[M38]

A Ka-Bar? What is the best knife for fighting and other possible tasks like cutting branches, dressing & skinning game etc.?

[Ed Brunner]

A K-Bar is hard to beat, particularly for the price!
I have been looking at survival knives lately and am really interested in the Cold Steel Recon Scout which seems to be a serious knife, maybe a bit large, but apparently strong and low-maintenance.
Any comments will be appreciated.

[TheeBadOne]

For fighting, how about the Hobbit Warrior?

[Drjones]

Strider or Busse.

Period.

[hso]

There is no one knife that does all that perfectly. You may be able to get 2 or 3 to fit the enormous range of tasks implied well, but even they would represent compromises.

I know old deer hunters that spend a long weekend killing whitetail that use a case stockman and a hatchet. Others use a 3 inch drop point and a cleaver. They don't build shelters and don't even think about the knife as a weapon.

Fighting knives are different from combat knives are different from survival knives. Notice I just progressed from a pure purpose to more general purpose tools. A fighter won't stand up to the abuses that a combat or survival knife will be subjected to (grubbing/prying/chopping/scraping).

You really must examine what you want the knives to do. If you want to just build expedient survival shelters you can get away with a knife under 12 inches (anything more than expedient shelter and hides should be built with an axe anyway). Look at the largest hunk of steel that you're willing to hump around all day, day after day, and decide if it will chop, grub, and pry everything that you think you'll need to do this. Then look at the smallest knife you can use to fill the rest of your needs. If you think you might have to use the knife in a fight don't go below 5 inches. If that's too big for camp chores/snare making/game cleaning pick a 3rd smaller knife. This allows you to pick a 3-4 inch fixed blade for smaller chores and increase the fighting knife to 7-12 inches.

I used to take a finnish bill hook with a short handle with me or a BKT Brute (the finn is lighter, but there's something about the Brute), a 3inch old style Blackjack Woodsman and a small Sebenza to the woods with me for extended periods of time.

No one makes the do all knife where it's suitable for every purpose (if they did there wouldn't be so many different types and sizes, would there).

[Ol' Badger]

BUCK 110 enuff said.

[Drjones]

I must respectfully disagree with the BUck 110 recommendation.

They are of course fine knives, but about as far from a "survival knife" as you can get.

First, its a folding knife.

Never.

It's been said that a folding knife is just a fixed blade that's been broken.

They ONLY folding knife that I would even consider in a survival-type situation would be a Strider folder.

Even then, I would recommend a fixed blade over a folder hands down.

Most all folding knives (yes, even Striders) simply cannot handle the tasks that you would need done in a survival situation.

The Strider folders are very large knives indeed, but you can of course get larger knives, which is what you might need for chopping.

You most definitely want a large, HIGH-QUALITY fixed blade knife.

Why are you asking this question, M38?

Are you actually considering the purchase of a knife, or are you just curious?


Anyhow, I just re-read your post, and it sounds like you will probably need about two knives.

Well, if you are planning on going camping or planning on being in a survival situation (don't know how you'd plan that! :scrutiny: ) you should ALWAYS have at LEAST two knives anyway.

If you plan on dressing game and chopping wood and doing other heavy tasks, you will definitely need two knives.

A good, sturdy general-purpose survival knife isn't really well suited to dressing game, and likewise, a game knife isn't well suited to heavier tasks.

Hope this helps.

[M38]

Dr Jones
Maybe just a middle age thing (I'm 41), but I've been thinking that it wouldn't hurt to prepare my self for any possible survival situation, mostly thinking about getting some MREs, possibly a generator for when the power goes out etc. The question came up in my mind while reading the article about Ka-Bars in American Rifleman. I have hunting knives, cooking knives, pocket knives but never previously thought about a fighting/survival knife. It wouldn't hurt to have a knife with me while hunting that could handle the ruffer stuff in case I were to get lost or something and needed to build a shelter.

[Drjones]

Ha!

You and I are EXACTLY alike in that regard!!!

I'm only 22 but have also been thinking a lot about survival and preparedness.

Anyhow, again I'll recommend Strider or Busse.

You should also take a hard look at http://www.swampratknives.com

They are basically Busses produced under a different name, and WAY less expensive.

For about $150 or so you can get a large blade that will chop through a cinder block.

Really. :what:

But Striders look so much cooler!!! (And perform the same, too!!!)

[Soap]

Budget and specific models aside, I would go with some sort of 3-5" bladed belt knife and a 7-9" bladed knife in the pack. The short belt knife can handle a ton of different tasks, mostly precision cutting based. Think about gutting a deer/fish/rabbit/etc., cutting fabric, making small objects, food preparation; all of this can be done with the smaller knife. Then I would use the larger for splitting wood, hacking things, breaking a deer's pelvic bone, etc.

Currently I use a Watson drop point as my smaller blade and I plan on getting a Becker 9 for the larger stuff. I like Ka-Bars but they're weak where the blade meets the handle, they're known for breaking there.

[brownie0486]

I think the best survival knife is the one you have on/with you when the time to survive happens.

I don't carry a survival knife daily, but I do carry several that would be uitilized as well as possible in the event I was in that predicament.

Hard to plan for a survival setting unless you always wear your survival gear. You would have to use what you brought with you.

Lets see, today I would have to survive with my SAK Hiker, SAK multi-tool, Blade-tech Tarani Karambit, and Emerson neck claw.

These are with me daily so these are what I would have when the time came.

That could be when the blizzard of 78 hit the NE and thousands were stranded in their cars for days.

That could be when the train I ride daily derails and it's every man/woman/child for themselves.

If you have it with you daily, it's your survival gear. Survival situations to me mean unplanned events that pop up unexpectedly. The above knives and tools are what I would have and be capable of using in those situaions.

In essence, they are my daily survival tools. I'd have to make due with them and I believe for the most part these would suffice till I could get out of that circumstance.

Brownie

[mohican]

maybe a combination
my Cold Steel SRK, and my leatherman

and what do you mean by survival? In the woods? or wherever your at.

As a volunteer firefighter, my "survivor" knife in my turnout gear is a large Cold Steel Voyageur Tanto folder with a 1/2 serrated blade. Whoever made the comment that the survival knife is the one you have at hand is correct. I usually have a large fixed blade knife in my vehicles, if not on my person.

BTW, how much "knife fighting" have people really done? should that be a criteria?

[Drjones]

M38:

1) I of course agree that the best "survival" knife is the one you have with you when you need it, which is EXACTLY why you should choose your EDC equipment carefully, and is also why I personally insist on only the finest equipment. (Firearms, flashlights, blades, etc.)

2) Tell us your price range and we can better assist you.

[M38]

Dr Jones
If the quality earned it, I wouldn't think paying as much as $150 would be too much.

[M38]

For a specific example:
I'm looking at the Spring 2003 A.G Russell catalog and they have what they call the "Black Ka-Bar" . The handle is Kraton G thermoplastic, blade is a 7" 1095 high carbon tool steel at 56-58Rc, with as they advertise "...blade, butt cap and guard being epoxy powder coated ..." The price with Kydex sheath is $54.95.
1) Does the epoxy powder coating resist corrosion? Is it easily worn off?
2) Is 1095 high carbon too steel at 56-58Rc a good chice for sharpness, holding an edge and durability?
3) I bought their Deer Hunter knife and have used on three deer and I like it, I think it is worth the $70, but I don't have a clue as to A.G. Russell's prices vs. their competition. Are they overpriced?
Thanks to one and all for your responses, I am learning a great deal!

[Dave Markowitz]

If you are looking for a good sheath knife, check out the Becker Knife & Tool Combat Utility 7. I got one a few months ago and I'm very pleased with it.

[Navy joe]

I have 2 survival combos. One is an HI khukri and SAK with lockblade, the other is a M9 bayo and SAK lockblade. I like striders, but most of them have the blade geometry of a brick chisel, and while good for pure fighting it would be nice to have something sharper for multi-use.

[Soap]

M38- In that price range I would pick up a Cold Steel SRK or a Becker 7. The Marine pattern knives are nice but like I said, the tang right under the guard is weak.

[Drjones]

M38:

Regarding the K-bars that you seem so fixated on :) if you pay $54 for a knife, you get a $54 knife.

I dunno 'bout you, but that just ain't good enough for me.

They are a decent knife, and I like the looks of them, but I would most definitely not buy one with survival in mind.

www.bladeforums.com - do a search there, and you will turn up tons of info on ANY blade imaginable.

For the money, there is just no way you are going to beat the Swamprat knives.

Like I said, there have been tests done (I've seen the pics, FWIW) and they have chopped through cinder blocks with ease.

Any blade that can take that kind of outright abuse will obviously stand up to ANYTHING you can dish out in real life. Same with Striders. The Strider guys used to do all sorts of crazy demonstrations/abuse like chopping rebar and concrete and still maintaining a useable edge.

Anyhow, the Swamprats and Striders are a full 1/4 inch thick. K-bars don't even come close.

Have you looked at Striders at all? www.striderknives.com

Again, you can search for them on BF.com.

Just my thoughts...

[brownie0486]

Drjones:

K-bars may not be good enough for you but they have been good enough for tens of thousands of Marines in actual combat for the last 60 years or so.

Of course they don't hold the same dependability as a Strider/Busse/Swamprat. Those knives are designed for abuse while the k-bars are designed as a field utility knife/fighting knife combination.

Two different applications are presented here, and the knives should not be compared in my opinion.

Hell, I have a Bagwell Bowie fighter that will do more than any other fighting bowie probably made today. Does that mean I should expect it to be utilized for other chores? I might think so but it's design parameters would allow another knife in a different application to perform better at a given task. That does not make the Hells Belle a weak knife or something less than it really is.

If the Marines continue to issue them after that many decades they must feel it serves well in it's intended role of the troops who will and do use it for about everything in the field.

Weak? Hell I have the one issued me in VN in 69 and it is still going strong. Some rust/blood stains over the year, looks rode hard and put up wet [ it actually was in 1970 ] and it is still capable of what it was designed to do.

I have better knives than that knife but to give the impression the knife is weak may not be giving it credit where it is due through it's military heritage/history of being capable of field/fighting chores with men who actually have the opportunity to use them in life and death scenarios.

For the money, that knife will do for most any chore you find yourself needing a knife for. Good enough in real combat? It's proven its worth too many times by men who go in harms way fro a living to be given such a bad rap.

Brownie

[D.W. Drang]

The one you have with you! :D

I love it when a smart @$$ answer is appropriate! :evil:

Are you looking for a "SHTF" knife? If so, you need a knife that is conveniant enough to carry as long as you are dressed and not flying on commerical air transport. Unless you have a functional crystal ball, that is, and will KNOW when the S is about to HTF...

To me that works against the "Folding Knife? NEVER" philosophy. I understand where they're coming from, but a lock-blade folder is going to be smaller and lighter than most of the fixed-blade knives touted as being "ideal" for survival.
OTOH, one of the smaller "neck knives" such as are being produced by Columbia River Knife and Tool or SOG would be fine here, too.

If you're looking for a "general purpose" knife to wear/carry when you are in the woods, whether it is hunting for camping, or just as a "survival kit" item, then a larger fixed blade, such as the K-Bar "Marine" knife (NEVER issued, BTW, despite the hype; even Ka-Bar admits it) or the "Pilot's Survival Knife" (were issue, not sure if they still are--when I was air crew the "knives" in ourt survival vests were razor blades!:what: ) would be fine. (I recommend looking for one of the "modernized" versins with a synthetic handle and sheath.)

I ASSume here that when you are asking about "survival" knives you are NOT looking for a fighting knife. Fighting knives are specialized tools that are almost NEVER "general purpose" knives--which is what a survival knife is.

[brownie0486]

Not sure what you meant by never issued but I was issued mine as I departed for RVN on a transport in 69. USMC 69-71

Brownie

[hso]

Take a look at John Greco's knives. For the price you can't beat them and they get used in the jungles and woods extensively.

http://www.cqcknives.com/x-plorer.htm

[Soap]

Brownie,

Do you know any guys that broke their K-Bars? I know of a few that broke theirs while they were opening crates. Each time they broke in the same spot. I have one and I like it a lot but I just wanted to see if the breaking issue is hype or fact.

[brownie0486]

Daniel Flory:

Yup, they broke them on crates alright and usually at the juncture you mentioned when they did go.

It's not the best knife but a good knife. I have seen mine do things that others would not.

Cut steel bands on a tire at the rim once to break it loose. Twisted and pryed until I snapped the bands with only a minor chip in the blade.

There were bad batches of them from time to time and it showed but others [I was fortunate I guess]had no issues.

It's not what I would choose now but wasn't into b;ades then like now and did not possess the knowledge to make an informed choice.

Actually we used what they gave us and never really worried about it. Everything got used hard and often.

I can't say if it is hype or not, just what I have seen for the most part. I don't consider them weak though.

Brownie

[Zip06]

Interesting thread. I can not imagine anyone putting themself in a position where a knife fight might occur and not have a pistol. That aside, you really have to define what your expectations are for the knife; is it to be a general utility knife? If so, how long a blade do you want/need? Nothing the matter with a K-Bar, the Cold Steel SRK or the Becker BK7. I hike/camp and I quickly found that one knife is not enough. I wanted a chopper/digger/prybar/hammer and settled on the Becker Campanion which has a 5 1/4 inch blade and resembles a prybar with an edge. It does everything, has an incredibly strong point that will pierce ammo cans all day long with no damage. Its a lot stronger than my K-Bar. Its a good all around compromise but a fine cutter it ain't. For finer chores I have another thinner blade knife. There are so many excellent knifes out there all you have to do is make out a spec sheet and then try to execise some self control.

[colima]

OK, I' can see that the Buck 110 isn't the first choice for survival work, but nobody has mentioned the Buck 119 or 120 fixed blade knives. Not my most advanced or sexiest knives, but solid and reliable.

[Ed Brunner]

As a couple of folks have pointed out, it is all relative to your neeeds, wants and pocketbook. For knife tasks, NOT cutting cinder blocks, any of the knives mentioned can do something. Yes, the K-Bar can break, but usually only when used as a prybar. If you need a prybar, get a prybar.
Newer knives are a lot better because of metallurgy and design and some can actually be used as a prybar of sorts.

[scotjute]

When you include tasks like opening crates, the Quartermaster by Ontario comes to mind. Thick, wide 6" blade suitable for numerous tasks and fighting.
The black epoxy coatings do a reasonably good job of protecting the blade from corrosion. I recommend a thin film of Crisco on carbon steel knives that may be used to cut up food.
As others have said, its hard to get one knife that is suitable for everything. That said, some type of Bowie knife is usually well-suited for a multitude of tasks. The K-bar would be a good choice.

[Soap]

Thanks for the reply Brownie!

Ed,

I agree that if one wants a prybar, get a prybar. But sometimes when you only have a few tools on hand, you have to make due.

[Ed Brunner]

I understand completely. BTDT. You really can't blame the knife.
I am seriously considering something like the Swamp Rat, which I just discovered (Thank you Dr), or the CS Recon Scout.
Years ago in another life I swapped a poncho liner for an AF Survival Knife (Camillus, I believe). I did everything with it. I opened cans and boxes, cut meat and wood. I even used it with a hammer to cut sheet metal. I gave it to my son about 25 years ago and he still uses it. Not a REAL survival knife, but it surely served me well.:)

[Drjones]

brownie:

Thank you for your service Sir, and I apologise if I offended you.

I hope I didn't come across as bashing K-bars, as that was never my intention.

As you have shown, (and I of course agree) they are a fine knife and have served many people, including our troops, very well indeed.

Are there better blades out there? Of course.

My point, and my personal philosophy is that I want the best, Period.

If I can get a knife that will hack through concrete and beg for more, sign me up!

As has been said above, the best knife is the one you have with you, which IMO, reinforces my philosophy about choosing only the best.

IMO, if the SHTF and I'm stuck with "only" my Strider Tactical GB (IF they EVER arrive!!! :fire: ) I'll be OK with that, and I'm sure it will do everything that I could possibly need it to.

Or if the SHTF when I'm out camping with "only" my Strider BT, I'll be fine, as Striders are as close to indestructible as you can get.

Above someone said something about "having to make do when your options are limited" and I agree, and again, I think that reinforces my point about buying the best.

Its likely that in a survival/SHTF type situation, you are going to have to use your knife for things you probably shouldn't use it for, but you can't carry a tool-box with you all the time, can you?


Regards,
Drjones

[Soap]

Ed,

I've been eyeing one of those USAF survival knives. Everyone that has had them said they gave great service for decades. Did you just use the included stone to freshen the edge? And you're right, you can't fault a knife for not being a prybar.

[Drjones]

ALSO:

M38: I simply cannot believe anyone hasn't mentioned this yet. If you are preparing for a survival type situation, you MUST have a multi-tool, including a can-opener.

Sure, you could use a knife as a screwdriver etc., but it would be easier, faster, and save your equipment undue abuse if you had some other options.

Again, you can't carry a tool box everywhere, but with a multi-tool, you can come close!!! :)

[brownie0486]

Drjones:

No offense taken sir.

I understand your comments well and could not agree more actually. I didn't want people who can't afford the striders and their kind to not pick up a k-bar becuase they believed them weak.

They, of course, don't come close to the striders, busse, or swamprat products. I'm actually thinking of ordering a swamprat just to have it.

I like my SRK cold steel for most of those chores required but it could use some company like any others I own.:p

Dan:
They [ usaf ]are pretty rugged knives in their own right.
Even the Navy issue, though shorter blade can take a hell of a beating. If it was a good price I'd grab either for most jobs I'd need it for but if the price difference wasn't that much I'd go with the swamprats as well.

Brownie

[JShirley]

If fighting with a knife is considered, a HI kuk would be a good choice. (My favorite is the 16.5" WWII w/ wood handle.) Kuks are great for big knife tasks like chopping down small trees or killing bears. (Yes, it's been done, and yes, it was a self-defense situation.) The down side to a big knife is that it's big...kinda like the up side to a big knife. :D Vehicle or pack carry is probably the way to go with these, with a smaller blade for delicate tasks.

A knife is a tool that will serve more poorly than many other choices for defensive use. Long sticks and firearms are much preferred.

John

[Ed Brunner]

Dan:)
Re:the AF knife.
Yes I used the included stone. It really wasn't a good stone. I had to use it a lot. Today I like the diamond dust stones and wish I had one then. I have one now that probably is about the same size.
I also strongly agree that one knife is never enough. You need a small knife for surgerin' and a medium sized one for cuttin' and a big one for whackin'.

[Baba Louie]

A bit above your price limit, but still a lifetime quality product are any of the Chris Reeve products, folder to fixed, large to small.

http://www.chrisreeve.com/home.html

The whole "Stuff in the handle", good sheath, stout blade, survival, field and fighting (I do so much of that :D ). Don't forget a quality sharpening kit/stone/sticks.

Check out Ka-Bar's Impact line in D2.

http://1sks.com

http://discountknives.com

But there's nothing wrong with a good old Kabar from Camillus or Ka-Bar or a SAK as well. You should have 1 of each. Some form of Pliers might come in handy at times

Adios

[Boats]

Hoo Boy, this thread takes me back to my days on BladeForum!

I believe you need more than one knife in a survival situation. When I go backpacking I have a SAK--Fireman with the sidelock. A Leatherman Juice S4. and one of these three that didn't break the bank and will do anything asked of them.

In the summer and when blackberries and other brush OT might be between me and survival:

Livesay AK (Adventure Knife) in 1095 oil cooled steel (http://newtlivesay.com/newt_livesay_AK.htm)

For Winter and the rainy season when corrosion resistance and cold weather performance is vital: Fallkniven A1 in VG-10 stainless.

http://www.fallkniven.com/bilder/stora/a1blgul.jpg

or the smaller F1 for being around the uncomfortable granola munchers closer to civilization:

http://www.fallkniven.com/bilder/stora/f1blblue.jpg

These two are also available without the coating. All three of these knives are full tang constructed. The Fallknivens have been extensively tested in arctic conditions and is the Swedish armed forces survival knife (F1). These knives have the tang exposed at the "pommel" for pounding.

The Livesay was about $150, the two Fallknivens I got for about $100 (A1) and $70 (F1). All are expensive enough to be of impeccable quality, but not so expensive I am going to worry about their destruction if that is what it takes to get out of whatever.

In light of recent backpacking stories, all will cut your arm off better than any multi-tool.:barf:

[Drjones]

Yeah, I was gonna mention the Fallkniven.


SO M38: any decision?

[oldpaladin]

Ladies and Gentlemen,
If one must choose only ONE knife for survival, the Cold Steel Gurkha Kukri must be considered. For combat, hunting, movement, and construction purposes, it's a definite "keeper." An alternative to this would be another Cold Steel product, the Bolo Machete. Think strong, durable, well made, and reliable. With either, you cannot lose. Just my two cents worth...

Regards and Respects,
Carter, oldpaladin, out..

[M38]

The post about needing a knife you can carry all the time since nobody can predict when a possible SHTF scenario could occur got me thinking as did all of the wise posts adivising against just one knife, so ....
I bought a Spyderco Military (and Jester for around the office)
I will eventualy buy a strong crate opening, cider block cutting knife
and I will buy a multi tool
Thanks Everybody!

[Tamara]

My current hard-use utility fixed blade is a McCann Industries Puffin Magnum (http://www.gokart.net/shop-utopia/mccann/knives/puffin/puffin.html). It's a nice, big, beefy knife with a blade that is good for both chopping and cutting.

An interesting gizmo I saw recently that takes the "knife-as-field-tool" concept to an extreme is the TOPS Smoke Jumper (http://www.jtknives.com/tops-smoke-jumper.htm). Really more a crowbar with an edge; you have to see the blade in cross section, as it's the full .25" thick pretty much all the way out to the tip. There's no false edge, it's just ground flat. :uhoh: Gave one to a friend for Christmas when he was considering joining the USMC.

As far as an EDC folder that can stand in for utility chores if need be, well, I'm pretty confident in my large Sebenza. :cool:

[Combat-wombat]

Get a Ka-bar D2 extreme. A little expensive, but very good I hear, and the blade's made out of D2. http://ka-bar.com/cgi-bin/product_detail.cgi?product_id=138&cat=2

[brownie0486]

Tamara:

Where is the balance point on the Tops smoke jumper? I'm not into tanto but own a few. That one looks like a hard use crowbar.

Brownie

[Tamara]

Very tip-heavy.

It's not really a tanto, but you have to see the blade from the point end to really grock it; where it looks like a false edge/swedge? It's just ground flat there. The thing is the full .25" thickness all the way out; literally a sharpened crowbar that only bears a passing resemblance to a knife, but it must be hella bad for chopping and prying chores. PM lendringser and see if he can take a photo of the blade at an angle and you'll see what I mean...

[bad_dad_brad]

I am going to put my 2 cents on the Glock field knife for survival, rather - a gaggle of Glock field knives. Cheap, sharp, robust, ugly but cool. I collect them and am impressed.

Built like a shovel, they are pretty tough and they are so inexpensive, you don't care if you abuse them. Buy lots. If you break one - who cares. Keep one in the tool box and glove box too.

Matter of fact, just bought one today (my fourth) in olive drab without the saw tooth on the inverse - $27.99. Heck, if you are thirsty, it has a bottle opener on it. Them Austrians do love their beer!

Oh yea, the Finnish Fallkniven, I would love to have one. Can't seem to get them easily though. Wanted one of those laminated A2 blades awhile back and the internet was no help.

If any THR member knows where I can purchase the A2 Fallkniven, I would appreciate knowing where.

[brownie0486]

.25 all the way out ?, next time I'm at one of the local shows I have to get a look at it.

Tops has a table at this one show they hold 4 times a year. Never saw that on the table but will ask next time out.

Thats one hard use tool there. Congrats

Brownie

[Drjones]

If any THR member knows where I can purchase the A2 Fallkniven, I would appreciate knowing where.

http://www.onestopknifeshop.com/store/fallkniven.html

:)

[bad_dad_brad]

Thanks Drjones!!!! I will check it out.

[Bainx]

One word.

Randall

[Wakal]

Started with a Cold Steel Recon Scout when I deployed the first time back in '91.

Upgraded earlier this year (from the same 'Scout, although repolished and repainted several times) to a Chris Reeve Project 1. Had a Randall 14 a few years ago, then sized up to a 15, got rid of both of them and went back to the 'Scout. The rubber handle finally started getting annoying (very worn), so I poked around and decided to solve the handle problem in a very direct way :D




Alex

[hso]

I've used these in the past and my favorite was the BKT Brute (although the DivTul was great in non-wilderness applications).

[hso]

This is now what I carry in the car. The finnish billhook is all I carry in the woods.

[hso]

Oops, here's the image.

[brownie0486]

HSO:
Good choice of tools there sir.
Brownie

[CWL]

hso,

Great and truly useful tools for survival.

[Bruz]

This is now what I carry in the car.

Smart choice of tools there hso, if you ever got pulled over those are obviously just for working, not for self defense.;)

[hso]

Bruz, self defense, naw :D . That hand axe sized billhook wouldn't be any good for that :rolleyes: . Just 'cause it pops through 3-4 inch hickory and dog wood with one whack or cracks black walnuts with the spine doesn't mean that it would be any good for anything else, does it?

I believe that the ideal "survival" knife is 2 or 3 different knives. My small Sebenza size folder, a 7 - 9 inch fixed blade with a pronounced point, and a choping/grubbing hacker. If all else fails I always have the folder and if I'm near my vehicle or with a pack the billhook is with me.

[Dr.Rob]

You'd be suprised how much you can do with a swiss army knife when you have to.

Wasn't anyone else here a boyscout?

Seriously, most 'survival' uses for a knife don't require chopping down trees or killing bears. Though cutting brush/branches for a shelter certainly might apply.

The best thing about a K-bar type knife is the hammer butt that can be used for driving stakes, most of the recommended knives on this thread can't do that.

Much better to use the butt of a $40 knife than the butt of a $500 pistol as a hammer. (or you could use a nice flat rock)

A Swiss army knife and a K-Bar. AF survival knife is not a bad combination.

I'm a big fan of Cold steel knives and the bushman makes a good "improvised machete" can also be made into a spear and doesn't weigh much, still you can't use it as a hammer.

[Zip06]

It seems I always learn the hard way on matters such as this one. Thought I needed one knife that could do it all; you know a digger, chopper, slicer and pounder. No such knife. Thought I needed a 7 inch blade...don't, 5 inches is enough. But one thing I was right on was the over engineering to handle the unexpected emergency like the woman here in the Pacific NW who, recently, fell off a trail and was stuck on a ledge. If she had a decent knife she could have used it to pull herself out but then she did not have a knife. Thin blade might break when 180 pounds are hanging onto it.

Dr. Rob you are right. K-Bars good. Camillus produced AF contract survival knives good also. My Leatherman Wave is also good. Heavy duty Becker BK-2 also good. Rambo knife bad.

[CWL]

What is a good US source for the finnish billhook? Need one for car & camp bag.

[hso]

http://www.kellamknives.com/cart/shop.cgi/SID=PUT_SID_HERE/page=index1.htmlv

Bought my first, second, and third ones from Kellam at the Blade Show. It seems a forrestry buddy had to have my first one to take to New Hampshire to show off and it never came home while the second one went with a wildlife biologist buddy and never came home. Now I just give out addresses for Kellam and jealously guard mine.

[Kentucky Rifle]

Well, I purchased both SEAL submissions from Russell. A SEAL "Pup" and a black Buck sheath knife. The Buck *slightly edged out the SOG because I like a plain edge, it's a little thicker, and it came so sharp (out of the box), I could shave with it. If AG has any left, they are fine knives at a bargain price. Cordura sheath. I like that. Sweat has no effect on Cordura.

KR

[Ultraman]

I've been considering one from here.
http://www.survivalknife.com/