Best gun oil


July 20, 2006, 07:02 AM
What is the best lubricating gun oil. I have never liked break-free because it wont stay put. I have been using Wilson Ultima-lube for a few years now but I'm running out and they don't sell it in my area. What is a good medium viscosity oil that will STAY WHERE YOU PUT IT..



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July 20, 2006, 07:25 AM
I use Tetra Gun products - especially the grease and lube oil. There are some oils which are claimed to "stay put" etc, but I have yet to actually use one. I suggest doing a forum keyword search like "best gun oil", best gun lube" etc. You'll get enough reading to keep you busy for a week :)


July 20, 2006, 07:25 AM
I kid you not, get some Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil. It's made for lubricating parts with much tighter fit and much higher heat & stress than guns - vehicle engines. I recently switched to it and I'm very pleased. If you cant find a motor oil thats heavy enough to stick like you want try a good synthetic gear oil like what would be used in your vehicle's differential(s). Wanting something that stays on slide rails better I'll be trying Lucas Oil Stabilizer soon, and will post the results if anyone is interested. Anyway, even the Lucas Products stuff is cheap compared to "gun" oil and you get enought to last forever for just a few bucks.

July 20, 2006, 07:29 AM
I've also been using Mobil 1 and have been pleased with the results. And on rifles where I need grease I use synthetic grease intended for use in CV joints. I figure if it can take care of greasing CV joints it can take care of anything.

1 old 0311
July 20, 2006, 07:38 AM
Mobil 1. It will keep a $90,000 Ferrari engine going, also works well on my 10/22:evil:

July 20, 2006, 04:36 PM
Mil Comm

July 20, 2006, 04:48 PM
...bacon grease.:what: Yes bacon grease.:confused: It's slick as a whistle and smells good to boot. Speaking of boots, spread a bit on the seams and your boots are waterproofed.:scrutiny: Some folks use oil, but oil runs.:banghead: Bacon grease stays where you put it, and if by chance your bullet hits a game animal...well, that meat is already half seasoned, (just add pepper), and you're ready to cook.:eek: Speaking of cooking, if your hunting trip lasts over night, just scrape off a bit of grease from the gun for the skillet in the morning and fry those eggs...and bacon...after all you'll need some more gun lube.:D

July 20, 2006, 04:56 PM
Isn't bacon grease also going to contain a lot of salt? I'd watch out for that causing corrosion.

July 20, 2006, 05:18 PM
For lube, I'm sold on Miltec.

July 20, 2006, 05:22 PM
Mobil 1. It will keep a $90,000 Ferrari engine going, also works well on my 10/22
Mobil 1 would probably work fine in a Ferrari, but they recommend Shell Helix Ultra;) .

If I were going to use a motor oil, I'd take a hard look at Red Line. It can be had in weights of up to 20w60 and is $7/qt. + S&H from It's ester based, so the molecules will adhere to metal better than most other synthetics.

I've heard great things about specialty formulations' ( products, but have no firsthand experience.

Now that I think of it, I'll probably try one of the above when I use up the bottle of BreakFree that I have.

The Cavalry
July 20, 2006, 05:27 PM
Pizza grease!

(anyone else watch that old Stallone movie "Cobra"?)

July 20, 2006, 08:08 PM
I use moly based automotive grease.

July 20, 2006, 08:31 PM
i like several, purple oil, found at some car lube places, mobil 1, i use moly grease, very spareingly, i also like dura lube , a synthetic grease, haven't tried the lucas oil yet, but did use their power steering stuff, and it works better than they say for leakage. also i would imagine a gear oil, sythetic , in the 90/140 class would also be good.

July 20, 2006, 09:11 PM
Mobil 1. Cant be beat. One quart lasts a LONG time.

July 20, 2006, 09:24 PM
CLP or FP-10

July 20, 2006, 09:39 PM
I haven't been using it very long but it seems to work very well. Somebody at work told me about it. He has been using it on all of his guns for over 7 years and hasn't had any problems. It's called LPS2. It is an Industrial strength lubricant and you can buy it at Grainger. You might be able to buy it at Lowes or Home Depot also. Even though it is industrial strength it is light weight.

July 20, 2006, 09:43 PM
I'm partial to Bore Butter, myself. Shows up real nice on the metal, lubes nice, doesn't drip, and I have it for my blackpowder shooting, so I don't have to buy anything else.

My choke tubes get greased with high temp automotive grease ($2 a pound, instead of $6 an ounce:D )

July 20, 2006, 09:57 PM
once my supply of LSA dries up, i'll switch to that hot new CLP technology :)

i use different oil on different guns though.

July 20, 2006, 11:07 PM
It's Mobile1 for me! I use 5W/30 to lube my gun's, door hinges & about anything else I can think of. Started using it on my slot cars & fishing reel's & it just grew from that. I do like to lube the slide's on my semi-automatics with 75/90 Mobile1 gear lube. It stay's put & dosen't make a mess.:)

Ghost Walker
July 20, 2006, 11:26 PM
:) To each his own. I've found Ballistol to be excellent for cleaning D-6 polymer frame guns. (Glock, H&K, XD, etc.)

Smells great, cuts the crud, and is completely non-toxic. Won't hurt your leather, eithers! ;)

July 20, 2006, 11:38 PM
This was asked recently and the outcome was interesting. In summary, the government did a test for alternative gun cleaners and lubricants. The results were:
The best alternative cleaner for small arms is Automatic Transmission Fluid. The best lubricant is 20W synthetic motor oil.

July 20, 2006, 11:42 PM
I use Eezox because rust is more of a concern for me. Both of my hard chrome P7s have rusted in the Houston humidity with FP-10.

frank c
July 20, 2006, 11:45 PM
G-96 for me.I see alot of gunsmiths useing it.coobie:)

July 21, 2006, 01:24 AM
I make my own. I use equal parts synthetic motor oil, synthetic automatic transmission fluid and add a little mineral spirits to thin to taste. It cleans and lubes.

July 21, 2006, 01:35 AM
I brought home a gallon jug of break free from my arms room in Germany. (The unit was shutting down, they were going to throw it away.) I've never had reason to dislike it. Of course, I still have half a gallon, and when your primary tool available is a hammer, all your problems start to look like nails.

I had seen in other threads where people were using motor oil, and a couple of things come to mind, help me out here. I asked but didn't get a response, (Or it was so far back in the post list I don't want to find it.) in the G.I. manual I was using to maintain my M1A, it said motor oil could be used as a substitute for G.I. rifle lube oil (this was a circa 1958 manual) in emergencies only, and to strip it off and use the recommended lube asap. Acknowledging, just about anyone with practical mechanical knowledge can probably outthink the army on this one, why would they recommend against it, and why do I want to use motor oil in something that gets FAR less use and lower temperatures than my engines? (I have plenty of Mobil 1 synthetic 5w30, it's what I use in both my cars.)

July 21, 2006, 01:38 AM
I'd get the German Balistol. It's non-toxic smells great can be used indoors and works on metal/plastic/wood/etc.

MPS is a good CLP(cleaner/lube/protectant) too. It lasts long and cleans nearly all dirt/crud/lead. sells a great cleaner/oil also. I never used it but I heard it works well with most firearms.

Michaels of OR sells a CLP that is based on a USAF cleaning product for F-16 weapon systems. It's available online; [url] .

Rusty S :)

July 21, 2006, 01:49 AM
Two quarts ATF the red stuff, one quart of 10 weight mineral oil, and eight onces of Hoppes # 9. Good in any temp. and lasts a long time.

July 21, 2006, 02:02 AM
For sliding parts I like Hoppe's Gun & Reel Grease. For instance, in my bolt action rifles, after cleaning I moderately coat the entire bolt (sans bolt face, is that the right word?), reassemble and work the bolt a few times. I figure all the contact parts will pick up enough grease, and the rest stays on the bolt. The grease also makes an excellent finish protectant.

For pivoting parts, just a drop of Hoppe's Gun & Reel Oil.

I'm testing Dri-Slide on my HD AR-15. I'm told it cuts down on the powder that fouls the action, and one guy told me he does most of his action cleaning with compressed air. Justs blasts out everything until it looks clean, but does a serious cleaning every 2,000 rounds or so. Don't know if he was BSing me, but since there isn't anything in the "lube" that powder can stick to, he may have something.

Mark Whiteman
July 21, 2006, 03:44 AM
Found a quart can of synthetic jet engine oil at a surplus place for a buck. Still pours at -10F (freezer), doesn't seem to throw off. Great on AR bolt carriers and 1911 rails. Grease? Winter, Synthetic with moly, Amsoil I think. Summer its those little grease pots with lubriplate in em. Slick, but gets solid in the freezer.

July 21, 2006, 08:27 AM
Hello, miljdeckard. I found out that you don't want to use regular motor oil to lube gun's. It get's dirty & sticky. Synthetic oil dosen't.
Just my experience with the stuff.

February 24, 2007, 02:16 AM
Thank you for your post about using Mobile 1 oil on your firearms. I usually have used CLP since I was in the Marine Corps in the early 90s. Recently I ran out of CLP and decided to try the Mobile 1 as I knew how well it worked in my car during the cold Minnesota winters. After lubing my Keltec all of the metal parts feel completely different. They are smoother and slippery even when they feel dry. The Mobile 1 worked fine to clean the gun and the action even felt smoother after the application. I will be using it on ALL of my guns from now on. Heck the quart I bought is going to last for years anyhow!

February 24, 2007, 03:19 AM
I use Break Free CLP and Mobil 1 synthetic grease.

February 24, 2007, 07:07 AM
I use G96 for most of my bore cleaning alternating with Kroil to soak under the crud. This combo really gets the junk out of my milsurp barrels.

For general lubrication I have started using a new product that Lucas Oil has come out with...Lucas Gun Oil. It comes in a 2 oz. bottle and is a dark red color. I seems to stick to the bolt and trigger surfaces making them function more smoothly.


February 24, 2007, 09:33 AM
From an old post, but worth repeating

"After the fluff and buff, I stumbled upon MILITEC-1 lube, (the oil), which I now swear by, so I dissasembled the piece again (along with everything else I owned) and treated it. You clean everything real well (like alcohol or degreaser), warm up the metal parts with a blow dryer, wipe them down good with Militec-1, let it set for a while, and wipe it down dry. That stuff works wonders. Even after the dry wipe, the surface is super slick and the piece functions so smooth, you won't believe it, and the dry surface doesn't attract dust and pocket lint. I had treated my carry knife (a CRKT M-16 12) with it as described, and then lost it for 10-12 months. When I found it, it was in the bottom of a cleaning kit (BIG TACKLE BOX) in which some blueing had spilled, (and that crap is corrosive). A bunch of the stuff in there was rusty, but not the knife, it was amazing."

February 24, 2007, 09:59 AM
I sure wouldn't do this if I was carrying the gun in the field - I take the' "Don't feed the bears" sign personally!:neener:

February 24, 2007, 01:49 PM
Just a thought - be careful using stuff like motor oil on anything with fine wood attached...

February 24, 2007, 02:12 PM
ATF for rotating parts, light grease such as Tetra for sliding.

Check this out:


February 24, 2007, 02:35 PM
WD-40 :D

(I'm 1/2 kidding--I like the Mobil 1 idea--hadn't thought of it.) I use GI grease on the rifles, really little oil altogether on the pistols.

There was a product called 'one-lube' that I used to like.

Professor K
February 24, 2007, 02:44 PM
Back when I was cleaning my Gew 88 up, I used liquid wrench. It's got some nice cleaning solvents in it, I used to think my barrel was like shot out, then I ran a bunch of patches of Liquid Wrench through it, and it's like a mirror now.

The other miracle oil for my Gew 88 was mineral oil. Very thick. My Gew 88 bolt always used to lock up very badly, to the point that you needed a hammer to open it again. The thin silicone oil didnt do too much good, so one day I tried mineral oil, and the bolt never stuck like that again.

Seriously, mineral oil is awesome. No smell either.

February 24, 2007, 03:21 PM
I've been using Militec for a few years now...good stuff!

February 24, 2007, 04:44 PM

It's down near the bottom of the page.

February 24, 2007, 05:11 PM
I used to use some stuff called Tri-flow or Tri-flon, it was teflon and oil. It was slick as owl snot and great in extreme cold or high head. I haven't seen it in years, and a 'google' on it produced nothing.

February 24, 2007, 05:20 PM
Been using Militec-1 for years on Microtech autos and folders. I use it on new gun parts too, especially things like anodized aluminum or parkerization. It soaks right into the surface and gives reasonable protection but I never tried my own informal torture tests to see how well they hold up. I also do use dabs of Mobil 1 as well, it sticks to everything.

Everytime I get Mobil 1 or Militec-1 on my fingers, its a real pain in the butt to wash off. You can still smell the stuff in your pores after repeated scrubbings.

February 24, 2007, 05:29 PM
I'm into month 3 of my test of Ed's Red (with lanolin) and it's working pretty good.

I still like CLP as a all/general purpose lube/rust preventative.

February 24, 2007, 08:12 PM
I always used Militec-1 oil and/or grease, but all this talk about Mobil 1 is getting me interested in trying it out. Thanks.

February 24, 2007, 08:23 PM
I use Break-Freel CLP for both cleaning and lubricating.

I've been trying Rem-Oil lately on my Walther P22 and it works well too.

Other than that I've used Hoppes #9 oil which worked fine, and Tetra brand stuff too.

I didn't like the Tetra stuff as much but I still use the little bit I have left.

Hoppes also makes an "Elite" oil which I'm curious about.

And Break-Free makes a special lubricant I want to try too which is primarily meant for full-autos, but I'm curious to give it a try.

February 24, 2007, 08:50 PM
Being interested in things technical, I went out and did my own library research at a technical library. Firearms are not that stressing of a lubricant application. You can use a lot of ordinary oils with good success in a firearm.

However, engine oils are great stuff. If you do your research, you will find automotive engines have to operate in far more difficult load, temperature conditions than most any firearm you will ever own. Lubricant manufactures have spent $$Millions of research dollars on automotive oils. Just because the stuff is cheap don't mean it ain't great. It is really really good stuff.

No one is spending money on gun oil research. All that stuff is just repackaged industrial lubricants. (my guess)

If you want the best automotive oil, use syntheic diesel oil. (CD) Diesel oil has much more additives than gasoline engines. But because Mobil one is good enough, that is what I use.

February 24, 2007, 08:59 PM

I used to use some stuff called Tri-flow or Tri-flon, it was teflon and oil. It was slick as owl snot and great in extreme cold or high head. I haven't seen it in years, and a 'google' on it produced nothing.

Funny, I just googled "tri-flo" and got 54,000 hits.


February 24, 2007, 09:15 PM
50/50 Gunslick and Mobile 1

February 24, 2007, 09:24 PM
I usually use the LP version of CLP. I've also used the generic gun oils included in cleaning kits, and have used Rem oil as well. All seem to work, but something cheaper may work just as well. Might have to try that Mobil 1 sometime if I ever run out of gun oil...

February 24, 2007, 09:40 PM
thebaldguy - I noticed it says on the LP product from Break-Free, that it's for full-auto guns mainly and stainless steel guns.

Just wondering what you use it on?

Ken Rainey
February 24, 2007, 09:53 PM
I read a Gun Test article a long time ago about all the lubes that could be used and motor oil was a good choice. I'd been using synthetic 10w30 for a long time and using just a thin film of STP on my pistols rails every once in a while in warmer weather and then I read an article somewhere on the internet that recommended ATF and STP - they said start with a 50/50 mix and thin for the application...I had a small break free bottle handy and put the ATF in with a little STP, shook it up and have been using it ever since - works great.

February 24, 2007, 10:24 PM
well I know this may not help anyone out there, but when I was working maintenance at a local bakery I ran across this stuff called "LUB-CON". it's a high tech synthetic oven chain lube. you see the ovens there are 25' feet wide and 120' feet long, they use a 180 gauge chain and the ovens reach a temp of 500 degrees. it's labeled as a dry film lube and it works wonderfully on guns. i know some of you are thinking moly or graphite but this stuff is clear as water with a consistancy of light mineral oil. it makes my bolt action guns work like they have ball bearings. after i clean a rifle i slather this stuff on pretty liberally and let it dry for a couple days(i'll try a little heat next time) and theres no residue or anything but you can tell it's there. with no mess and no dust attraction at all it's the best lubricant i've ever used. the bakery stopped using it because of cost and i don't know where to find it, heck i don't even know what's in it but it sure does work. i wish i had more:(

February 24, 2007, 11:22 PM
I've used Tetra products for several years now. The grease and oil stay where you put them.


February 24, 2007, 11:25 PM
im down with duralube sythetic grease/paste in a can. for a permanent base, you cannot beat molyfusion, from shooters solutions.

February 24, 2007, 11:41 PM
I've been using SPEC357. I got it from Glock workd for my golck and have used it on everything. Works great

February 25, 2007, 12:40 AM
Tri-flo is used almost religiously by owners of Mooney aircraft for a federally mandated landing gear and control system lube. You can find it at

February 25, 2007, 01:02 AM

I had to take a look at the label. It says "For rapid-fire automatic and stainless steel firearms". I thought it was odd that they had that specific use stated on the label.

I got this LP variety on clearance years ago at Sportmart. I already had a bunch of solvents from cleaning kits aquired over the years, and I wanted to give this LP stuff a shot. It was cheaper than the CLP version.

Per the label, I should point out that I have never tried this stuff with full-auto firearms. But I have used it on semi-autos, pumps, bolt action and single shot firearms, shotguns, rifles and pistols, blued and stainless. Seems like it works ok. A guy next to me at the range asked me for some oil one day. Squirted some in a jamming Remington semi-auto and that ended the problem.

I think lubricants are one thing, but protectants against rust/corrosion is another problem. I would like a product that does both well. At a reasonable price of course. I remember seeing a corrosion protectant test online somewhere. Here's one test:

Breakfree LP site:

February 25, 2007, 02:10 AM
I also use tetra gun products

Detachment Charlie
February 25, 2007, 12:18 PM
Clean with spray Carb/Brake cleaner,then CLP Break-Free and a few small dabs of FP-10 on sliding parts. Works even in sweaty Florida.
That said, ATF & good synthetic motor oil always get great reviews.;)

Long Knife
February 25, 2007, 01:21 PM
I've been using Break Free CLP since 68 and see no reason to stop now. I do use the Castrol Syntex in my POV and may try a little of that next time, just for kicks.

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