Cleaning Question: how many of you use a bronze brush?


June 15, 2006, 11:07 PM
Either on the breechface or around the forcing cone?


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June 15, 2006, 11:17 PM
Never needed to, that I recall. Hoppe's #9 on a large patch, or a drop or two around the rear of the barrel, and an old toothbrush. I've always used an old toothbrush first, but I wouldn't hesitate to use a bronze brush if needed, particularly around the rear of the barrel.

Keep an eye out for shed bristles.

June 16, 2006, 09:53 AM
I use one for the chambers of my .38/.357 revolvers after a long session of firing lead bullets. It does a good job. I also scrap it over the back of the forcing cone a couple times.

I don't use a bronze or copper brush in the bore. Cleaning patches and solvent do the job there.

June 16, 2006, 09:58 AM
Very rarely on my pistols but just about all the time when firing corrosive ammo in my milsurp rifles. Brushes really get in to the rifleing to remove crud from surplus ammo......chris3

June 16, 2006, 10:36 AM
I use 'em all the time on the bore and chamber of every firearm that I own, as well as on the breechface and forcing cone of my revos.

I have never had any degree of joy trying to clean the goombah around the forcing cone, for example, using just solvent or solvent plus a nylon brush. The only way to get them remotely close to clean is to use solvent plus a bronze brush (usually a big-bore chamber brush that's already at the end of its useful life) held in my hand. I clean the cylinder face the same way, and chuck up a bronze brush in a cordless drill to clean the carbon rings from the cylinder chambers.

June 16, 2006, 10:45 AM
I only use a bronze brush on my shotgun barrel. The rest of my gun barrels only get a patch and solvent.

Ol` Joe
June 16, 2006, 12:31 PM
I am a brush user in all my firearms.
I use nylon with copper solvents in my rifles and bronze when useing regular solvents on carbon or lead fouling. With proper use they are no more damageing to the bore then jacketed bullets and make cleaning much faster, especially in the corners of the land/grooves.

Carl N. Brown
June 16, 2006, 12:39 PM
how many of you use a bronze brush?
Either on the breechface or around the forcing cone?
Breech face and forcing cone: toothbrush and Hoppe's No. 9

When using a bore brush, be sure that the rod or the brush
is free to rotate with the rifling: dragging a fixed bore brush
across the lands diagonally does no good in cleaning and may
wear the edges of the lands.

June 16, 2006, 04:42 PM
1st pass on bore's, be they pistol or rifle, get's a combination carbon fouling, copper fouling solvent. Then a nylon brush because the copper solvent eats up bronze brushes. Next pass gets Breakfree CLP and a bronze brush. In both passes after the brush cotton swabs are used until they come out clean.

On the 1st pass after a good scrubbing and swabbing until the pach comes clean an inspection with a bore light shows no copper and a bright shiny bore.

Then the bronze brushing after a few minutes soaking in CLP always results in the cotton swabs coming out pure black like I'd not cleaned anything out the first time around. I've never understood that. BUT if I use a nylon brush with the CLP on the 2nd pass instead of the bronze one it only takes one or two patches 'till they come out clean. Using the bronze brush it takes 5 or 6 patches 'till they come out clean. I figure a bronze brush breaks more crud loose than a nylon one does.

So YES! I use bronze brushes. They work and work well - better than nylon and since bronze is much softer than steel I don't imagine they do any damage.

June 16, 2006, 06:50 PM
I clean with MPro-7. A bronze brush isn't used or needed anywhere but the bore.

June 16, 2006, 08:28 PM
Bronze brush will not hurt them. Stainless steel however will.

June 16, 2006, 08:42 PM
Nylon brush works fine for me, and that's when I really want to get it clean. Usually just wipe it w/ breakfree.

June 16, 2006, 08:46 PM
You patch and solvent guys must be using some super clean ammo I'm not aware of. I always seem to need a brush.

Standing Wolf
June 16, 2006, 09:06 PM
Brushes are a lot less expensive than guns.

June 16, 2006, 10:43 PM
Bronze brush will not hurt them. Stainless steel however will.

actually, irv stone of says otherwise in this video:

Bar-sto Precision Machined Barrels (

he basically says that barrels measure in the 40-50 range on the rockwell hardness scale and the steel used in steel bore brushes don't even register on the rockwell scale since they are so soft. so they are safe to use.

June 17, 2006, 01:01 AM
rbernie:I have never had any degree of joy trying to clean the goombah around the forcing cone; for example, using just solvent or solvent plus a nylon brush.


Teaching Mario some CQB with a revolver, eh? ;) :D

June 17, 2006, 12:33 PM
I clean my guns every time I shoot them.

I use a bronze brush which I squirted first with CLP through the barrel (usually about 6 times). Then I pass a bore snake through one time to insure I'm not leaving much CLP in there (I'm always concerned it'll seep into my primers since I carry one in the chamber).

I clean the rest of the gun with cleaning patches, q-tips and CLP.

All my guns still look like new. And I shoot a lot.


June 17, 2006, 09:05 PM
I use 'em. They work great on the cylinder faces. I also use them on auto slides and breechfaces.

Mr Kablammo
June 17, 2006, 11:13 PM
I was cleaning semi-autos with a nylon brush & H' 9 but no matter how many passes there was always residue left. Finally I switched to brass and it worked 'like magic'. Unfortunately, there seem to be scratches in one barrel and this is disturbing as the modern steel should be much harder than softer brass.

June 17, 2006, 11:16 PM
I was a barrel distributor for Green Mountain barrels.

Bronze brushes do not hurt.

Trust me stainless brushes will mark steel

Being an 07 manufacturer, I have never found bronze to bother a barrel. The rod will hurt the barrel if not of the proper size and of hard steel so crap does not imbed into it.

June 17, 2006, 11:23 PM
I'm a target shooter and use a brass brush and dewey brass rod (NOT a coated rod) to clean my anschutz. It works real well. Patches will not get lead out of the barrel and brushes are safer than lead solvent if using non-coated ammo.

June 18, 2006, 12:50 AM
and then wonder why their patches always come out blue afterwards. :D

June 18, 2006, 02:43 PM
I am still wondering how anyone tested the hardness of the wires in a stainless brush.
The normal indent test is not goiung to work on such a small section, and testig the material before forming will not take into account any hardening that occurs during drawing into wire.
While stainless does not typically harden as nicely as other steels, it still does become harder with work.

June 18, 2006, 03:37 PM
I use a bronze brush every where unless I am using copper solvent. So far I have never had a problem.

June 18, 2006, 03:51 PM
brickeyee, there are several other [destructive] tests you can use.

June 18, 2006, 04:03 PM
I have always used the bronze brush followed by patches & H9 solvent. Been doing it that way for decades, and always seems to work fine. One little trick i learned was this:
After you're sure the barrel is about as clean as can be, take an old brush and wrap a clean dry patch around it. Run same thru the barrel. You will be amazed at the amount of additional crap that can be gotten out of what appears to be a spotlessly clean barrel this way.

Still 2 Many Choices!?
June 18, 2006, 05:56 PM
Bronze bore brushes only get used on rifles with chrome lined bore, and chamber...Pistols, NEVER!

evan price
June 18, 2006, 11:03 PM
I use a bronze toothbrush when I clean around the forcing cone, the ends of the cylinder, and they work great for cleaning the back of the frame where the firing pin comes out. All of my wheelguns are so far stainless and I have never had a problem with bronze toothbrushes. For barrels I use one of those stainless steel brushes that has no bristles...I don't know what they call them but they are coiled not cut. Takes the lead right out. Has so far not hurt the barrel at all. I use bronze bore brushes on my semis and occaisional bronze toothbrush on rear of chamber, feed ramp area, etc. where the crud collects. I always wet a brush with some #9 or else some teflon oil (like Triflow) before using it.
Oh yeah, what somebody else said about watching out for loose bristle pieces. They can get loose and get places you don't want them to be.

However the best way I have found to clear lead fouling is to make sure that when I am firing lead ammo like reloads, the last magazine or cylinder I fire is factory jacketed ammo. The jacketed ammo blows the lead out of the barrel, A+ job.

June 18, 2006, 11:34 PM
Evan I believe they call those cyclone or tornado brushes. I only use those on my smooth bore barrels but they work well. For you guys that like tooth brushes you should try those cheap battery operated tooth brushes they work pretty good to.

June 19, 2006, 10:04 AM
Cyclone is what I've always called them and I only use them on my shotgun or a 20ga one in my Saiga Gas Tube.

I use a bronze tooth brush on the forcing cone of all my revolvers and consequently have never experienced the build up of crud that I've seen on others. Bronze brush on forcing cone works great.

June 19, 2006, 10:43 AM
I have used a bronze "toothbrush" on the breechface as a field expediency to get the extractor notch cleaned out.

I routinely use a bronze brush in the bores of my guns (except .22 rimfire) and none of them show any sign of wear.

June 19, 2006, 10:48 AM
A bronze brush with nitro solvent (Hoppes or Outers) is the only way I've found to take the powder stains of the stainless breach face on my autoloader. I gave up on Q-tips and go straight to the brush on the areas known to be difficult.

I mostly shoot Winchester white box ($0.12/round in 9mm ;) ). It's cheap to shoot, but man is it dirty :( .

June 19, 2006, 12:39 PM

Known as "The Gunsmith's Brush," the Tornado brush has a special spiral-wound design that's highly effective for cleaning bores. The stainless steel loops eliminate any bristle ends that could leave scratches, yet removes fouling without damaging bore.

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