[combatantr2]

Anyone kind enough to post pics, preferrably in chrono order on how to check headspace on a 5 inch 1911 govt model? I keep reading about headspace issues and how to check them and I just could not get it :barf: Preferrably pics on how to on 1911s. Thanks in advance.

P.S. homestyle checking pls. cant find a gsmith who may know how to check a headspace here in my area.

Thanks again.

[1911Tuner]

Don't have any pictures, but it's pretty straightforward. I do it with the extractor and recoil system removed.

Two gauges. GO and NO-GO. GO is .898 inch long. NO-GO is .920 inch.
The slide should go to full battery with no more than just the slightest resistance on the GO gauge. (Preferably no resistance, but some custom-fit barrels are set to bare minimum.)

The slide should not go to battery on the NO GO. If the static headspace
is near maximum, it may appear to go to full battery, or it may just go with heavy resistance. If you have this condition, the true dimension from breechface to stop shoulder should be determined. I use the GO and graduated feeler gauges...but in general, if it gets that close, I replace the barrel.

[combatantr2]

Thanks Tuner. A question though, can I make the GO/NO-GO gauges myself?

[1911Tuner]

Sure. Got a lathe? Look in Kuhnhausen: Volume 2, page 105. Basically, the gauges look like empty brass, faced off to length. Use crocus cloth to smooth
the corners at the mouth and rim, but leave'em sharp and clean. You can make'em out of 1018 and case-harden if you want, but unless you intend to use'em a lot, you can leave'em as they are.

[jungle]

Another way to check headspace is to insert a loaded round or dummy loaded to the same OAL into the barrel and with the extractor removed as per Tuner's instructions, measure the space between the base of the cartridge and breechface with a feeler guage. This will give you a true working headspace with the ammo in use. .022" is max, I prefer .01".
If you are loading SWCs it is also possible to control headspace to some degree by varying OAL.

[brickeyee]

"a loaded round or dummy loaded to the same OAL"

This will not tell you anything much about headpsace.
It does not depend on bullet shape, and relying on a bullet even into the lands to resist the firing pin strike is asking for trouble.
It is the distance from the breech face to the front edge of the chamber.
If you new the length of the case you could use shims to try and measure the headspace, but brass is rather soft and you are unlikely to get a very accurate reading.
Real go and no-go gauges are cheap enough that if you really have a concern purchase a set (or go ahead and make them).
A go gauge and feelers wil allow an actual measurement of the headspace if done carefully.

[jungle]

Brickeyee, I agree with you underlying premise, but with a Hardball load in most pistol barrels of the .45 ACP caliber the bullet will NOT be jammed in the lands when it is fully chambered.
The original question asked for field expedient methods. Here is another one.
Pick up a fired .45 ACP case, preferably out of your pistol. Measure it with calipers for length, add or subtract as needed to get a total of .898-that is a constant to add or subtract to your headspace after you measure as described with the feeler guages. If you measure with feeler gauges and your case is .878 in length then subtract that .02 difference which is the difference between your fired case and a "real HS gauge" from your measured headspace and you have an accurate measured headspace.(If your case is longer than .898, which is unlikely add the difference to your final measurement)
Proper guages are essential to anyone who uses them often, but there are other equally accurate ways to skin the same cat in this case if you lack the proper tools.


Edit for spelling.

[1911Tuner]

This one's gonna get interestin', brickeyee bein' one of our "ringers" here on THR. :cool:

A couple points on the Field Expedient Headspace Gauge.

The case mouth must be square and true in order to provide an accurate measurement.

If the feeler gauge employed is a bit too thick, when you push the slide to battery the case mouth will deform and give a false reading...so care must be used in this exercise, or you get to start all over.

The "Spent Case Gauge" is only good for one or two readings...if used carefully.

I've used the expedient gauge on a few occasions, but only to see if there was an obvious problem, and only because a proper gauge set was unavailable at the time and place. Automotive ignition feeler gauges are
much easier to come by. Available at your friendly neighborhood auto parts store for about 6 bucks a set.

Ready...Set...GO!

[jungle]

I agree Tuner, just trying to help the original poster out. I think we are all familiar with what headspace is and how it is measured, but I also think that knowing how to find the measurement in a few different ways can be useful. Hope you are doing well.

[1911Tuner]

Jungle said:

>Hope you are doing well.<
*********************

Hard to say. Ask me again in about 3 weeks when I get through with this latest round of steroids...:scrutiny: