[WeedWhacker]

While I suppose my question could be applied to any screws on any revolver, the "main screw (http://www.naaminis.com/naaexvie.html)" on my NAA mini revolver keeps backing out. If not remedied quickly, this will soon allow the hand spring to slip off the hand, rendering the firearm somewhat less useful.

I don't want to gum up the works inside, and as I'm not a gunsmith, I'm never too eager to disassemble a revolver. However, aside from a little loc-tite (which, sadly, will very likely get on other parts I don't want loc-tite on), what other options might allow for a day of shooting (~500 rounds) at the range without worrying about the main screw?

[brickeyee]

Loctite should not get on anything else if you use it correctly.
It goes on the screw, and for small gun screws a single dot applied with a toothpick about the middle of the threads is all it takes.
You do not need to fill all the threads, have the stuff dripping off, etc.
Just a little bit.

[hoghunting]

The last I heard, the main screw has a left-hand thread. If you are tightening it like a normal screw, you are actually loosening it. That might be the problem. Using a gunsmithing screwdriver, turn the screw to the left as though you were removing a normal screw. This will tighten a left-hand threaded screw.

[1 old 0311]

If you use Locktite use the BLUE. The blue can be removed, the red can't.

Kevin

[mrmeval]

Loctite will not solidify in air. Let it cure per directions then clean the rest off.

[WeedWhacker]

The last I heard, the main screw has a left-hand thread. If you are tightening it like a normal screw, you are actually loosening it. That might be the problem.
I wish I'd known that about the main screw two weeks ago - I figured it out, alright, but not before I basically had everything in pieces and scratched the heck out of the side panel due to a slipping screwdriver ("why won't it GO IN?! ARG!").

I guess I'll grab some blue loc-tite and try to keep it completely confined within the threads. There won't be no wipin' down, not with something this tiny... I was hoping there might be something besides that, or deforming the screw. Tiny parts and I (as well as small quantities of anything) don't get along very well.

[Geno]

My NAA .22 LR / .22 Mag is tight as a vault. Sounds like something to keep an eye on. In all fairness, I also seldom fire mine. Thanks for the heads-up.

Doc2005

[mrmeval]

If the threads are that fine dip a needle in the loctite and use it as an applicator. You want enough to fill the gap between the screw threads and the hole threads but no more.

[hoghunting]

WeedW,
The problem using Loctite is getting the screw into the hole without touching the hammer. The screw has to pass through the hammer, and if you get Loctite on the hammer, it will adhere to the screw. I would not use Loctite for that reason. Just take a screw driver with you and tighten the screw if it becomes loose.

[Iron bottom]

I use teflon tape on screws. Put on a couple of wraps on the threads and see how much resistance there is while installing the screw. You may have to use a few more wraps to get it right. The screws will always back out with the same amount of resistance they have going in. They will not seize and will not loosen. Wrap the threads in the opposite direction they will turn in. This may not work since someone mentioned the threads must go through the hammer and the lack of clearence may tear the tape off. I'll try anything other than loctite on anything I ever think I might want to disassemble.

[WeedWhacker]

To be fair, this DID happen only after I dumped about 1,000 various .22LR and .22WMR rounds through it. I took off the side panel to fix a spring (bad move) and cleaned and lubed everything while I had it apart. Now I can dry-fire ten times and see the screw move 1/4 turn. >.<

I'll try the tape first - as said earlier, I am not eager to start sticking loc-tite inside this thing.

On a side note, maybe... I can use a toothpick and smear a tiny amount of loc-tite on the threads on the far side of the frame. That way the screw won't have a chance to smear it all over the hammer and internals... until I take it back out, that is.

[JMusic]

I have owned several NAA's. Talking with the shop superintendent he advised the red loctite along with using the primer "if" the gun is going to be used alot. People become afraid of the stronger loctites but if you use a heat gun you can loosen screws without a problem. The hand spring is a bitch to replace don't go there if you don't have to.
Jim

[mrmeval]

Call NAA and ask them the torque value for those screws and maybe some advise. If the torque value is lower than 43 I'd start asking them for more help.

Loctite brand is as follows for the commercial preperations. The industrial number is 242. The torque to break that is 110 and to continue is 43. Heat will lower these numbers substantially.
Use the required primer on stainless or it won't set right in some cases.

Their part number 01-24200
industrial part number is 242
UPC: 079340242005

Yea I did this for military applications. :neener:

If Henckles website sucked it would be useful for something, idiots.
:cuss:

[WeedWhacker]

Call NAA and ask them
Oh, geez. Well, in my defense, I *did* RTFM. Yep, the best bet is to call NAA first, then go from there.

Yes, JMusic, replacing the hand spring WAS a rather interesting exercise in frustration. I did eventually manage it - only took me two hours, woohoo! Am I a gunsmith yet? :P

[mrmeval]

I'd say you qualify as besting a high number of gunsmiths. :evil:

[JMusic]

Don't know about your smithing abilities but you have patience from hell which is a plus. Locktite has a new red primer that is in a stick 268 ( Yes I ran an industrial maintenance department.)primers is key. The torque specs being passed out are in Inch pounds make sure you are using the right wrench. I have used the method described above on the two my wife and I have. A Blackwidow with both cylinders and a mini in 22 mag with both cylinders for the wife for about three three years. I shot about 1500 magnum rounds and 500 LR rounds through mine with no problems. I was trying to find the shop foreman I talked to but I have misplaced it. I think his name was Andy or Andrew but its been awhile. Good luck. I have loosened these screws after locktite application by using heat. Just wanted you to know I would not recomend something that wasn't tried. Thanks
Jim

[JMusic]

After rereading this thread if you are getting a quarter turn on every shot you have something else wrong. Locktite will prevent the turning but something will wear out. I'd send the gun back if I were you. Mrmeaval what do you think? Something is binding to cause that kind of movement. I have returned guns to NAA that were entirely out of spec. I had a cylinder pin in a Blackwidow that would fire loose after about 4 rounds. Returned to the factory it was "repaired and sent back" Same thing. I started taking some measurements and found the cut under the barrel lug was WAY out of spec. After calling NAA and talking to a shop foreman I sent it to his attention along with my observations. It was replaced with a new revolver.
Jim

[WeedWhacker]

Nah, it's somewhat closer to 1/4-turn every ten or so dry-firings. This wasn't something which happened initially, either - had 1,000+ rounds without a problem. Eventually, that main screw worked loose (or the hand spring just broke, not really sure which), and I cleaned and lubed every part when I accidentally backed out the main screw all the way - stupid wrong-threaded screw, anyhow.

The point is *now* it likes to work itself loose, after I've dickered with it. I'll be calling NAA on Thursday to see what they have to say about it. The CCW laws here are stupid, being specific to not only caliber, but specific firearm, so I'd like to keep the one I've got, barring major problems. After all, it worked just fine for the first 1,000.

As for the binding, well, I did rub almost all the lube off the parts as I was putting the revolver back together the last time (YOU try putting a lubed hand spring back in! ;D I could probably squirt a shot of CLP down in there and work the hammer a bit to see - the hammer is the only moving part which the main screw touches... I figure that the main screw's threads have a good bit of lube on them while the shaft doesn't, which would sort of excerbate the problem.

[mcole]

you might try a little clear nail polish. holds and still easy to remove the screw if needed. the rear sight screws on my buckmark kept loosening up. a little "swipe" on each screw and not more pproblems. mcole

[WeedWhacker]

The official word from NAA is to tighten the screw as much as physically possible. "Put it in a vice" and tighten it.

I'll give that a shot first (I'm not Mr. T), then see what happens. The nail polish seems like a good, safe solution to try next, if this doesn't work. :)