[joshh]

I have a Springfield GI-45 that I'm wanting to use as a CCW. I have put probably 8-900 rounds through it without any stoppages at all, but there are a few things that I'd like to address.

1. Erratic ejection. I've been fighting this since I first got the pistol. I've asked about it before and I think it has to do with the crappy stock extractor and the extractor not fitting tightly with the firing pin stop. So I want to get a new extractor, but I don't know what brand. Also should I get an oversized firing pin stop as well?

2. Beavertail. The tang on the stock grip safety cuts my hand after shooting about 20 rounds through it. That makes it a little uncomfortable to practice when your hand is bleeding. Anyone have any recommendations on what to do here?

3. Sights. The factory sights are really difficult to see. I figure if I'm going to be using this as a CCW I might want to be able to see where I'm aiming without taking 30 seconds to get a good sight picture. I really have no idea about what to do here. A friend of mine got a Kimber that has some really good sights on it, but I don't know who makes them or if I can get them. Also are sights something I can install myself?

4. Trigger? I'd like to put in an extended trigger, but I don't know if I should try to do the whole shebang or just change out the trigger. I'd really like a solid extended trigger (not skeleton or 3 hole), but I have not been able to find one. Do these exist? Do I need to do something to give this a lighter trigger pull as well?

5. ??? Is there anything else I might want to do for reliability? I'm really looking for suggestions here.

Thanks guys.

[Azrael256]

I'm doing the same thing on my GI high-cap. Here's what I'm doing:

Wilson Bullet-Proof extractor. It's radiused, serious steel, and guaranteed. You do have to tension it yourself, but taking it slow and careful makes it work well. It comes with instructions, too. Bullet-Proof slide stop as well. You have to fit it to your gun, as it comes with quite a bit of extra metal, but it'll give you a good snug fit. Wilson also makes complete pin sets. I VERY strongly recommend it. The GI models seem to have screwy plungers, and I know for certain that the mainspring is not standard because of that stupid ILS spring cap. The pin set will fix that. Go with the Wolff spring pack once you change the pins.

I'm changing out my sear for something better. The original is MIM and I'm not going to be the guy to find out if MIM really is trash. Go with what you like, I'm just sticking with Wilson for everything I can. I'm looking at their A2 tool steel sear. I want to change the hammer out because I don't care for the S80 hammer with no true half-cock, but it's hard to find a part that isn't some ninjafied commander thing requiring a beavertail. Since you like beavertails, you might try Wilson's drop-in. You won't have to do any cutting like you will with most of them, and you can put on whatever commander hammer you like.

The disconnector is cast, and that just won't do for me, so I'm swapping it with a Wilson part. The same with the hammer strut and slide stop (I think the hammer strut is machined, but a new one is cheap). Their "factory plus" line for those parts is CNC and heat treated, so they should do well. I think my link is cast (not sure), but a replacement machined SS part is a few dollars, so why not? I'm going with the #3 .278" part, which is standard. I don't care to go mucking with the lockup timing.

For your trigger, you should look at brownells or midway. I like mine, so I won't be changing it, but I'm sure you can find something there.

Overall, I don't have any desire to go for fancy competition parts. I'm doing whatever fitting is necessary to get everything right into spec, but I'm not fooling with any of the match upgrades. I don't care for the idea of a 2# trigger on a CCW gun, I just want it to work like it should every single time.

All together, I've spent about $75 for the extractor, pin set, link, and springs. I'll be spending about another $100 for sear, slide stop, and hammer (when I find one I like), and probably another $30-40 on the hammer strut and disconnector. I'll be upgrading the ejector if I think I need it. My budget for the project is $250, so I should finish right on the dot.

I am not replacing the thumb safety, as I like the existing one even if it is cast. I'll upgrade the bushing if I think I need it, but that will come later. I don't really want to put in a beavertail, and the cast mainspring housing doesn't bother me now that the ILS is inoperable.

[AK103K]

This may cover what your looking for. I've dealt with EGW since they opened and they are a great outfit.

http://www.egw-guns.com/egw.htm (click on gunsmith services then tactical under packages)


I usually have them do their "reliability" package on any older 1911's I pick up. It covers most of the usual problems that pop up with a 1911 for a reasonable price.

Unless the trigger is really bad, I usually dont even bother with it, especially on a carry gun. I like them heavy, as long as they are fairly clean.

If your going to get the sights done, get night sights, you wont regret it. Also, have the front sight "dovetailed". The staked in ones tend to fly off after awhile.

Since you already have the gun, the biggest advantage here is, you know it works and you'll get a great carry gun for about what a lower end Kimber would cost you.

[Old Fuff]

joshh:

Before you do anything, go to www.brownells.com and order a copy of their catalog. This will give you insights concerning the parts you might want to use.

Then add up the cost of whatever you have in mind, and see what would be the better way too go - modify the gun you have, or sell it and take the money, plus the cost of making the proposed modifications, and buy another pistol that has the features you want. Sometimes this is the less expensive way too go.

[dsk]

I have a Springfield GI-45 that I'm wanting to use as a CCW. I have put probably 8-900 rounds through it without any stoppages at all, but there are a few things that I'd like to address.


5. ??? Is there anything else I might want to do for reliability? I'm really looking for suggestions here.

Thanks guys.

Sounds like there is nothing further to be done for "reliability", other than ditching the POS factory extractor. I agree with Old Fuff that you may want to consider trading your pistol for another one, since the cost of modifying this one will likely exceed just trading it in for a Springfield Loaded model.

[joshh]

I really appreciate all the info. I should have a Brownells catalog coming in a few days, so I can start looking to see what kind of money I'd be spending for parts. I went ahead and took the sharp edges off the grip safety. I plan on shooting it this weekend, so I can see if it is a little easier on my hand.

[joshh]

Well, I ran 100 rounds through her today and had no more cuts on my hand. I guess I can save the $35 it would take to put a beavertail in it.

[HSMITH]

If you do change parts out remember that the EGW hard sear is as good as you can buy and probably the best made, competitively priced too. Extreme Engineering makes the C&S disconnector, again as good as you can buy and from EE it is a little cheaper. EE makes a very good hammer too.

Put a beavertail on that thing before it teaches you to lower your grip. They will do that given the opportunity, and you can never grip one high enough. Chip McCormick makes a nice beavertail with a very high grip, $20 to your door and use a standard .250" radius jig to fit it.

Send the slide out for sight cuts, the Heinie straight eight are VERY nice night sights.

[Will Fennell]

joshh,
You have made a fine choice in basic pistols. You are now looking for the basic "upgrades" to the standard "GI" 1911 that shooters have sought out for years. Reliability, Sights you can see, trigger you can manage, and some fundamental ergonomics. There are allot of pistolsmiths out there that have "packages" built around these features....the one that AK103K pointed out is a fine example. EGW is a VERY well respected shop. There are others....maybe you are local to one which would be a great advantage.

I always ask how much the shop fires the pistol after working on the gun to regulate sights and to ensure reliability........I want to make sure the gun doesn't have to take an extra trip back to the gunsmith.

Here are some parts that I have been happy using in the past....

Wislon Bullet Proof Extractor...

Heinie Sights

STI Grip Safety...but for your Springfield, the Smith and Alexander unit will probally fit up better. Both are good.

Heinie or Grieder solid trigger

Kings or EGW match Bushing if you need it.....you probally don't.

EGW firing pin stop.....a very inexpensive part, but much better than the factory Sp'field part. This would be a good thing to fit along with the new extractor to ensure a nice slop free fit.

You might want to ditch the ILS mainspring housing for a standard unit. THis would help the smith achieve a better trigger pull.

Understand, you are probally going to need a new hammer to go along with the new grip safety. This is the good time for the trigger job as there will be new parts added to the ignition system.

Again, most all of this stuff is covered under a good basic defensive gun package. I believe that the one from EGW covers all these bases.

[Jammer Six]

HSmith, why do you think the EE hammer is "good"?

To my mind, good means to specifications. Original specifications.

Do the parts you mention fall within ordinance specifications? In my small experience, many modern parts do not. The hammer and sear, in particular, have geometry that is altered, and "improved".

[HSMITH]

Jammer, the C&S parts (made by EE) fit up nicely and are nicely prepped right out of the bags. In a gun that is reasonably close to specs the hammer, trigger and sear will drop in for a 3.5-4# pull that is crisp and reliable. Hammer hooks are still .020-.024". Parts are well made, hardened properly and last a LONG time. If the gun is out of spec or has crooked holes there isn't a lot you can do other than work with it.

They are, to my mind, 'new' spec parts. Hammer hooks are square and sear nose is square. A couple hits with a stone on your jig and you can cut the sear under square if you want original spec parts.

With a little work these parts will make a reliable 2# trigger in your competition gun too, a 2# trigger that will LAST.