Need info on Hi-Power models CDNN


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JackedLobster
January 29, 2006, 05:32 PM
Hey all. I downloaded the catalog that is available from CDNN investments to boo-hoo about the hi-powers being gone and noticed what they claim to be a SA/DA hi-power at the bottom of page 15. the hammer and trigger guard look a little different and after consulting good olí Janes Gun Recognition Guide I found that they look more like the browning BDA9. anyone know if that is what they are? If they are a hi-power would any other parts work with it?
Also, does anyone have anything bad to say about the SFS model?
I guess I really want an FN and I donít want to wait until I just happen upon one.

Thanks for any help you can offer!!

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saddlebum
January 30, 2006, 12:09 AM
they are hi powers in name only.(sa/da) they have no interchangeable parts with hi powers.

the sfs hi powers are real hi powers with the sfs installed at the factory. i have them and like them. www.randgfirearms.com $399.

donkee
January 30, 2006, 01:33 PM
Here's the SFS in use, in my apartment anyway......


http://webpages.charter.net/donkee/SFSInAction.AVI

may have to download it first to see the video. Just a quickie for those who are wondering about the SFS HPs. It's actually pretty slick.

Northwet
February 1, 2006, 10:13 AM
I bought my FN HP with SFS from Reed's Ammo in Oklahoma City a couple of weeks ago, my first Hi-Power and first 9mm. He had about 300 left in 9mm and 40 S&W for $400 plus shipping. These are marked made in Belgium and have the white slash sights which work better for my eyes than the three dots.
My previous CCW was a lightweight Colt Commander several years ago.
The SFS is pretty slick and after 200 rounds I'm very satisfied with the setup and trigger.
North"wet"

Reed1911
February 1, 2006, 10:49 AM
Northwet beat me to it.....

We have in stock ready to ship the 9mm in Matte, 40 S&W in Matte, and .40 S&W in polished. All run 400 + 20.00 S/H. The website will show them as 420.00 with S/H already included.

saddlebum
February 1, 2006, 12:25 PM
........

Reed1911
February 1, 2006, 04:29 PM
We are more than happy to sell them to anyone, however we do not have a customer counter for pick-up's. :cool:

Northwet
February 3, 2006, 03:09 PM
of my SFS 9mm Hi-Power
North"wet"
http://Northwet.smugmug.com/photos/53893680-M.jpg

marklbucla
February 5, 2006, 02:07 AM
SFS

So lemme get this straight-

You flip the safety up and then you can just decock the gun. Flip the safety down and the hammer cocks on it's own.

That's it, right?

And this is a full blown, legit SA Hi-Power and not some knock off or bastardization of the original design?

axeman_g
February 5, 2006, 09:24 AM
one hundred percent P35 with an extra credit score of 10% with the SFS. These guns are great and actually IMHO have a better trigger then the standard model. I cant explain why, but my sfs model had less grit to it then my standard fn hp.

Great price on a GREAT 9mm.

Reed1911
February 5, 2006, 10:39 AM
The SFS allows you to carry a round in the chamber with the hammer down. After you cycle the action, you gently (not much force is needed) push on the hammer and it moves to the rest position. When you go to click the safety off the hammer rebounds to it's ready position.

So it is not a de-cock in the normal sense, and to engage the safety you don't ever touch the safety lever, just the hammer. And you never have a long DA pull, as soon as the safety is taken off (by using the normal safety lever) you are ready to shoot with the hammer back and the trigger in SA.

Texfire
February 5, 2006, 03:12 PM
The way I've heard the SFS described, pushing the hammer forward puts on the safety, and lowering the safety cocks the external hammer. Is that the case? I
'm a little interested because the hammer I have on my HP is biting me a little bit, and if I replace it I'd consider going to SFS at the same time. The holster with a thumbsnap I purchased for it doesn't allow cocked and locked carry, which would have been nice to know beforehand...

Another thought was picking up a Detective slide for it, though with the cost of the slide, hammer and SFS I wonder if it wouldn't be cheaper to purchase a gun configured that way from the outset.

Tex

Reed1911
February 5, 2006, 04:39 PM
Yes, that is correct.

wrangler5
February 5, 2006, 08:38 PM
Couple of things:

First, the latest CDNN catalog (2006-1) still seems to list the HPs - both regular and SFS. Look at page 22. The regular model now only comes with 10 round mags, so you might end up spending another $50 for a couple of 13 rounders, but then you can never have too many magazines, can you? ;)

Second, the SFS hammer has a VERY small spur, as it is not intended to be manipulated with the thumb. It will NOT bite your hand - it's just too short to reach any flesh. Unlike the standard rowel hammer, which smacks my hand with virtually every shot.

The SFS hammer seems to have some kind of clutch connection to the pin that's driven by the mainspring. You can easily push it forward from cocked, against light spring resistance, and as you do so the safety lever is raised until the hammer clicks into a locked mode at approximately the half-cock position. At this point the hammer, sear and slide are all locked. This is the only way to put the safety "on." You cannot raise the safety lever with your thumb while the hammer is at full cock.

When the hammer is locked forward and the safety on, you cannot cock the hammer manually - you can only flick the safety lever off, at which point the hammer is sprung back to the fully cocked position. I gather that the mainspring remains fully tensioned when the hammer is pushed forward, but of course the safety locks the sear as well as the slide and hammer, and the firing pin block would prevent a discharge even if the hammer pin were somehow released and rotated by the mainspring.

My experience parallels axman's - my SFS trigger is lighter and crisper than the one on my standard Hi Power.

Marshall
February 5, 2006, 09:03 PM
Bottom line, buy one. ;)

Texfire
February 6, 2006, 01:52 AM
I'm tempted, though I'd be torn between getting it installed on my current Mark III or buying another model with it and hopefully a Detective slide. The first would probably be cheaper, but the latter would give me two High Powers, and is that ever a bad thing?

Tex

wrangler5
February 6, 2006, 12:58 PM
In my limited experience, two Hi Powers are always a good idea. :D

Marshall
February 6, 2006, 01:00 PM
Don't screw with your original HP, get the SFS gun and have both. know, easy for me to say but I would always want to have an original SA Hi-Power.

Texfire
February 6, 2006, 01:53 PM
Don't screw with your original HP, get the SFS gun and have both. know, easy for me to say but I would always want to have an original SA Hi-Power.

I wouldn't even think of it if the damn thing wouldn't bite it's master! :)

Tex

ps- I don't really consider it a bad case of High Power bite, I end up with a red patch on the web of my hand, and very occasionally a small break in the outer layer of skin, but not really a "bite". Of course it's entirely possible that I'm just not holding it right...

Texfire
February 6, 2006, 01:57 PM
I just had a thought. I've been talking about installing a Detective slide, and possibly a .22 slide in the future. Am I correct in thinking that the SFS is a totally frame mounted modification not independant of the slide installed?

Tex

Geord
February 24, 2006, 06:13 PM
I just bought a FN Hi-Power 9mm SFS from Reedís Ammo. Iíve used other Hi-Powers, but this is the best. I was surprised at the trigger which broke clean with no creep. Iíve never minded the magazine disconnect as long as the taking up of the slack in the trigger was smooth. Mine was a little gritty, but I made it much smoother by polishing the top 1/2 in. of the side of the magazine, where the disconnect makes contact, and smearing a little grease on that spot. The face of the disconnect can be polished as well, and the disconnect can be better fitted in the trigger. Some grind away metal on the face so that only a small surface contacts the magazine but Iíd have a pistolsmith do those things. Of course the best solution is to remove the magazine disconnect completely, but that opens up arguments that go either way. I can live with it, but others canít.

I have another Hi-Power with a 5 1/2# trigger with the disconnect left in. I might have that done, but that's about all.
Glad I got the Safe Fast Shooting model.

wrangler5
February 24, 2006, 10:25 PM
Texfire, the SFS replaces hammer/strut/mainspring, sear, sear spring, safety levers and slide lock. There are no SFS-specific parts in the slide. Take a look at http://www.cylinder-slide.com/sfs.shtml for a shot of the parts you get if you buy the SFS kit to install on a gun you already own.

Northwet
February 24, 2006, 10:33 PM
I put a slight wipe of teflon oil on the magazine where the magazine release touches on my SFS 9mm. Repeated inserting, releasing of the magazine(s) amongst lots of dry firing and everything is fine, especially after teflon oil has worked down into the internal workings.
Now I have to save up and get another one since the spouse wants to keep this one at home. It's a keeper.
Only thing I've added is Butler Creek rubber grips (never gave the originals a chance), a Wolf 18.5 spring and I use snap caps with a bit of folded cardboard between the hammer and firing pin while dry firing.
Just waiting for my Tuckable Pro from HBE to be finished.
North"wet"

asknight
February 25, 2006, 04:24 AM
The SFS sounds like an absolute nightmare to deal with in general maintenance, disassembly, and reassembly common in cleaning procedures. Not to mention tiny springs and other small parts that are to be lost or worn frequently. Where can I find a schematic for an SFS HP to help persuade me to look at it closer?

Northwet
February 25, 2006, 10:53 AM
I don't know where you're getting that impression from. To strip down for cleaning, the difference from the traditional HP is that you don't lock back the slide before pushing out the pin. Everything else comes apart, just as all Hi-Powers, for field stripping and cleaning.
For reassembly, again the slide is slid back on, align the holes and push the pin back in.
If I ever have to remove the trigger mechanism I'll consult a gunsmith, which I did with my 1911 and a Ruger Mk II that I once had. The trigger pull is nice enough that it doesn't need any additional work in that area.
If you want a schematic, go to the Cylinder & Slide site. They have a JPEG you can download of the exploded view.
North"wet"

JackedLobster
February 25, 2006, 01:43 PM
A little belated, but thanks to everyone for all the great SFS info. It has been both very helpful and interesting. Too bad I still don't know what I want!! :p

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