Should some Brass no be reloaded?


May 1, 2006, 01:05 PM
I have been reading a lot of posts and a lot of folks say that they won't reload X brand of brass ao Y brand of brass.

So I guess my question is are there some types of brass that should not be reloaded????????

I am just now starting to reload .45 Acp and have amassed quite a lot of it and now I am thinking I should sort it by brand???????

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May 1, 2006, 01:22 PM
I cannot think of anyone who has said anything positive of AMERC headstamped brass. I made the mistake of having some in my collection and it just about jammed into my crimp die, the brass was so thick. Winchester NT headstamped brass uses a small pistol primer instead of the large, so it can cause problem in a progressive press or if you're not aware they use a small primer. Most avoid it, but some load them with the small primers and they seem to work fine that way. That's about the only two I hear about often.

Military brass is great but they have crimped in primers and the crimp has to be removed to allow a new primer to be seated. You can bevel it out or swage it out with a swaging tool. It can be a hassle when there is so much non-crimped brass around. Running into a handleful while running a progressive press can be frustrating!!

May 1, 2006, 01:37 PM
AMERC is only good for recycling. I also have had difficulty with overly tight primer pockets on S&B brass.

May 1, 2006, 02:01 PM
Question on the Amerc brass...

I found some mixed in with mine. What ammo does this stuff come from originally? I've never seen it before.

May 1, 2006, 02:53 PM
Amerc is short for American ammunition, made in the states. About the most inexpensive stuff you can buy, even cheaper than Wolf. I have not fired it in 45 acp due to all the horror stories. Comes in a blue box last time I checked.

May 1, 2006, 03:02 PM
I've had problems with some batches of Remington brass - the thickness at the case mouth was several thousandths of an inch thinner than any other brand of brass I've encountered. NONE of my sizing dies (Dillon SDB Carbide, RCBS Carbide, and an old RCBS steel die) would size it down enough to grip a bullet properly.

May 1, 2006, 09:24 PM
AMERC is a definite. Also ran into some PMP .45 ACP brass that would not size enough to retain the bullet. After sizing and charging you could push the bullet all the way down by finger. Tossed that stuff.

One other thing I ran into was with nickle Winchester brass. Same effect as the PMP on certain casings. Some Winchesters worked while others didn't. Pitched the bad brass and pressed on with the rest.

May 1, 2006, 11:48 PM
The only .45 brass I don't load is A-Merc. I think A-Merc in Latin means something really, really bad and unprintable.

A lot will depend on your sizing die(s). I've never found .45 brass too thin to reload, but I have several different sizing dies in that caliber, as well as most other pistol calibers I load. You'll find that some of the older brass in R-P and WW is pretty thin, but the newer brass is somewhat thicker.

I've found that the thickest .45 brass is the newer Winchester, with the whole word spelled out on the headstamp. The older WW and WCC brass is somewhat thinner. The next thickest brass is Federal, with PMC right behind it. Speer and Starline are next down in thickness, with R-P bringing up the rear.

In the foreign brass, CBC (Magtech) is pretty good, as well as S&B, but as noted, S&B will have tight primer pockets, but my old Hollywood press primes it without any problems, but my RCBS Rockchucker doesn't do as well. I don't prime any brass on my Hornady Pro-Jector, since I like to feel the primer bottom out when seated, and the single stage presses do that best. I have several hand priming tools, but I still prefer the RCBS and Hollywood presses for that chore, since it's so important.

Back to foreign brass. IMI (TZ & TZZ) isn't bad, with the TZ & TZZ being a little thicker, since it was made for military contracts. The IMI headstamped brass is a little thinner than the military marked brass. PMP, made in South Africa, is a little thinner, about like R-P brass. The Greek brass, marked with Greek figures that appear as nny, seems to vary in thickness. Some is thick and some is thin. My new Springfield XD .45 acp was fired with nny ammunition at the factory and one of the cases accompanied the gun.

Some of the new non-toxic primed brass has small pistol primer pockets, and some of it is crimped. I just remove the crimp and load them with small pistol primers and use the loaded ammunition for plinking. It works fine, as long as you keep them separate. Some foreign .45 brass has used small primers for years, and it all works. You'll also find that some of the non-toxic primed brass from Winchester and Federal has very large flash holes. This isn't a problem and it will load just like the rest of the brass. I've confirmed this with both Winchester and Federal, and have been loading this brass since it first came out.

Some of the "brass" that shouldn't be loaded is A-Merc, as noted, Wolf, which is steel cased, Blazer aluminum, which is Berdan primed and not designed to be reloaded, even with Berdan primers, since they use a unique size primer, and steel cases from World War II, usually marked EW 43. Also, any case that has been seriously deformed shouldn't be reloaded, since the creases cause weak spots in the case walls.

Always inspect your brass for splits and deep dings, and discard those. Recycling is best, since scrap metal prices are going through the roof. Just put the unloadable brass (not steel or aluminum) in a box and when you get enough to make it worthwhile, take it to the scrap dealer and walk away smiling. It's been about 6 months since I took any to the scrap dealer, but I got .94 cents a pound for my scrap brass and spent primers, which was over 300 pounds. I'm told the price has gone up considerably since then. Most dealers will also take aluminum Blazer cases, but they don't pay a lot for them, since the primers are brass and they consider it "dirty" metal, meaning there is another metal mixed with the prime metal. I just hate to see anything go to waste when it can be reused. I even take the steel cases and get about .06 cents a pound for it. Beats throwing it in the trash and the materials are reused.

I'm sure I've missed some issues, but at least hit the highlights.

Hope this helps.


May 2, 2006, 03:23 AM
Anyone know who makes brass stamped PMP?

May 2, 2006, 03:54 AM
Pretoria metal pressings.
South african, usually associated with denel.
Good stuff.
Their military stuff (With crimped-in primers) are berdan primed, their commercial stuff is boxer primed. I wish some other companies did it this way.
Their commercial brass is very good, as good as any domestic 1x fired brass.

May 2, 2006, 07:36 AM
no problems with AMERC at all.

First, I've owned a Dillon RL550B for about 8 years and

Mostly I've shot .45 acp in Colt/DGFM/Springfield/SIG/ Remington Rand/Ithica and other brands of 1911's (God Bless John Moses Browning) but I also owned a couple of subguns in .45, so I was running through several thousand rounds a year for a while and always like to stay a few thousand rounds ahead - just in case.

I bought a Dillon XL 650 on this board two years ago, and got it up and running about a year ago. I use Dillon carbide dies, and Winchester primers exclusively. CCI's are deeper/taller and don't always eject on the press. That can change a 1200 round/minute rhythm into 800 'cause you're always having to pull out cases from the priming station with the primer about 90% ejected.

I just recently loaded 5,000 rounds of .45 acp, 2k R-P brass and the rest mixed range brass including just about every brand out there.

Here's what I've found:

PMC brass? Have not had the problem of it not resizing properly. It's probably recycled from the tonnage of brass left over by UN forces in South Korea 50 years ago. It's soft. So soft that rounds I've kept track of have the headstamp obliterated after 6 reloadings/firings.

Primer pockets? Whoever invented that NT crap should be taken out and hung up by his thumbs until he repents. That goes to the recyclers.

Federal brass is good. primer pockets run 0.207" I.D.

S&B, while hard brass, resizes easily w/ a little case lube (I use Dillon). Primer pockets run 0.206" I.D.

WWII brass (headstamps like E C S 42) is good for reloading, but w/ primer pockets at 0.199" ID needs to be swaged, another time killer.

No other problems w/ other mfrs. I kept the three cases on my bench after mic'ing them years ago when I first ran into this problem. I thought SAAMI standards were industry-wide. Apparently not.

Have fun.

Family Medicine, Firearms Counseling
socialist occupied Maryland
state of impending dhimmitude

The Bushmaster
May 2, 2006, 12:11 PM
Normbal...I realize that the NT brass requires proper sorting, but when loaded using small pistol primers (magnum or standard) they do very well. Just as good as the rest of the brass. Winchester and Federal were trying to satisfy EPA (who ever invented them "should be taken out and hung by [their] thumbs until [they] repent":D ). Other then that no problem with NT brass. I hand sort by head stamp every piece of brass that crosses my bench anyway.

There are few manufacturers of brass cases that aren't good for reloaders. All seem to do the job over and over. A-merc is the exception. Absolute junk. GFL runs a close second on the list of bad brass. After one or two loadings the primer pockets get real loose (I hate when a primer backs out in the magazine of my .45 ACP. Powder every where:cuss: ).

May 2, 2006, 01:57 PM
I don't reload Amerc or GFL.

May 2, 2006, 03:51 PM
GFL= Fiocchi,IIRC.
I've had trouble with Amerc,and occasionally with S&B or TZZ in .45 due to thick case walls. Auto pistol cartridges are finicky about brass IME.

My best advice is to load what you find. You'll learn by experience what you do and don't like.

May 2, 2006, 09:18 PM
Good stuff
Maybe for you but every one I tried to load was as loose as a 50 yr old hookers bottom.

After sizing the brass you can push the bullet all the way down into the case by hand without using a press. :(

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