[TrapperReady]

I'm in the process of restoring a CMP 1903A3, and just had my first major "Oops". While stripping the finish from the upper handguard, I applied a little too much pressure and it broke in half.

The break is located such that it would be completely covered by the upper barrel band. The two pieces are jagged, but along a very narrowly defined line (if that makes sense), and fit together very well.

Can I use some form of epoxy to join them, or should I use a bedding compound instead. Since it's right over the top of the middle of the barrel, it will tend to get fairly hot when firing (although it IS an old bolt-gun, so we're not talking full-auto temps).

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

[BamBam-31]

Gorilla Glue, maybe? I'd try to buy another handguard.

[TrapperReady]

I talked to a local smith, who mentioned Gorilla Glue, but hadn't tried it himself yet. His recommendation was for slow-set epoxy, which I'll try tonight.

If it doesn't work out, I'll get another handguard. Heck, I'll probably get another one in any event, but I'd still like to try the repair so that I learn something.

[DeBee]

Gorilla glue foams as it cures. Then you have to remove the foam. Not good for repairs... Better for ebony forend tips.

Try some original Acraglas- it's a classic for repairs. After you apply it, wait for it to set up into a putty and carefully remove the excess with a popsicle stick chisel wetted with vinegar...

It ought to hold you in there until you get a replacement...

[cabinetman]

Good afternoon.

Since it's a really clean break, here's the easiest and most efficient way to repair that piece. Gorilla glue is too heavy handed for this job, I think.

Find some water-thin cyanoacrylate adhesive. CA, also known as "instant glue" comes in three viscosities: water thin, syrup, molasses. You can find all three at any good hobby store. Home centers tend to only carry this in very small vials and it's the syrup consistancy. For this repair, you'll want the thin stuff.

Place the two pieces together and turn it upside down so the inletted area is facing you. While you're holding the pieces together, just wick some of this very thin adhesive into the underside of the split. If you can open the split just a hair, the adhesive will run right into the split for you. DO NOT APPLY IT TO ONE SURFACE AND THEN TRY TO MATE THEM! You'll never get it right and once those two surfaces touch, that adhesive will grab.

Once you've applied the glue, immediately hold the pieces together in their final shape for about 15 seconds, breathing on the adhesive line. It'll cure virtually instantly and the two pieces will now be one. You may even see it "gas off". Don't worry if there is any oil on the surface. This adhesive works right through it. Now apply a second bead on the underside of the crack. Let that setup, too. You may want to wipe any excess of but don't use your finger unless you want to be a part of the rifle!

When that's dry (less than a minute), just flip it over and check to see if you've got any excess coming out. IF there is any, it will be minimal. You can continue your restoration in about 15 minutes.

If there is any weeping on the outside, you can clean it with a razor blade you use as a scraper. You shouldn't have to sand at all unless you just want to clean up the seam a little.

I've used CA for years on these kinds of splits, even on rifles that have had an out-of-battery discharge, literally blowing out the side of the receiver area. It's never failed.

Hope this helps. IF you need any further info, please join us at Parallax here:
http://pub109.ezboard.com/fparallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforumsfrm34

Rome

[Okiecruffler]

I've saved big bucks buying military surplus rifles with cracked stocks and fixed them with this stuff. My pappy who was a carpenter for many years clued me on to the stuff when he caught me using Elmers.

[RustyHammer]

.... INSTANT GLUE. Great stuff!!!

see: http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/search.exe?search=instant%20glue&ov=2113