Another Coating Thread


January 13, 2006, 11:42 PM
I've searched the previous threads and didn't really find what I want. (I strongly suspect it doesn't exist yet...)

I'm looking for a perfect gun finish which will be 100% effective at stopping rust. I want to be able to coat every internal part, every spring and screw and pin, even the inside of the barrel. Add a synthetic stock, and I want be able to leave my gun lying in the front yard for a year without damage.

Stainless steel rusts; even hard chrome rusts eventually, and most of the fancy paints don't work on springs or small, closely-fitted parts.

I realize this is a pretty tall order, but after all, this is the 21st century. Does such a wonder exist?

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January 14, 2006, 12:26 AM

January 14, 2006, 12:52 AM
NP3 by Robar is probably the toughest thing after you ruled out hard chrome.

January 14, 2006, 01:23 AM
get the microslick treatment on it while you're at it.

January 14, 2006, 01:29 AM
take off the stock then let the whole rig sit in molycoat, if you can afford it. When you put it back together, coat the outside with good ol carnuba car wax.

January 14, 2006, 01:34 AM
"...I strongly suspect it doesn't exist yet..." You're right. Steel is a man-made thing. Nature doesn't like that. Nature wants everything to be in its natural state. Rust is nature's way of returning the components of steel(chiefly iron) to its natural state.
SS is also man-made, as you know, but it takes longer to go back to its natural state. Its high nickle content does it. Nickle isn't ferrous. It's an element. SS is currently the best material for resisting corrosion. The quality of it matters.
Hard chrome is also high in nickle, as I recall. However, one doesn't hard chrome the bore of a barrel. It'll change the bore diameter. Hard chroming adds a few thou of material.
Only ferrous metals rust. Polymers, like those used in Glock frames, don't. Al doesn't rust either. Al will corrode, but it won't corrode like ferrous based metals will.

David W. Gay
January 14, 2006, 01:54 AM
While I don't think it can be used for every metalic part of a gun, I hear Bearcoat ( is an excellent option.


Carry On!

PS: A Bearcoat short story (

January 14, 2006, 08:51 AM
Ah yes good ole bearcoat. If you're nice they may even return all of your gun. :D

Highland Ranger
January 14, 2006, 11:19 AM
Ahhh Bearcote . . . . if I had a spare 6 hours I'd go back and read that thread.

SS is currently the best material for resisting corrosion

Partially true as far as materials guns are made out of.

However there are far more corrision resistant materials, especially for atmospheric conditions (i.e. acid rain, salt water) which are fairly non-agressive.

Let's see if I can still name the alloy hit parade, in order of corrosion resistance, and assuming cast/wrought equivalence:

cast iron, steel(s), stainless steel(s), alloy 20, hastelloy B, Hastelloy C, nickel, monel, inconel, titanium, zirconium . . . . I think I missed a few.

Here's the rub: when you make any machine out of metal, you design around a rate of corrosion and how much loss the part can have and still function.

You also look at whether the material us suitable for it's intended purpose (example, you can't make springs out of everything) Cost is also a factor - steel is dirt cheap when compared to some of those higher alloys.

Anyway, answering the question, if you want to leave it laying on the lawn for a year (or ten for that matter) titanium would do it for you if we were only talking about acid rain. If the gun was on dirt, you'd also have to consider the Ph of the soil.

Coatings: are great. I am really impressed with my HK USPs and whatever they put on there. Problem is, a coating is just that - a coating. Once it wears or scratches, you are back down to bear metal again and the clock starts ticking.

And seeing as how the bullet contacts the barrel on the way out the gun, a few mils of anything will eventually wear off and you're back to steel.

So I wouldn't leave anything made of coated steel lying on the lawn for a year if I expected to use it ever again . . .

Highland Ranger
January 14, 2006, 11:24 AM
Another thought - metals "oxidize" differently.

Rust refers to iron oxide which is associated with alloys made with iron (steel, stainless etc.)

Aluminum oxides differently - essentially the aluminim that is exposed turns to aluminum oxide and forms a "self-sealing" coating of sorts. If I remember correctly, titanium and some of the other alloys work the same way.

So a lot would depend on whether the weapon was moved, or used during that year. i.e. if you used the right alloy, you'd get an initial layer of corrosion and then it would stop.

Jim Watson
January 14, 2006, 11:43 AM
Perfection exists only in the mind of God.
The best attempt I could think of would be stainless steel with hard chrome on the bore and small parts, one of the heat cured coatings over sandblast on the big stuff. But nobody does aftermarket or even factory commercial chrome bores any more, I haven't heard of the old Marker Machine Co. in years. So you would have to start with a military weapon with chrome lined barrel and have it plated and coated everywhere else for protection against neglect.

January 14, 2006, 12:29 PM
Ack... you had to mention Bear Coat.

The Robar NP3 is a step in the right direction. I don't believe there's anything infallable out there, and I've had first-hand knowledge of some CS issues with Robar, but I believe they are still reputable and above-average.

January 14, 2006, 12:32 PM

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