Flash Hole blockage.............


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DannoU
January 5, 2006, 06:49 PM
:D I just bought a Graf tumbler (with an ON/OFF switch), I ran some 40SW cases for about an hour and a half last night, came out BEAUTIFUL, with one exception.....about 80% of the flash holes were plugged with tumbler media.

I used Lymans corn cob and a couple caps of Grafs non-ammonia brass polish:cuss: . Any ideas? :confused: Are there any "surefire" ways to keep this from happening in the future, makes tumbling more work than necessary for "PRETTY" brass.:D

Early Thanx People!!!;) ;)

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Car Knocker
January 5, 2006, 07:02 PM
The decapping pin will clear the media when you run them through the sizing die. If you're decapping prior to cleaning to help clean primer pockets, I, and many others, don't feel that it is necessary or beneficial for handgun cartridges.

Sport45
January 5, 2006, 07:02 PM
I clean my brass before I size and deprime. All the media stuck in the flash hole is pushed out with the primer. If you deprime with a universal die before cleaning, you can always size with a depriming pin in to clear the flash holes.

In any case, I can't imagine that bit of walnut being a problem even if you left it in there.

tbeb
January 5, 2006, 07:51 PM
I decap/full-length size after I tumble clean.

Lennyjoe
January 5, 2006, 08:17 PM
Me too.

DannoU
January 5, 2006, 09:20 PM
Great Advice Already!!!!

I'm a new member to this "discipline", and already have talked to a school full of
reloading "masters":rolleyes: . It seems to me that I'll have to tumble, decap, clean primer pocket, resize and so on, and so on.

I did try to get ahead by decapping before my tumbler arrived, I'll just rethink my "timing" and with what I've learned so far, NO MORE CUTTING CORNERS! Could turn dangerous!

What do you think about tumbling reloaded bullets, SAFE or UNSAFE? I read a thread where there was conversation about doing this safely. If it can be done, with no thought of DANGER, and no negative effect on reloading results, then that's the way I'll start going. Thanx again!;)

Matt Dillon
January 5, 2006, 10:17 PM
Folks, what I do is tumble with corn cob when I get home from the range, then I deprime, then tumble with ground up walnut. That way I tumble the primer pocket and it doesn't block the flash hole.:rolleyes:

The Bushmaster
January 5, 2006, 10:52 PM
We will try it again...
Olson's Tumbler Media
5040 Cornell Road
Agoura Hills, CA 91301
(818) 706 1710

This media will not get stuck in flash holes and it is around $3 and change a bag and it lasts forever (it helps to run a paper towel square [4"X4"] every once in a while to aide in keeping the media clean). Also I use a real neat tool that I made myself that not only clears flash holes, but also cleans primer pockets in one swipe (or swirl if you wish). The tool is made out of a throttle or choke cable. When you break one or a friend does just trim it about one inch from the guide (thick part) section of the cable handle and whaaLaa. You have a primer pocket cleaner and flash hole clearer.:neener:

jerkface11
January 5, 2006, 11:42 PM
If you don't tumble after you size how do you get the lube off?

Car Knocker
January 6, 2006, 12:05 AM
What lube? If you size straight-wall cases with carbide dies, no lube is needed. A lot of folks with progressives use a dry lube such as Hornady One-Shot and tumble the loaded rounds for a short time. This also works with conventional lube on bottleneck cases.

The Bushmaster
January 6, 2006, 12:13 AM
Car Knocker...Yup...They do that for sure, but One Shot is not a dry lube. It's more of a wax when the propellent evaporates...

The "Drill"
1. Tumble fired cases (new unfired ones too for that matter) for about 15 minutes.
2. resize/decap (inspect) This includes new unfired cases also.
3. Tumble for 1 hour or more. depending on how dirty they are or how shinny you want them. I run them about 2 hours. New unfired cases need less time.
4. Remove them from the tumbler, using my tool clean the primer pockets and inspect them. New unfired cases will not need this step if you use the media I recommend.
5. Measure them using a good caliper and inspect them.
6. Trim if needed. Inspect them. Don't forget to deburr and camphur the case mouth even if you don't trim them if it is the first time reloading.
7. Reprime them and inspect them. Paying particular attention to primer seating depth.
8. Charge and seat the bullet and inspect them again and probably for the last time.
9. Box and record the loading data...

This is an abreviated list of requirements. Others add, take away, or change the order of this list.

Car Knocker
January 6, 2006, 12:18 AM
Picky, picky! OK, "drier lube". MUCH better than that sticky RCBS stuff that folks used for years. Wonder if it would work as well as Imperial Sizing Wax for reforming cases?

jerkface11
January 6, 2006, 12:20 AM
Well not everything i load is a straight walled case. And the media sticks in the flasholes of bottlenecked cases too. And with 500S&W you have to lube carbide or not.

Car Knocker
January 6, 2006, 12:23 AM
So tumble for 10 minutes or so after they're loaded. No fuss, no muss.

The Bushmaster
January 6, 2006, 12:53 AM
Car Knocker...Ahem!!! I use that "RCBS" lube...I tried One Shot on .30-06 and .30-30. It worked quite well on .30-30, but I had stuck .30-06 cases in my resizing die and had to disasemble the die and drive the cases out with a brass drift and a big ballpeen hammer. Of course the cases were not useable after that...I really have not had too much trouble with the RCBS lube. Yup...It is sticky alright, but if you use it sparingly it really doesn't cause that much trouble and it works. I don't load a thousand rounds of .30-06 at a time. More like 20 to 40 cases so hand wiping them with a dry towel is no trouble at all...:D

R.W.Dale
January 6, 2006, 01:18 AM
I use this stuff http://weldaid.com/lubematic.htm slicker than snot on a doorknob. A little bit does a LOOOOOOONG way.

Car Knocker
January 6, 2006, 01:35 AM
TB,

Once I develop a load, I batch load on a progressive. Mostly .308 & 5.56 in rifle cartridges, although 7.5 Swiss is on the horizon. The One-Shot works quite well on those and spares me from the "other stuff". I did use a lot of RCBS lube about 35-40 years ago, though.

That's one of the interesting things about reloading...people can reach the same point by a lot of different paths.

goon
January 6, 2006, 02:15 AM
I tumble pistol rounds before I deprime them.
For rifle rounds, I tumble them before running them into the dies if they are dirty enough to warrant that. If not, I lube and size, then tumble. I use a large pin to push out any media that sticks in the flash holes. It adds an extra step and takes a few more minutes but it is worth it to me to make sure that I am not doing something that could work out to be unsafe.

YellowLab
January 6, 2006, 12:05 PM
Straight walled brass does not need to be cleaned. Carbide dies actually like a little grit.

Most people like shiney objects, so they clean brass.

Walnut will clean the cases better/quicker and will not clog a primer hole (with or without the primer).

Crushed walnut is $15 for about 20lbs at any pet store... look for it in the lizard section. They also have corn cob at pet stores in the bird section... but it is way to large to use for empty case cleaning... works GREAT to clean lube off loaded cartridges.

For rifle cases I dump fires brass into walnut for about an hour, then run through the press, then tumble in the bird cage corn cob (with polish) to clean the lub off. Costs about 1/3rd of what fancy gun store media costs.

donkee
January 6, 2006, 12:48 PM
Grab one of the el cheapo (el cheapo, but a great die! Mine was like 6.00 on sale at midway) lee universal decapping dies. Decap first, tumble, fl resize. Work great.......

The Bushmaster
January 6, 2006, 11:03 PM
Car knocker...."TB" sounds just like a disease:D ...And you are absolutely correct...reloaders do tend to reach the same product no matter what path they take...Happy Shooting....:)

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