[Master Blaster]

There are endless debates and tests of products to prevent rust on firearms here and on other boards.
An older gent who has been collecting valuable antique guns for 50 years, who puts them on display at our club meetings was telling me that the best thing for preventing rust and protecting the finish of traditional blued and case hardened firearms he has found to date is a good liquid carnuba wax you use on an automobile. He has tried all of the modern stuff like EEzox, Breakfree, Boeshield, even WD 40 (applied lightly). But he keeps coming back to Carnuba based wax. I occaisionaly hear folks on this board mention that they use wax.

FOLKS WHO USE WAX ONLY PLEASE


I am curious to hear your experiences, what brand or type and how you apply it, how much? and how often you need to apply it.

How long have you been using it, and has it failed you?

What kind of finnishes do you use it on? How do you store your guns? Do you also use a dehumidifier??

Thanks

[BigG]

CAUTION: I don't think you want to use CAR WAX. Most car waxes have an abrasive in them to cut through the oxidized paint haze. You don't want to remove the finish on your weapon, I trust?

They use pure wax, like Johnson's or whatever, for floors. Do not use anything labeled "cleaner" wax because that has the abrasive. JMTC Good luck!

[1 old 0311]

I have been using Automotive Paste Wax for 30 years. I use it on blue, stainless, and high polished firearms. I suppose if you rub hard enough it would score the finish, but so would damn near anything. Apply with a light coat, let dry, buff off. It protects the finish, and is great for keeping fingerprints off.

Kevin

p.s. I use whatever is on sale, as long as it is paste wax.

[mete]

Johnson's Paste Wax has been used for many , long before any of these fancy gun lubes came out ! It can be used for storing guns but fot that I prefer cleaning the gun thoroughly, applying a light coating of RIG grease , wrap with VPI [vapor phase inhibiter] paper and put in the original box or a zip lock bag.

[freebird]

I agree I would use pure wax. Johnsons is great! But I know some who have used abbrasives and been fine. My luck would not be as good:banghead:

[Flatfender]

You want "RENAISSANCE WAX"

http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=203661

[dfariswheel]

Museums long ago discovered the best preservative for antique weapons and metal is a coat of hard wax.

Most use a hard carnuba like Renaissance, but ordinary Johnson's Paste Floor Wax is also good.

As above, many car waxes do contain fine abrasives and can degrade the finish.

[Okiecruffler]

Been using Turtle wax for decades on my 311 with no noticable effect on the finish. Use it on all my C&R's after I get them cleaned up, but that's usually a one time deal. That 311 has had literally hundreds of wax coats on it. Works great for waterfowling. Usually waxed it at the beginning of the seasons, at the ends, and after any wet outing.

[Starter52]

This is an interesting and timely topic for me.

In a few weeks I will be at a summer camp that keeps two racks of .22 rifles in cabinets at the range. Rust is a real problem in the summer humidity. The range staff goes through a couple of cans of Breakfree and WD-40 each month trying to keep the guns rust-free.

If wax is a better way to prevent rust, we would like to try it.

Q - If we treated the metal parts of the rifles with wax, could the rifles still be used? Or is wax only for storage? Would one kind of wax be better than another when the guns are handled daily?

Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Eumaeus]

Starter52,

For rifles that need to be protected from nasty humidity and used regularly, I'd recommend Ballistol (www.ballistol.com). It has the added advantages of being non-toxic, actually good for wood stocks and leather slings, and cheap. I use it as cleaner and preserver on all my rifles, handguns, and shotguns.

The smell is... disconcerting... at first, but you can grow to love it.

All this said, I have never considered using wax, so this thread has been an education for me!

[Jenrick]

Nano-Wax, BTW works great on blued firearms. Stay away however from the slide of a P7 if it's plum. It'll take it back to the orignal steel finish. Worked out okay for me, since it was going to be sent off to be re-finished anyway, but just a heads up.

-Jenrick

[exar]

I noticed small rust spots developing on my sig's slide. Lightly rubbed some Turtle Wax on and it took the rust right off and hasn't been back since.

[1 old 0311]

Hi Starter,

Just apply, let dry, wipe off, and you are finished. No other maintance.

Kevin

[rustymaggot]

motorcycle chain wax. it sprays on liquid and sets up. its a bit sticky but better than rust. it will gum up a auto. it cuts pretty easy with hoppes9 when you want to use the auto again. remember to remove it from the bore of rifles before firing, dont ask me how i know this..........

[LeoC]

Has anyone had problems firing their waxed guns, getting them hot, and having the wax liquify?

[Ala Dan]

Car wax may have been used, but I prefer Blue Wonder Armadillo; or if the
weapon[s] are too be stored, RIG~!:D

[BHPshooter]

I have used it before, but I don't anymore.

I have nuclear toxic sweat, and tried it for a time. It simply couldn't handle my sweat. Breakfree CLP seemed to a tad better, but not much. My vote for rust prevention is either SLIP 2000 Gun Lube (which is synthetic), and Breakfree LP (thicker and slicker than CLP).

Wes

[Okiecruffler]

I've used CLP on my carry piece, but where it came in contact with skin it raised blisters. Strange, because it causes no problems at all if I get it on my hands.

[Master Blaster]

what we really need here is a corrosion test using some pieces of carbon steel and the various waxes, as well as rig, breakfree,etc.

I wish I had the carbon steel squares, and I would do it and post results,but I dont.

[mainmech48]

Many years ago, before SS was an available option, I used silicone car wax on my hunting and carry weapons with highly satisfactory results. It was very durable and gave great protection. Bonus was that you could use it in the bore and chambers without compromising function or taking a chance on contaminating ammo.

While the caveats on car waxes are true to some extent, most of the ones which are problematic are labeled "cleaner/wax", "polish" or something similar. While silcone-based waxes are long gone, don't see why a hard carnuba brand wouldn't work perfectly well. FWIW, I'd ditto the recs for "Renaissance Wax" and "Armadillo", both of which I've used to good effect storing my more seldom used firearms, swords and edged weapons. While the price of a small jar of "Renaissance Wax" might seem out-of-line when compared to car wax, a tiny bit goes a long, long way and it's formulated specifically for the job you want to do. I have some swords and other edged weapons treated with it that've been displayed for years without reapplication or retouching needed.

[Lou629]

I have not heard of waxing firearms at all before today, but this sounds interesting to me. For decades i have simply kept my guns wrapped in a silicone-treated cloth or gunsock, which has always worked fine for me.

The big drawback to this has always been the 'slippery' feel that the things would have all over when being handled for the first time after a period of storage.

I think i will give this a try with one of the safe-queens and see how she likes it. Would the wax react negatively with any silicone residue that may be left on some of the guns?

[VARifleman]

Has anyone had problems firing their waxed guns, getting them hot, and having the wax liquify?
Considering how hot car paint gets in the sun, and that doesn't liquify, I wouldn't think it would.

[gezzer]

I have used Butchers Bowling Alley wax on my Marlin 45/70 I have owned since the 70's despite hunting in downpours etc. no rust has ever gotten a start. Best thing I have found for hunting guns.

[mainmech48]

Lou: While any sort of chemical reaction between the wax and silicone is unlikely, you might run into issues with penetration and adhesion if you apply wax over another protectant.

For the best results, I'd check out the recommendations for surface prep found on the particular product. Most will specify a "clean, dry" surface and some will contain performance disclaimers concerning application over the residue of other products.

For the products like "Armadillo" and "Renaissance Wax", it'd be hard to go wrong following their directions. They were formulated and developed specifically for use on firearms and other metal artifacts, so they've "done their homework".

If you want to use paste wax or an automotive product as an experiment, I'd suggest that you remove the stock or grips and wipe down all of the exposed surfaces with a cloth moistened with a mild degreaser first. Don't forget the bore and chamber(s). After the surfaces have dried, thoroughly apply a thin, even coat to all the exposed metal. When that dries, wipe off the haze and repeat. You can wipe any oil residue off the wood (I wouldn't degrease; some products might attack the finish) and put a couple of coats on it inside and out. It's especially important that all of the metal surfaces normally covered by the stock(s) be coated completely, as this is were any moisture will tend to migrate and collect, and where it won't be removed by a quick routine wipe-down with a dry rag.

[kevin387]

I did my own personal unscientific test a couple of years ago to see what works best. I tried several different protectants most that you would name and somethat you wouldn't. I did not try eezox(?) because I had not heard of it at the time.

Hands down Breakfree CLP was the best when exposed to the elements. Miltec was worse than being untreated and carwax (Meguirars)(?) was also very dissapointing.

If just left in the garage there wasn't much of a difference. I still trust CLP the most but did buy some Eezox based on a trusted opinion. I haven't tested it yet.

[DBR]

MHO use Eezox. Follow the instructions. You won't have any rust.

[Hogfan1911]

Never heard of wax for preventing rust on guns before. Makes sense, though. Have heard many times not to use WD-40 as a rust preventative because it is water-based. Have been using synthetic Militec-1 for close to 10 years now with outstanding results. Absolutely no rust whatsoever.

[Sam Adams]

WD-40 is a water displacer (and it was the 40th formulation tried, hence the name). It is not a rust preventative, and on top of that it gums up over time.

I used to use it for rust prevention, but no more. I would use it if I went hunting and the gun got dunked in the water, and all I had to use was a can of WD-40 in the trunk - but I'd degrease and re-rustproof the gun immediately after getting home.

Thanks to those who've posted on Renaissance Wax and on Blue Wonder's Armadillo. I got a tiny can of RenWax from Milt Sparks when I sent my holster for repair (thanks, guys), and the stuff is great on leather - no prints at all, and it has a very lusterous shine. Now I think that I'm going to put it on my carry gun and some other metal that I want protected. If the museums use that stuff for high-carbon steel blades and suits of armor, it must be good.

[ArmedBear]

Cosmoline works the best.

[p35]

I was having problems with my Vaughn rigger's ax rusting in the garage, so I cleaned it up and coated it with Gunk Dri-Lube PTFE. Basically a Teflon coating. Just got back from a long weekend at the beach, and after four days of (occasional) rain and salt air there's not a mark on it. I'm really liking this stuff.

Besides, it's a great lube and won't collect dust. You can really feel the difference after lubing slide rails with this stuff.

[confed sailor]

for our 1861 springfields, we use a pure beewax candle after polishing them back to armory bright.

[c_yeager]

Has anyone had problems firing their waxed guns, getting them hot, and having the wax liquify?


Mine smells kinda like a birthday candle after a few rounds. If you apply it like your applying it to a car (wipe on/wipe off) you shouldnt have enough on there to cause problems.

I only use wax on guns that arent going to be used for awhile, its too much of a pain (and unnecessary) on a firearm thats going to be fired on a weekly basis, but for safe-queens its awesome.

Anything that is clear-coat safe *should* be free of any abrasives. The finish on a new car would seem to be a lot easier to damage than the bluing on a pistol or rifle.