a flat nose with a small meplat that is really hard. This might allow the edge of the meplat to sit against the primer. Still not likely to light up, but no sense in tempting fate, I suppose.

Note that the 8mm Lebel cartridge was designed for tublar magazines, and has a ring around the primer, to catch the nose of a bullet should it wander towards the primer.

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