Hex nuts on scope mounts?


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MarkDido
July 9, 2006, 08:15 PM
Maybe I'm buying more "inexpensive" scopes (mag and red dot) but what is the rationale for using hex head nuts? If I have to tighten down 6 hex nuts to mount a scope, at least one of them will become "rounded" to the point of making it impossible to get a good purchase on it to sufficiently tighten it down. Is there a "fix" for this, like stainless steel replacements?

Thanks!

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Clipper
July 9, 2006, 11:33 PM
Do you mean socket head cap screws? Hex head are six sided and use a wrench. Socket head cap screws use an allen key. SHCSs are generally hardened and will take much more torque before failing than most hex head bolts. My new Leupold mounts use Torx head screws, which are pretty much the equivalent of standard SHCSs.

gezzer
July 9, 2006, 11:49 PM
Because most Bubahas screw up the slots in real screws using the hardware screw drivers.

Koobuh
July 10, 2006, 04:58 AM
I'm pretty sure he's talking about the female type screws that require an Allen-wrench (or 'hex-key' or 'angle wrench') to turn them.
You should be able to find replacement ones at a well-stocked and competent hardware store. Good luck at a big-box store. Just bring the particular screw with you when you go and they should be able to figure it out.
Also; I have found that if you tilt the key a bit while it's in the head of the screw you can get a bit better of purchase on it.
Getting a high-quality set of metric and SAE hex keys wouldn't hurt either; they'll last longer and are less likely to round-out your screws, just as a correctly sized and properly shaped screwdriver won't round out heads as easily as a cheapo one.

entropy
July 10, 2006, 08:54 AM
The better quality mounts use Torx head screws.

cowboy77845
July 10, 2006, 11:04 AM
I prefer them to slotted screws. I never have the correct size screwdriver for them. Have replaced all my slotted screws. Do not most rings use a standard screw? I think you can get replacement assortments from Brownells.
My gunsmith seems to always have a bunch in a platic container.

mrmeval
July 10, 2006, 11:07 AM
Allen or torx are superior to stupid slots or phillips.

Mal H
July 10, 2006, 11:31 AM
"Do not most rings use a standard screw?"

Yes, in general, a set of 6-40, 6-48 and 8-40 will fit 95% of US made scope rings (the other 5% have had their screw holes buggered up beyond all hope). I'm not sure what the metric fine-thread equivalent would be, but since most rings bought here are US made anyway, the screw sizes listed will usually work no matter what brand the scope is.

hoghunting
July 10, 2006, 04:13 PM
If you are tightening the screws so tight that you're stripping the Allen head screw, you are overtightening those screws. Those are small screws, just lighten up on the Allen wrench.

Zak Smith
July 10, 2006, 07:32 PM
+1 hoghunting

Use the right size allen bit or wrench to not strip the bolts.

Ring cap screws don't need very much torque, less than 30 in*lbs usually.

-z

Clark
July 10, 2006, 09:04 PM
I like Torx when I can get them.

I bought an assortment from Brownell's

I made some 6-48 nuts with a tap.

I grind the screws to length while the nuts are on the screw.
It helps hold them and straightens out the threads at the end as the nut is taken off.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/catsearch.aspx?k=torx

The 12 pack is about $0.50 per screw, so don't drop them:)

RogersPrecision
July 10, 2006, 10:06 PM
There are always going to be a few that truly require a 4 page instruction sheet with a hammer.
:confused:

brickeyee
July 15, 2006, 12:25 PM
"...tilt the key a bit while it's in the head of the screw you can get a bit better of purchase on it."

A correctly sized hex key should not have enough play to tilt at all in the socket.
Do not buy or use ‘no-name’ hex keys. Almost invariably they are not sized correctly or hardened correctly.
Bondhus & Allen are two good makers that are usually available if you look.

When working at a friends house reconditioning a milling machine he handed me a 3/8 hex key for a cap screw. It now has a 90 degree rotation in the short arm from the bend to the tip. No ‘cheater’ just hand force. It cost less than $2 at the local hardware store and did not have a brand marking on it.
I had to drive home to get a Bondhus set to finish the job.

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