[Redfern]

When I bought this used gun, I noticed how light the single action pull was, and kinda fiqured that maybe the internals were worked on to achieve the fabulous light trigger.

Now, it won't cock in single action, the hammer just flies back to the frame.

It could be too dirty inside, but maybe the sear was over-stoned, or the 'notch' is worn out.

Has anyone had a similar problem? Should I write S&W and have them repair it (are they even still in the USA) ? Perhaps it is a drop in part I can order from Numich or Brownell, and I can repair the gun myself ?

[Old Fuff]

If you are not experienced it would be unadvisable to try and fix it yourself. I suspect a former owner tried to improve the trigger pull and in the process he may have ruined it. On the other hand he may not have, but you’ll have to find a gunsmith who is knowledgeable about Smith & Wesson’s to know. If both the hammer and trigger have to be replaced the repair bill will probably run somewhere between $100. to $150. This may be why the former owner sold it. Should you send it to the factory? Perhaps. The work will be good, but expensive. All I can suggest at this point is that you need to define exactly what the problem is before you can decide what too do. Good luck.

[Archie]

If so, see if it shoots.

It may have been altered not to shoot SA. (LAPD used to so alter guns in an effort to prevent accidental discharges.)

I find it an offense to shoot S&W revolvers SA anyway.

Is this a pinned barrel gun?

[Lebe]

.

[Albert Shear]

Redfern, Archie is correct. It sounds like the single action notch was removed for double action only. A lot of police depts. did this as well as civilians. My carry revolvers are all set up DAO. It is easily correctable by a gunsmith who can fit a standard hammer as that is all you will need.
Al

[Lone_Gunman]

Archie and Albert... go back and read the original post.

He says when he first got the gun that the SA pull was light... which implies that he must have been able to cock the hammer and fire the gun single action.

This would indicate that the gun was able to fire SA and had not been modified to DAO.

This gun needs to go to a gunsmith, or back to the factory, for a check up.

[Albert Shear]

Lone Gunman- kick me in the behind and call me Shirley!! You are absolutely correct. Stupid me, stupid me.

Redfern, I stand(or sit right now) corrected. I missed that. If the original SA pull was that light and now there is none I agree it needs work only if you want a SA capability. One of my 625s has a SApull of about 1 1/2-2lbs and has pushoff. It is slated for DA only anyway so just a little more metal removal and it is done.
Al

[Sarge]

Look behind the trigger and see if there is a little flat metal protrusion sticking out of a slot in the frame, right behind the trigger. A lot of old Smiths had a trigger stop located here, which locked with a small screw that is accessible only by removing the sideplate. These were notorious for creeping forward and preventing the gun from firing in single action, and in extreme cases could inhibit the trigger from traveling far enough to fire in D/A mode. One of my first assignments as as 'assistant range officer/armorer' was to help remove these from every last Model 15 owned by the department I worked for in those days.

Wish I could get my hands on that 19 of yours, could probably sort it out in 30 minutes or so.

[Archie]

and don't call me Shirley.

Yup. LIGHT sa pull, then none.

However, that should not hurt the timing, so the revolver should be safe to fire as it. Unless you just have to have a SA capability. (I don't hardly ever shoot SA with a revolver.)

Good news is that S&W are easy to work on.