help with mossberg mag tube.


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markyblaze
March 4, 2006, 10:09 PM
....i am really starting to get pissed off here. i've tried using two different strap wrenches from the local home depot. i've used a heat gun with wd40. it still won't budge. i've got blisters on both hands to prove it too. please help me. i'd like to know which exact tube wrench from bronells i should get. part number would be excellent. unless someone in the 909/626 socal area can help me. thanks

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foghornl
March 6, 2006, 12:06 PM
Try a better pentrating oil than WD-40...Such as PB-Blaster or maybe Kroil. One brand I have used, but haven't seen lately is S'OK...came in a green-label spray can.

What worked for me was a soaking with PB, heat source, while still hot, more PB...repeat several times.

I took the mag tube off after my Maverick got dunked in the drink...Never mind WHY it got dunked. . . :cuss:

P.S. If you use a heat source such as a propane or Mapp-Gas torch, DO NOT HEAT TO GLOWING RED THEN TRY TO REMOVE SAID MAG TUBE. YOU WILL WRECK THE MAG TUBE..AND MELT THE PLASTIC MAG FOLLOWER.

Never mind HOW I know this, I just know...

southernwarrior187
March 7, 2006, 04:48 AM
SERIOUS deja vu :uhoh:

foghorn have you posted that story in the past ??:confused:

foghornl
March 7, 2006, 10:06 AM
Yes, I have mentioned that before...

Not wanting someone else to get overly aggressive with the torch...

like me!:o :o :o :o

Spent about $75, including the Mapp-Gas, mag tube, follower and mag spring.

:banghead: :cuss: . Yes, there was much name-calling and ancestry-tracing over the wrecked mag tube.

CaCrusin
March 7, 2006, 08:17 PM
We do it every day and the best way we have found is to use a heat gun and heat the receiver only to about 200 degrees and then have one strong person hold onto the receiver and another twist the tube off. If you heat the tube you make it harder to remove. Mossberg has recently (last two or three years) begun to use locktite on the threads.

CaCrusin :cool:

Wannagohunting
March 8, 2006, 01:06 AM
You have to clamp the last inch of the tube in a smooth jawed vice of decent size and turn the receiver,I have done it on several 500's and have done no damage to the ends of the tubes. It is the recommended way in the Gunsmithing video course.

Onmilo
March 8, 2006, 10:41 AM
markyblaze, so very true.
If you stuff the receiver in a vise, padded or not, and try twisting the tube off you will probably tweek the receiver out of alignment.
You will not only end up with a trashed magazine tube, but a trashed receiver as well.
Vise up the magazine tube in rosined barrel jaws with the receiver bottom facing skyward.
MARK THE LOCATION OF THE MAGAZINE TUBE TO RECEIVER JUNCTION, DO THIS NOW!
Use Dykem Blue, a scratch awl, fingernail polis, whatever but mark the exact spot where the tube and magazine meet.
This will save you function problems later down the road, believe me on this.
This is the most important thing to remember to do!
AR15 barrel vise jaws work just dandy for removing most magazine tubes from shotguns by the way, the powdered rosin will keep the tube tight in the vise jaws and will help prevent marring the tube if it slip turns in the jaws.
Make some pin spacers to fit tight between the receiver trigger assembly pin holes and then run screws rom the outside of the receiver and through the pin spacers and tighten the screws down with washers and nuts.
This will keep the receiver bottoms from collapsing inward if you overdo the Grunt Umph part.
I place two boards that have clearance holes for the nuts and screw heads against the outsides of the receiver and I secure them with a 4" C-Clamp set dead center of the receiver.
I use the C-Clamp as a handle.
Heat the magazine tube to uncomfortable to hold hot, Propane works fine for this, you don't need Mapp gas or oxy-acetalene for this.
Let it cool for about 20 seconds
This heating will break the grip of the Loc-Tite if any has been used and the metal will expand against the heat and as it begins to cool it will contract slightly and make the initial unseat much easier.
Grasp the C-clamp at both curves of the 'c' part and apply steady pressure.
Remember counterclockwise to loosen clockwise to tighten, it doesn't matter which end of the tube you are working from, it works like this both ways.
You will feel the receiver begin to turn free, when this happens give the c-clamp a little grunt umph and the tube should break free and begin to turn away from the receiver.
Once you break the initial set, the tube will unscrew with very little effort.
BE CAREFUL WITH A MOSSBERG, remember that pesky magazine spring and follower are still in there and when that tube comes free from the receiver they will shoot out with considerable force if you are not controlling them.
Oh and once you get that magazine tube off consider replacing the cheap plastic follower with a stainless or anodized aluminum aftermarket model, either one of these will still be useful even if the rest of the gun rusts away.
While you are at it add a high quality replacement stainless steel magazine spring and you should never need to do this little feat of fun again, at least not to that shotgun.
Assemble in reverse of takedown, I use two drops of Loc-Tite GREEN, one drop on opposite sides of the threads.
Screw down EXACTLY to the witness mark you made on the tube, no more, no less, let the loc-tite cure for a couple of hours and put the blaster back together.
Oh yeah, did I mention this is why professionals charge $50.00 or so to do this kinda "WHAT! Cripes, you're ripping me off!" kind of work??HTH

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