Reloading military brass


tom barthel
February 3, 2006, 05:37 PM
I'm just curious. I know the military brass is thicker and charges should be reduced. My question is, should the necks also be turned??? I full length resize and trim all brass. Do I need to trake this step as well?


Tom:confused: :confused:

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February 3, 2006, 05:42 PM
Remove the primer crimp. Work up loads from a conservative starting point.

That should be it (besides the usual reloading practices).

Neck turning is not neccessary.

February 3, 2006, 06:11 PM
i use LC 223 brass with great luck. i do no special prep work

February 3, 2006, 07:53 PM
Do yourself a favor and skip the military brass for reloading. Its more trouble than its worth. Get a couple hundred rounds of new commercial brass and dont look back. Its a lot easier to work with and lasts sometimes as much as twice a long as the military stuff.

I would rarely get past six loadings with military brass before I would start to get signs of case head separations, I usually get ten to 15 loadings with commercial(if the case mouths last that long from getting beat up on the concrete) before they are done. I've also had four well lubed military cases get stuck in the resizing die.

February 3, 2006, 09:51 PM
I'm reloading LC brass for my AR and all I do is resize/deprime, swage the primer pockets, and then trim to below maximum overall length. Seems to work pretty well. (at least the first 400 rounds have been good :) )

Have a good one,

February 4, 2006, 12:11 AM
I've reloaded a lot of 9mm with no problems or extra work except reaming out the primer pockets. I have never bought 9mm brass as long as I have been reloading(over 10 years) since that was our issue round. I haven't reloaded any 5.56 or .308 though so I can't answer for that. I just realized that now that the Coast Guard has switched to .40 S&W I'm going to have to start buying brass.

February 4, 2006, 12:36 AM
Several years ago while participating in our club NRA sponsored high power matches I bought a bucket full of 30-06 brass ($.01 ea for the club kitty) and have been using it for years. Most of it is LC68 and works well for me. I've also used it to create several hard to get brass cases like 7.7 Jap, 7mm Mauser, and 7.65 Argentine.

One of the things that I've found is that you need to ream and bevel the primer pocket. I think the primers were (are?) staked in place to prevent malfunctions during combat situations. It would also be beneficial to make at least the first sizing in a set of Small Based dies since the cartridges may have come from several firearms. Trim to length also.

It does take some extra effort to prepare the brass the first time you use it, guess the decision is whether you have more money than time or more time than money.....or maybe I just like fooling around with brass!:)

February 4, 2006, 03:52 PM
Roudy you nailed it.
Lake City .30/06 brass is excellent for reloading.
.30/06 Military dimensions are exactly the same as commercial dimensions and the cases can be used in either type weapon without issue.
When you get into .223/5.56 NATO and .308/7.62X51 it is a whole different game because of dimensional differences between military and commercial chambers.
Military brass in these calibers can be excellent for reloading IF your rifle is cut and headspaced to NATO standards.
(If you own a Military type semi automatic, or a bolt gun built to military standards, have your gunsmith chamber cast and headspace the rifle to determine EXACTLY what type of dimensions were used.)
If the weapon is cut and headspaced to commercial dimensions,(this includes ALL lever action, ALL commercial hunting type semi automatic rifles including the Ruger Mini 14, MOST commercial bolt guns, ALL single shots, ALL double barrel rifles), it is best to avoid NATO-Mil/spec brass like the plague and stick to commercial brass.
Know thy weapon before attempting to reload for it.

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