1911 Slide Lock/Release...


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saltydog452
January 9, 2006, 09:03 AM
1. Going back through prior posts by various contributors I found mention that a replacement slide stop cross-pin may need to be 'dressed'.

Assuming that this is correct and that the contributor meant that the diameter of the cross-pin needed to be reduced, how do you go about doing this accurately w/o a lathe?

2. I have a rather long drill rod with cutting tips on both ends. Its use is to drill a slight detent into the slide stop/release or the thumb safety. Its OD is the same as the ID of the plunger tube. Using the plunger tube as a guide, the drill bit is inserted through the plunger tube untill it contacts the slide lock or the thumb safety, whichever needs the 'detent' deepened a bit. A little rotational twist and forward pressure cuts a slight detent into whichever part you're working on, either the slide lock or thumb safety.

How deep should the detent be on the slide lock/release?...and how do you/or should you cut the 'teardrop' shape divot?

3. With aftermarket 'drop in' or 'E-Z Fit' replacement barrels, it would seem that the end user would have no idea what the diameter was assumed to be on the cross-pin portion of the slide stop/release.

With that in mind, I guess what I'm really asking is just how do you install/fit an aftermarket slide stop/release when its to be used in conjunction with an aftermarket barrel whose radius on the lower lug has allready been cut by either the prior user, or the barrel manufacturer?

I'm just trying to understand how to fit one of these dang things so the slide lock don't 'lock' when it isn't supposed to...and for the slightly oversize cross-pin not to break either itself or the 'legs' on the lower barrel lug.


Thanks,

salty.

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1911Tuner
January 9, 2006, 12:25 PM
Hey Jerry,

Don't mess with the pin diameter. That trick is rarely used any more and only because it's easier to reduce the diameter than to refit the lower lugs. The Kart Easy-Fit is designed to be fitted down from the top using the pads forward of the first lug wall.

The Wilson slidestop shouldn't need a detent, but if you find one that you want to cut, the dimple should be about the depth of the drill point. Dimpling the stop is a last resort kinda thing. Generally only used on heavy/bounce-prone extended slidestops.

saltydog452
January 9, 2006, 02:07 PM
Good Morning Tuner, thanks for the reply. I'm just trying to understand a bit about whats going on around the bottom of the barrel.

My questions weren't specifically about Wilson, Brown, C&S, etc., its just about using aftermarket parts be they slide stops/releases, or barrels (other than custom 'hard-fit).

One of the things that you have impressed me with is the notion that when you mess with something, you may have un-intended consequences somewhere else.

So, with replacement slide stops, if I understand you correctly, 'dimples, detents, divots, etc.' should not be necessary unless recoil raises the slide stop up and locks the slide prematurely. ??

Also, the slight difference in cross-pin diameter of aftermarket slide stops (.001-.003) will not cause undue stress on either the cross-pin itself or the feet on the lower lug. This is assuming a non hard-fit barrel...just a replacement 'drop-in' or 'E-Z Fit'. Nothin's gonna break. ??

There was a Gun Show this weekend here in Dallas. (As an aside, I think it was really a Social Gathering of The Dallas Gun Collectors Assn. One guy had a used Norinco..price was 550.00 with the box..Dang expensive box, considering that it looked as though it had been around the world twice and Fort Worth once. He aslo complained that there were just a bunch of 'tire kickers' here today, but no buyers. I was temped to exaggerate the exploits Of The Duke of Nork, but common sense and courtesy prevailed. I predict that if ulflier and kart racer become local war lords competing for the remaining used Norks, they will have some serious competition from The Dallas Arms Collectors Assn.)..Duha, where was I..gun show..Dallas..I bought another slide stop (Ed Brown) and another used barrel.


I'm gonna take the Dremel in for an oil change later this morning...

Seriously, I'm just trying to understand a bit more about links, pins, lugs and feet.

Thanks John.

salty

1911Tuner
January 9, 2006, 03:11 PM
Salty stated/inquired:

>One of the things that you have impressed me with is the notion that when you mess with something, you may have un-intended consequences somewhere else.<

Oh yeah...:p

And:
>>So, with replacement slide stops, if I understand you correctly, 'dimples, detents, divots, etc.' should not be necessary unless recoil raises the slide stop up and locks the slide prematurely. ??<<

Right-o! And...Premature slidelock is generally caused by:
Weak plunger spring/worn plunger pin...Out of spec stop...Bullet nose contact with the side of the lug. (See out of spec) Bullet contact can also be caused by the magazine. (See out of spec again) On rare occasions, a recoil spring that's way too light or heavy can do it...but not often.
********************

Also, the slight difference in cross-pin diameter of aftermarket slide stops (.001-.003) will not cause undue stress on either the cross-pin itself or the feet on the lower lug. This is assuming a non hard-fit barrel...just a replacement 'drop-in' or 'E-Z Fit'. Nothin's gonna break. ??

Not at all. In fact, a max-spec diameter pin (.199-.200 inch) is sometimes used as a quick and dirty way to tighten the vertical lockup in worn or sloppy pistols. How much it helps depends on just HOW sloppy or out of spec
things are...but it can't hurt anything unless the barrel is already locking on the link. Most factory pins are in the neighborhood of .195-.198 inch. FIgure half the difference...or .0025 inch between a .195 and a .200 pin to see how much the larger pin raises the barrel vertically. Not much. The only way that it would cause a problem is if the barrel is already tightly fitted on the .195 pin...and that would be easy to correct.

Old Fuff
January 9, 2006, 04:45 PM
I have occasionally encountered an out-of-round slide stop pin, and its always turned out that the part was investment cast. When in doubt, check... ;)

saltydog452
January 9, 2006, 04:56 PM
Thanx Tuner and Fuff.

sd.

1911Tuner
January 9, 2006, 06:13 PM
I have occasionally encountered an out-of-round slide stop pin, and its always turned out that the part was investment cast. When in doubt, check... ;)

Yep...That's why I like the Wilson BUlletproof for when I want a stop with an oversized pin. Brown hardcore pins are concentric too. Haven't run across an out-of-round slidestop pin in a while...so maybe the castings are gettin' better.

saltydog452
January 10, 2006, 02:22 PM
I got it...

Bill Wilson 'Bulletproof' ='s machined heat treated.

Ed Brown 'Hardcore' ='s cast.

Thanx,

sd.

1911Tuner
January 10, 2006, 03:30 PM
I got it...

Bill Wilson 'Bulletproof' ='s machined heat treated.

Ed Brown 'Hardcore' ='s cast.

Thanx,

sd.

Correct. Note that, in tens of thousands of rounds on two of my range guns that have Hardcore stops in'em, neither one has failed or broken.
I use my beaters not only for recreation, but for test platforms too.

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