[Tight_Wad]

The DGW catalogue states that when replacing cones/tubes on percussion revolver cylinders, the hammer should rest just shy of the cone by a few thou, i.e just enough to crush a cap but not enough to strike the cone directly. I've heard this several times before and it strikes me that this could take considerable time and trouble in stoning and adjusting cones and I just wondered how many people out there actually bother to do this?

Is the reasoning that:

1. a direct hammer blow will shorten the life of the cone, and/or

2. a direct hammer blow will cause unneccessary wear on the cylinder and adversely affect end-float?

or doesn't it really matter?

Just wondered. Comments?

Tight Wad

[Third_Rail]

I personally don't care about that particular aspect. I've fired well over 200 rounds now, and I've not had a problem with the hammer getting marred or anything of the like.


I suppose it would be good overall, but how many people in history have done it?

[mec]

I've read that in several places and have discounted it. It's hard enough to get some caps to go off without further complicating things. Also, particularly with Colt times, there is usually a mild to moderate amount of cylinder end float which varies with the tightness of the wedge, and probably changes over time as the gun is shot and even how clean it is at any given time. I don't see much chance of precision headspacing to land the hammer just shy of hitting the nipple.

Since I generally avoid dry firing without caps, I have not peened any nipples. I guess the caps cushion the hammer blow fairly well. A while back, I did loose one and when I ordered replacements, VTI talked me into buying a couple of dozen of them for the navy/army revolvers.

[Tight_Wad]

Thanks guys

It's as I thought I guess.

I also shoot a Pedersoli LePage .44 percussion pistol and the hammer nose on that rests firmly on the cone. Been using it (occasionally) for ten years and it still has the original factory cone fitted with no sign of damage/wear. As mec says, I rarely dry-fire and if I do it's always with a cap on the cone. When you think about it, a revolver cone only gets stuck once in every six-shots anyhow and at that rate they should last quite a long time.

As an aside, I used to adjust the wedge on my old Uberti .44 Dragoon using an automotive feeler gauge between the cylinder face and barrel. After only six to twelve shots the gap used to widen measurably.

I don't think it's possible (or desireable) to adjust percussion revolver cones to such a fine degree. They're not exactly precision instruments are they!

Tight Wad

[Manyirons]

Smith advises he does this to a .001 gap just to allow dry firing on SOLID frame revolvers without tha cylinder float.

He confirms unless weird mismatch, say a 1 inch cone (Doesnt exist) you'd wanta trim them otherwise, MEC is right on!

[mec]

"I don't think it's possible (or desireable) to adjust percussion revolver cones to such a fine degree. They're not exactly precision instruments are they!

Tight Wad"
and;

"....on SOLID frame revolvers without tha cylinder float."

QUOD ERIT DISPUTANDUM!

[gmatov]

"....on SOLID frame revolvers without tha cylinder float."

Which revolvers are those, that have no cylinder float?

I have 4 Rems, including one new unfired a few days old. ALL have float, to some degree, 2 to 5 thou, haven't used feelers on them yet, mebbe tomorrow. And the Rems have a counterturned bushing on the cylinder to limit that.

A brand new Smith will have some float, a Ruger centerfire, likewise.

A properly fitted Colt type should not have over 6 thou cylinder/barrel gap, the tighter the better, down to 2 or 3. Hell, even the Reb guns of the Civil War Armouries were being made with too much gap and float til the CO jumped on the makers to correct the problem, sending all those with too big a gap back to be correctly fitted.

Those are without a bushing to hold them back, restrained by the recoil shield one end, the breech of the barrell, the other end.

Cheers,

George

[Manyirons]

Well let me correct my lil inaccurate self! When tha 'smith gets done, they aint got NO cylinder float!

[Beartracker]

Without cylinder float on these cap and ball revolvers they would really be hard to maintain smooth reliable function due to crud buildup and binding of the cylinder and frame. It's not that easy of a task as it is, just ask the cowboy action shooters if they would like a tight fitting cylinder :uhoh: Mike

[Manyirons]

Beartracker! Not ta with anythin but respect disagree, mine work alla time all day, ever day, no problem.

Somethin about KNOWIN HOW. THATS why ya pay tha man the big money, talent&skill.

[Manyirons]

Asked once, 'smith in good mood, mentioned, makes new cylinder (For tha fifty and fifty eight caliber conversions) 'man the cylinder as precision gauge makes' (Thats how he talks but sounds like an english lord, WEIRD).

Point is, everthin on revolver is fitted to a cylinder any tool&die maker would consider tha work of a god (I've measured them, NO deviation ANYWHERE!) and they're done RIGHT! Tha 'smith ethics on this MORE than clear, think he'd die afor sending out anythin less than three times what ya paid for!

Even tha tune jobs just dont quit cause tha man considers these as WEAPONS ta be used FOR REAL not toys! (He is adament on tha point)

I DONT know other than tha results how he does it, jus know they WORK!