[eastwood44mag]

I bought a used Super Redhawk in fantastic shape from another poster on here (if you're reading this, thanks again). After shooting it, I noticed a pretty substantial build-up of carbon on the front of the cylinder; I tried to clean it off, and can't do it--it won't budge.

Is there any way to get the build-up off the front of the cylinder, or is it there to stay (like the relatives who move in for a couple weeks)?

Thanks.

[lyricsdad]

lots of scrubbin, i use just hopps #9 on my smith and wesson, and its stainless so it shows up easily..

[Savage.250]

I keep a bottle of Sweets 7.62 solvent on hand. Potent stuff though. Lots of amonia. I havn't used it much on newer guns and I've never used it on stainless guns before. If you try it don't get any on the finish of the gun.

[dfariswheel]

As long as the gun is stainless steel, buy a "Lead-Away" type cloth at the gun shop.

This is a heavy, waxy feeling yellow cloth designed to remove carbon and lead fouling from guns.

Simply wiping the cylinder face with the cloth strips the fouling right off with little effort.

DO NOT use on a blued gun, it also strips bluing right off.

These cloths also remove rust, and if cut into patches, will clean lead from chambers and bores.

[hpg]

Go and purchase a yellow cloth called Wipe Away. This cloth will even remove the powder burn circles on the end of the cylinder. hpg

[TOADMAN]

Kleen Bore Lead Away Cloth works well on stainless steel. Probably not good on blued guns.

[denfoote]

Remington Bore Cleaner.
Available at Wallyworld.
Hook ya right up!!!

[JNewell]

Spray with MPro 7, brush, throw it in the ultrasonic, set the timer and go do something more interesting until it's clean.:D

[SAWBONES]

I use a piece of M-Pro 7-soaked 3M green polymer Scotch-Brite scrub pad (cut off a 1-2" square piece at a time, as needed). Scrub gently, as it's abrasive, albeit mildly so. Takes the burn rings right off. Don't use on scandium or titanium guns, as the cylinders have a more delicate coating as a finish, but for stainless and blued cylinders it works fine.
The Lead-Away cloth works too, but it's slower.

[LHB1]

Wipe with Lead Away Cloth dampened with a few drops of Shooters Choice Bore Cleaner for quick, easy removal. Alternate method is to brush with old tooth brush dipped in Shooters Choice Bore Cleaner and then wipe with the Lead Away Cloth. Also works to easily remove blast marks from inside top of frame and around rear part of barrel protruding into cylinder area. ONLY use Lead Away Cloth with stainless gun; have heard it will remove bluing.

Good shooting and be safe.
LB

[Sport45]

Just hit it with a toothbrush and some bore solvent. Doesn't have to look "like new". I think of those stains as cylinder gap filler. Won't try to take them off unless I'm selling the gun.

[lyricsdad]

Remington Bore Cleaner.
Available at Wallyworld.
Hook ya right up!!!
Took the 357 out today, and i had some of this stuff, I always felt it really didnt do the job as it didnt smell strong.. lol but hey if you follow the directs. put a coat of rem oil down, then this stuff.. just a toothbrush and takes all of it right off friggen melted away i tell ya.. wow!

[1 old 0311]

Lead Away will remove the blueing

Kevin

[Andrew S]

Hoppes #9 and a brass brush works just fine for me.

[Working Man]

Don't worry about it too much..... It will come right back next time.
Remove the rings after prolonged use or when it is going to be put away for
extended periods. I use to remove mine after every range trip, now only every
once in awhile. If it's real bad I have found very mild abrasive toothpaste/gel
works great on stainless IMO.

[loud-mouth shnook]

A gunsmith buddy turned me onto Iosso bore cleaner. Comes in a tube, kinda pasty. Squeeze some onto the cylinder face and spread it with a patch to cover the entire area. Also works on the area between the underside of the topstrap and the forcing cone. Let it sit about 3-4 minutes. Rub a patch over the cylinder face and maybe a toothbrush by the topstrap. Only stuff I've EVER used that will totally remove the carbon. Also does the trick, quick and easy, on the fronts of the cylinder flutes.

Note: This was originally tested using a nickel S&W, where the black deposits are most noticeable.

5-6 minutes after starting, all gone. I love that stuff.
A previous poster was right, however. It's just gonna come back.
I only do it for cosmetic reasons but I'm goofy like that. :)

Tell us what you wind up using and how it works.

Good luck!!!!

[dhoomonyou]

heres a link.

works like a charm.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=4956&s=11075

[P. Plainsman]

+1 on yellow Lead Away/Lead Remover/etc. cloths. The best friend a stainless revolver ever had.

Dfariswheel's post above summed up their uses.