Humidity/temp in gunsafe-Solution


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PlayboyPenguin
March 4, 2006, 01:42 AM
I tried a Goldenrod in my gunsafe this week and was unable to get the temperature to increase inside the safe by more than 3 or 4 degrees than the outside temperature. The humidity also only moved slightly. I decided to try something different. I know that halogen undercabs give off some heat so I decided to install one of them in my cabinet. Within a couple hours it raised the temperature inside the safe to 9-10 degrees above the outside temperature. The humidity was a similar result. The light only uses 20 watts. The Goldenrod was 18 watts so i am only using 2 additional watts of power. And it doesn't look to bad either. Anyone else try this? What results did you get? :)

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brickeyee
March 4, 2006, 09:45 AM
Heat is heat.
I doubt the additional ~11% from the undercab will make any difference either way.
It only takes a few degrees to prevent condensation.
The humidity is not going to change much, the slight heat prevents condensation.

JMusic
March 4, 2006, 10:25 AM
I had the same questions and sent a letter to Goldenrod. This is the principle. The temperature of the rod itself is the key. As it raises the temp in that small area around the rod it drys the air. By convection the air then circulates and the drying process continues.
Jim

Car Knocker
March 4, 2006, 11:48 AM
JMusic,

Safes seem to be pretty airtight. Did the folks at Goldenrod happen to mention in their letter where the moisture goes as the air dries?

LHB1
March 4, 2006, 01:25 PM
Don,
My Fort Knox gunsafe has a small (1/2") hole in the top to let humidity out and power cord for Goldenrod into safe. The Goldenrod has kept my guns rust free in safe since buying safe about 20 years ago.

Good shooting and be safe.
LB

SIOP
March 4, 2006, 01:36 PM
Safes seem to be pretty airtight. Did the folks at Goldenrod happen to mention in their letter where the moisture goes as the air dries?

Exactly what I was thinking. He must have talked to the secretary. My understanding is that the moisture is still there, the Goldenrod just keeps it from condensing on the metal inside, as another poster mentioned.

Warm air can hold more moisture than cold air, which is why it is referred to as "relative" humidity in weather reports. Thus if you can warm up the air a few degrees inside the safe, the moisture will remain suspended in the air and not on anything else.

PlayboyPenguin
March 4, 2006, 01:41 PM
In my case, which may be different than others people, the goldenrod was not warming the air enough. I like to keep my home thermostat at 65 degrees. Therefore my utility room in the garage, which is insulated but has no vents, drops as low as 50 degrees. On cold mornings my firearms had a fog on them when I would pick them up. This is caused by moisture settling on them. Since I changed to the halogen light there is no fog on the firearms. :)

JohnBT
March 4, 2006, 02:28 PM
Utility room? Where's the excess moisture coming from? Is there a poorly vented combustion source in there like a furnace or hot water heater? Washing machine? I think I'd put in a couple of wall vents at the floor and ceiling. I don't think I've ever seen a gun sit overnight and have condensation on it (indoors anyway - guns left outside don't count.)

______________________________

"Safes seem to be pretty airtight."

Try the refrigerator door gasket test - shut the door on a dollar bill and see if you can slide it around and/or pull it out. If you can it's not airtight. I have yet to see a safe with an airtight door. The door gaskets don't seal until the heat of the fire hits them and they expand - at least that's what the ads say, I've never had a fire.

(Just for fun, let's calculate a little. If a safe door is 24" x 48", that's 144" of door edge. Multiply that by a crack width of 1/32" and you get a hole that measures 4.5 square inches. Using 1/64" cuts that in half, but 2.25 sq.in. is still a good sized hole.)

I suppose a GoldenRod might work better if the safe had holes in the top and the bottom for perfect circulation, but I haven't had any trouble relying on the crack around the door. My unfinished basement is 50-55* F and damp. Sometimes it's downright wet.

John

Car Knocker
March 4, 2006, 03:06 PM
Try the refrigerator door gasket test - shut the door on a dollar bill and see if you can slide it around and/or pull it out. If you can it's not airtight. I have yet to see a safe with an airtight door.

Actually, mine is. It will clamp tightly on paper that is much thinner than a dollar bill. But then, it's an ancient fire-safe with 4" walls. Fortunately humidity isn't much of a problem in Utah.

JMusic
March 4, 2006, 03:36 PM
Relative humity has to do with the relationship of percentage of moistureto air. As the air warms it expands thus you have a lower relative humidity ratio. (MORE MASS) Gunsafes are not air tight. So as the preasure becomes positive within the safe it escapes, takeing some moisture with it. Take a balloon that has been blown up at room temp and place it in the fridge. You will see how much expantion we are talking about. The removal of moisture from the air is a gradual thing. It can be sped up with a higher temp heater but you also have dangers related to that. My golden rods have been in two safes, both in garages for years and I have had no issues with them. A light bulb works better but then you have IR radiation that will bleach out your stocks. Do what you feel comfy with. If you have a large safe and the moisture is high it may take a few weeks to completely dry the interior. One of my safes has foam rubber the other carpet. Both are sponges. If you have doubts email the company with your concerns. I do admit though they seem like they will not work but they do. I even keep one in a 27 ft cabin cruiser to keep it dry and it does. As an added note I build Pharmacuetical clean rooms where temp and moisture has to be controlled. We do it with the same principles as the golden rod. If you have questions email me personally and I will be happy to have one of mt engineers further explain.
Jim

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