Old beaten up 10-5...should I fix it up?

[N3rday]

Okay...my dad has an old beaten up S&W model 10-5 he got from a friend, it's presumed the gun is a former law enforcement weapon, as someone carved '35' on the frame.

It's got a few problems. For one, when I pull the hammer back, the firing pin wobbles quite a bit back and forth. Now, I'm no revolver expert, but that can't be good, can it?

Second, I don't remember what this is called (headspacing perhaps, or maybe I've just been on AR15.com too much), but the area between the frame and the back of the cylinder...the part that's supposed to be between .002 and .006 in measurement...well, I've read that you're not supposed to be able to put a credit card in that gap, but my debit card fits in there (it doesn't even snag).

Third...and I don't know if this is a problem, but when I look down the barrel (all safety rules applied, of course), the rifling doesn't look so sharp...the rifling looks more like lines than I think it should, but then again, this is the only example of rifling I've seen in person.

Fourth...Cylinder wobbles a bit from side to side...not too much, but it doesn't end up in exactly the same position, it stays left if I move it left, and right if I move it right.

Frames got plenty of nicks and the blueing is wearing off a tad bit in some places, but I don't care so much about that.

So...what all can I do about these problems? How many of these problems are repairable? Can this poor guy be saved?

[SaxonPig]

The gap you want to measure is between the rear of the barrel and FRONT of the cylinder, not the back of the cylinder. The Model 10 is not counter-bored so there must be room at the back of the cylinder to allow the cartridge rims to fit. Around .003-.008 is normal, but I have one that goes .011 and seems to work fine.

The firing pin will wobble a bit. This is normal. If it does seem excessive it might need replacing or repair.

Have you thoroughly cleaned the barrel? You might be seeing lead build up covering the rifling. It's darn hard to wear out the rifling on a .38 revolver.

Is the cylinder moving when closed? That might be excessive play. Remember that these moving parts must have some clearance to work. A gunsmith can tell you in a few moments if things are too loose.

I wouldn't sink a ton of dough in this gun because a nice M10 that needs no work can be bought for $200-$250 all the time. If it needs $100 or less in tuning then I say do it. You really need a smith to give it a once over.

[Coronach]

Look at the sticky at the top of this forum, Used Revolver checkout.

That should answer a lot of your questions.

Mike

[N3rday]

OH, so what the heck does that cylinder gap measure? I don't see ANY measurable gap between the cylinder and the barrel. I'd be hard pressed to measure it.

I've looked at that used revolver thread, that's what got me here in the first place...until I looked at that I thought this revolver was in good working order!

[Coronach]

It might very well be just fine. None of them sound abnormal, except for maybe the rifling and the cylinder wobble...and even then they might be fine.

1. Clean the bore. There's a good chance it is just dirty. If you don't know how, just ask. :)

2. WITH AN EMPTY GUN, POINTED IN A SAFE DIRECTION cock the hammer, then hold it as you pull the trigger. Ease the hammer down, keeping the trigger to the rear. You will end up with the trigger pulled all the way back and the hammer resting all the way down. Now, keeping the trigger pulled back, see how much movement there is in the cylinder. While a lack of 'play' and 'endshake' is desirable at rest, this is (to my understanding) the point at which it REALLY matters- full lock up. This is the point at which the bullet leaves the cartridge and starts its trip downrange...you want the cylinder to index precisely at this point and feel pretty solid.

Real revolver smiths and shooters can advise you better...but provided these two things check out ok, I bet you have a functional shooter.

Mike

[ugaarguy]

OH, so what the heck does that cylinder gap measure? I don't see ANY measurable gap between the cylinder and the barrel. I'd be hard pressed to measure it.

Yes it's going to be tiny, but you measure the gap with feeler gauges. You should be able to pick up a set at any auto parts store or the local Sears. If you have a friend who has lots of tools and/or works on cars alot he'd probably have a set.

[XavierBreath]

I suggest that you sit in front of the computer screen with the revolver in your hands if possible, and follow Mr. March's procedure. That is what I did when I first learned it. Go step by step, and eat the elephant a bite at a time.

The firing pin should pivot on the hammer.

There will be some play in the cylinder at full lock-up. Without play, the revolver cannot function. The question is does the chamber align with the bore at full lock-up again and again? Fore and aft play tells more than starboard to port play. It would be unusual for a Model 10 to have excessive fore/aft play (endshake), but it is possible on a high volume gun.

Cylinder gap is measured between the cylinder and forcing cone. In good light it can be eyeballed with a bit of experience. Otherwise use feeler gauges on a cleaned gun.

As far as the rifling, chances are the barrel simply needs a good cleaning.

The Model 10-5 is one of my favorites. If you are skiddish about any of this have a gunsmith check it out. There is a very good chance that you have a nice beater/shooter that would be perfect for a no worries working gun. Oil it, shoot it, clean it, and oil it again. Value on a well kept Model 10 is about $250, with beaters plentiful between $100-150, so don't invest to much in it. Just enjoy it for what it is, a great old gun.

http://www.bayourovers.com/bothModel10-5s.jpg