Arrrghhh!!! I can't get my MkII back together!!!


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Dorrin79
April 27, 2003, 04:39 PM
So I decided to clean my MK II after shooting it with a friend yesterday who commented "Wow, that gun is dirty!"

Got it stripped, cleaned.

I can't get the stoopid mainspring back into the back of the grip, such that the bolt can operate. I've managed to get the mainspring in, but then the bolt only comes back a 1/2 inch and wont cycle.

Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong?!?!? I've reassembled this gun before but I just can't get it this time, and I'm getting really frustrated.

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larryw
April 27, 2003, 04:49 PM
The trick is getting the hammer strut into the recess in the mainspring housing.

Insert bolt, point muzzle down and pull trigger so hammer falls forward (you may need to use a screwdriver or something to push it forward). Insert mainspring housing and rotate gun so muzzle is down at a 45* angle with the magwell up. Swing housing closed. If it fits flush, the strut missed, do it again. If the housing is sticking above the frame just a bit, lower the latch, you're good to go.

Destructo6
April 27, 2003, 04:53 PM
You should feel a little resistance right before you close the mainspring assembly into the grip. That's the hammer strut hitting the mainspring. If it closes with no resistance, try it again.

You still have the Ruger instructions, right? They cover reassembly pretty well.

Brad Johnson
April 27, 2003, 06:17 PM
Go to the Ruger website and download the Owner's Manual (if you don't have yours close at hand). Follow the instructions TO THE LETTER. It may take you a couple of times to get the hang of it, but you will eventually be able to disassemble / reassemble your Ruger in only a few seconds.

Brad

Kruzr
April 27, 2003, 07:05 PM
Better yet, go to yzguy's website and follow the instructions and pictures. The problem you are having is as stated above, you aren't getting the hammer strut into the top of the mainspring. You have to point the muzzle down to get the bolt stop pin in and then you have to point the muzzle straight up when closing the mainspring housing. You have to make sure the hammer strut isn't caught behind the frame pin. It must be hanging down when you swing the MSH up. See this page:

http://www.1bad69.com/ruger/field_strip.htm

jem375
April 27, 2003, 09:32 PM
Another good website for the MK2
www.ontargetguns.com/rtips.html

yzguy
April 28, 2003, 01:19 PM
also check my Problem/Cause/Solution page:
http://www.1bad69.com/ruger/field_strip_pcs.htm
(yours is the first one.... :) )

I also see I got a link from Bill at on Target!! :)

Jesse H
April 28, 2003, 01:32 PM
I've had my 22/45 for about 3 years now. Finally put it back together w/out the instructions for the first time last night since I usually wait so long inbetween cleanings I forget.

Got it together on the first try too. :p

clown714
April 28, 2003, 05:22 PM
been there,done that:neener:

clown

bountyhunter
April 28, 2003, 05:53 PM
It's a Polish IQ test. I flunked about five or six times. here are words of wisdom: if the bolt stop pin won't go in, point the gun at the ground, pull the trigger and shake it a bit. That usually clears it up. Before you try to "lock in" the mainspring housing, peek in and see where the hammer strut is. If it's stuck forward, reach in with a toothpich and move it back. Then watch it as you rotate the mainspring housing back into the frame and make sure it stays on track. You can do it.

AZ Jeff
April 28, 2003, 06:24 PM
I have owned Mark I's, Mark II's and .22/45's over the years, and never had ANY TROUBLE with reassembly with the following tricks:

1. Install bolt into barrel assembly prior to mating with grip.

2. Be sure hammer is in the "UP" position PRIOR TO INSTALLING BARREL on grip. The front face of the hammer should be perpendicular to the bore axis when the hammer is up. (Sear friction on hammer will keep it in the up position, provided the trigger is not touched during reassembly.)

3. Use care to install barrel/bolt assembly, slipping hammer up into recess in bolt without dislodging hammer from vertical postion. This installation process is not as tricky as it sounds.

4. Once barrel assy. is seated reaward against it's lug on the grip, install the bolt stop pin (part of the mainspring housing assy) into the rear behind the rear sight.

5. Flip entire pistol UPSIDE DOWN, thus allowing hammer strut to flip out against mainspring housing.

6. Close and latch mainspring housing as dictated in instructions.

This has proven for me to be MUCH easier than the complicated instructions provided by Ruger, and has worked on a bunch of pistols equally well.

Handy
April 28, 2003, 06:38 PM
Not to be contrary, but the only "tricky" part of the assembly is the stuff involving the strut.

Once you get the bolt barrel and frame together, just play with it, muzzle up and down, and use the trigger to release the hammer forward (no tools or sequencing necessary). The point is to look at where the internals are and what they are doing.

Once you understand how to guide the hammer and strut into the positions you need, you won't have to remember any steps. Just stick it together and line it all up.

AZ Jeff
April 28, 2003, 06:59 PM
Handy, I agree that, once one understands the mechanics of the Ruger rimfire autoloading pistols, it's no big deal to manuver the pistol to get the strut to flop to the right spot so the mainspring housing will close properly.

That said, there ARE some persons who have trouble visualizing the arrangement of the parts inside the frame, and teaching them a rote memory way of assembling the pistol is one way to avoid the aggravation of assembling this wrong.

It's sort of like assembly/disassembly of the M1911 pistol. There are lots of ways to do it, but the official Military way is the one that makes it easy for the less mechanically inclined to insure proper function after assembly...........

Dorrin79
April 28, 2003, 11:34 PM
thanks all

yzguy's instructions helped me get it back in working order on my first try

alamo
April 29, 2003, 05:49 PM
I don't own a Ruger .22 but it sounds like putting them back together can be challenging. I was reading my new issue of "Handguns" today, a company has developed a "Speed Strip Kit" for Ruger .22s.

It is $49. Might be a good investment for those who shoot a lot and/or have difficulty with reassembly:


http://www.majesticarms.com/ruger22.html

Handy
April 29, 2003, 05:56 PM
If you know what you are doing, the "Speed kit" is actually slower, as it requires you to use an allen wrench.

The kit seperates the bolt stop from the mainspring. So when you strip you pistol, the mainspring is left in place.


I would have a really hard time spending 25% of the gun's value on a device that prevents you from field stripping without tools, and is unnecessary. They are making their money on the frustration of new MK II owners.


Alamo, no flame intended. I just don't like that thing.

alamo
April 29, 2003, 05:59 PM
None taken, just happened to notice it today. That is quite a bit for it.

yzguy
April 30, 2003, 10:56 AM
I thought about the kit when I first got mine (after hearing about everyone having problems), but the kit will also keep you from using a few other parts (not compatible), and as was mentioned realy does not help much, if at all. I'm glad I did not get it... (money was better spent on a new hammer, and sear!! :) )

jem375
April 30, 2003, 11:43 AM
I just ordered 2 of the speed kits and think they are going to work great........and I would like to see Handy disassemble and assemble the MK2 faster than the kit and the allen wrench.....Ruger made a mountain out of a molehill when they designed the takedown of the MK2........Of course, I will have to put the kit on and try it out, but, it looks like a time saver for cleaning after a day at the range..........

Jesse H
April 30, 2003, 12:43 PM
If everything falls in place on the first try, I wouldn't think doing it the "hard" way would take me longer than 20 seconds.

Now I'm curious...I'll time myself tonight. :-)

Handy
April 30, 2003, 01:26 PM
Jem,

With the assistance of a shell casing, I can strip a Mk II in about 5 seconds. After you get the mainspring undone, the gun falls apart. Maybe 20 to put it back together. 22/45s are faster, due to the lower tension on the mainspring body.

I'm not bragging. Anyone who's done it a several times can do it that fast.

I think a MkII is easier to assemble than a 1911, for instance.

cordex
April 30, 2003, 02:05 PM
Handy is right (but I've been using a paper-clip like a sucker). If you're just looking to field strip, the MkII is a cinch and probably easier than most 1911s.
If you're taking it down to component parts, the 1911 wins by far.

Norton
April 30, 2003, 03:51 PM
The problem that I had with my new MK II was getting the relationship between the bolt, barrel assembly and frame correct.

The suggestion of a couple of light taps with a wooden hammer is a good one.

One thing that has worked for me is to look at the relationship of the "reveal" (don't know what else to call it) between the barrel assembly and the curve where the rear of the barrel assembly meets the frame, before I disassemble. Simply remembering what it's SUPPOSED to look like so that the holes line up has made a world of difference in lowering my stress level when cleaning this firearm.

Handy
May 1, 2003, 12:57 AM
Earlier today, I made a boast that I could strip a Ruger in 5 seconds, and reassemble in 20. But I did not test myself until now.

Test gun: Ruger 22/45 with blued 4" bull barrel and factory sights.

Test chronometer: Seiko Divers 200m Automatic with sweep second hand.

Test protocol: Looked at watch, performed disassembly/reassembly, looked at watch.

Test results: I took it apart in 3 seconds. After two practice runs, I put the Ruger back together in 13 seconds. If you add one hour to totally clean the weapon, that's 1 hour, 16 seconds.



Jem, I'd be happy to teach you the technique for just $98, plus travel expenses.

jem375
May 1, 2003, 01:17 AM
yeah, right...........

Detritus
May 1, 2003, 02:15 AM
a while back while browsing Rimfirecentral.com i noticed that a rather high number of MkII owners over there that had bought the speed strip kit, seemd to veiw it as the stupidest firearms buy they had made.

seems there is a bit TOO high a chance of even an experienced, mechanically knowlegeable and careful gunowner breaking one of the parts (hammer strut i think) the kit interfaces with while trying to install the kit. and that each time the mainspring portion is removed for cleaing or other needs, that the likelyhood of breakage goes up.


my personal oppinion after having delt with both a MkII and what i am guessing would be a Mk1 (not so marked but..) is that if a shooter spends a reasonable amount of time "getting to know" the pistol that there is absolutely no need for that kit.

and if there is a possibility that trying to install it is going to BREAK my gun! it can stay right where it is and leave me and MY guns the heck alone!!:what:

AZ Jeff
May 1, 2003, 11:59 AM
Well, Handy appears to have laid down the challenge. Now I have to see if I can beat his time.:D

Graystar
May 1, 2003, 12:15 PM
Handy, does that include removing the barrel or just popping the bolt out?

Handy
May 1, 2003, 12:17 PM
Well, game on! But remember that mine is a 22/45 and is easier to unlatch the mainspring and the barrel and receiver aren't very tight either. But the "tricky" hammer strut is the same.

MkII challengers get to use a paper clip or something.

Yes, that includes removing the barrel:

On the subject of tight frame/barrel fit, my old SS MkII smoothed up after a few disassemblies. Oil helps. We never used a mallet, just held the frame and pushed the barrel into the work bench, muzzle or back end as needed.

My brother was 13 when we got the gun. He was not a big kid, or super mechanically inclined, but he had no trouble after the first couple of goes.

Norton
May 1, 2003, 12:28 PM
along the lines of opening up the mainspring....I've found that a standard bobby pin end works perfectly, no bending or alteration necessary. Plus, when I lose it....the wife is happy to "loan" me another :D

Kruzr
May 1, 2003, 01:22 PM
I've found that the perfect completely non-marring tool for opening the mainspring latch is a plastic cable tie. I use the small ones and make a loop, put one end over the latch and my finger in the loop. No scratching and lots of leverage.

Just now it took me 6 secs to field strip my MK2.

jem375
May 1, 2003, 01:28 PM
to each his own, I will put the speed strip on mine....sure, I can take mine apart fairly fast also, but, unlike some people I can look at an improvement of the model and actually act on it.....If it don't work out, fine, throw it away....big write-up in Handguns on it now, and the boys at Majestic Arms didn't know about it until someone at the Las Vegas Show showed them the article.....

Handy
May 1, 2003, 01:37 PM
So this device costs $50, requires tools, makes the backstrap inaccessible for cleaning and may break factory parts during installation.

:( You're right, I guess I can't recognize an "improvement".




So if you don't like it, you're going to throw a $50 part out?

bountyhunter
May 1, 2003, 03:02 PM
HANDY: last night I took my Ruger trigger out to do the over-travel adjust of the factory trigger (I'm sure you know where they hid the screw). On mine, you can't lift the trigger out without freeing the "trigger bar" which requires removing the hammer. If you are really lucky, you can keep the pin in far enough to get the hammer out without the safety and all the other parts coming off... I wasn't lucky. A loud "sproing" and I am looking down at a bench covered with parts and tiny pins.

Thank God I had the re-assembly drawings that were posted at the On Target web site or I would have been dead. Next time, try timing yourself to get the hammer/sear/trigger assemblies and all the other junk back in. Hint: you can time yourself with a sundial.

gwalchmai
May 1, 2003, 03:53 PM
Do you guys get really frustrated when you can't get a gun to go back together? The first time I took my MKII apart I thought I was gonna have to take an anger management course. In fact, it wasn't a whole lot better the last time I took it apart. Luckily, this time I knew what was wrong, so I took a time out and came back a couple of hours later, and it went back together on the first try.

I think this is the real reason why some folks recommend not cleaning MKIIs but about every 2000 rounds... :banghead:

Handy
May 1, 2003, 05:36 PM
Bountyhunter,

Foolishly, I don't take the trigger apart for regular cleaning.



Which is a funny way of asking, what are you talking about? I thought the thread was about field stripping Rugers. Some think it's hard, some think it's just a bit of a trick that requires a little practice.

I guess I have no idea what you think.

Graystar
May 1, 2003, 05:48 PM
I don't take the trigger apart for regular cleaning.Why would anyone, with our OnTarget Trigger Shields keeping that area nice and clean :)

Um...we *do* all have OnTarget Trigger Shields in our Rugers, don't we?? :eek:

Kruzr
May 1, 2003, 11:20 PM
Thank God I had the re-assembly drawings that were posted at the On Target web site or I would have been dead. Next time, try timing yourself to get the hammer/sear/trigger assemblies and all the other junk back in. Hint: you can time yourself with a sundial.

The next time you want to take your Mark2 apart, just go to yzguy's site and follow the pictures and instructions. A lot easier than trying to do it with drawings. Then you can time yourself with a 30 minute timer.

http://www.1bad69.com/ruger/internals.htm

yzguy
May 2, 2003, 01:40 PM
One of these days I'll get a hold of a video camera and film it.... it is not that hard and can be done that fast.... (field stripping that is, the internals are a bit more complicated, but then again arn't they on every firearm??)

Also I see I got a link from on target!! :)
(for those that don't know, the 1bad69 site is mine)

bountyhunter
May 2, 2003, 03:06 PM
"Bountyhunter,

Foolishly, I don't take the trigger apart for regular cleaning.

Which is a funny way of asking, what are you talking about? I thought the thread was about field stripping Rugers. Some think it's hard, some think it's just a bit of a trick that requires a little practice.

I guess I have no idea what you think."


Then read my post. As it states, I was adjusting the factory overtravel screw which is hidden on the front of the edge of the upper trigger and can not be adjusted without removing the trigger. I would never be insane enough to take a trigger out for cleaning, but I'm not to blame that Ruger was too stupid to put the overtravel screw down on the exteriror of the trigger where every body else puts it. And, you have to adjust it by turning the screw, reassembling the gun and checking, taking it out and turning the screw, repeat ad nauseum....


"The next time you want to take your Mark2 apart, just go to yzguy's site and follow the pictures and instructions. A lot easier than trying to do it with drawings. Then you can time yourself with a 30 minute timer."

Actually, the reason the time stretched out so long is because (as stated above) adjusting the over travel screw requires REPEATED disasembly and assembly of the trigger assy, trigger bar and hammer assy. I don't think a video is going to change that, although I will certainly look at the video.

bountyhunter
May 2, 2003, 03:08 PM
"Do you guys get really frustrated when you can't get a gun to go back together? The first time I took my MKII apart I thought I was gonna have to take an anger management course. In fact, it wasn't a whole lot better the last time I took it apart. Luckily, this time I knew what was wrong, so I took a time out and came back a couple of hours later, and it went back together on the first try."

Actually, I am experienced at smithing a number of different guns. Until meeting the Ruger, the Browning HP was the undisputed king of worst gun to remove/replace a trigger. Ruger definitely has the HP beat.

bountyhunter
May 2, 2003, 03:13 PM
"The next time you want to take your Mark2 apart, just go to yzguy's site and follow the pictures and instructions. A lot easier than trying to do it with drawings. Then you can time yourself with a 30 minute timer.

http://www.1bad69.com/ruger/internals.htm"

Actually, those are exactly the pictures I was referring to which I said enabled me to re-assemble my gun. I printed them out and taped them to pages some time back and I use it as my reference guide for assembly. Without them, I would have been screwed.

Mal H
May 2, 2003, 04:13 PM
bountyhunter sez:... you have to adjust it by turning the screw, reassembling the gun and checking, taking it out and turning the screw, repeat ad nauseum....
That's for dang sure! I used to be able to disassemble/reassemble my MkII in about 2 minutes. After going through the overtravel adjustment routine (I recall I had to disassemble/reassemble the gun more than 10 times before I got it just right), I could break it down and put it back together in around 45 seconds total time. I was cursing the Ruger designers for putting the adj. screw in such a screwy place all the while.

SodaPop
May 2, 2003, 06:40 PM
I got rid of my MKII because I HATED taking it apart. Another reason I love taking apart my FAL......... IT'S EASY!!!:)

AZ Jeff
May 2, 2003, 06:50 PM
OK, you got rid of you MkII 'cuz it was a PITA to take apart. Just what did you replace it with? And, did you find it to be as reliable/durable, etc.....?

SodaPop
May 2, 2003, 06:52 PM
A Ruger Single Six.

AZ Jeff
May 2, 2003, 07:09 PM
Well, I guess it's certainly probably durable and reliable. And you can't say it's hard to take apart for cleaning......

Good choice.

SodaPop
May 2, 2003, 07:31 PM
I think taking apart an AR is easier than that darn MKII. I've been told they are great guns, but my 50th Anniversary annoyed me.

I got a lot pickier after buying the MKII. The only pisol/rifle I've had any headaches with since then was my 10/22. Turned out it was just a mag problem and not really the gun.

The Single Six is a great little 22 pistol. I can knock down bowling pins with the weakest 22LR ammo at 10yds.

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