[Tropical Z]

And where are they? I know next to nothing about Enfields,but have always wanted a "US property" marked gun of some sort.Big 5 currently has the "US property" Enfields of WWII on sale for $159.99. I looked at the 2 that the local store had yesterday and they were basically the same except that one had a "hole" in the bolt handle and one didn't.:confused: These have seen combat I'm sure and I like them for it.I chose the better of the two even though there was a small kind of a upside down U shaped cracked (about an inch long) area on the stock where your support hand rests.The only serial number I easily saw was on the receiver where they all are I guess.I saw several 5's here and there and I believe I saw some D's.I don't have the gun yet but I guess I better learn about these quick.

[Chipperman]

The "Fives" are actually "S" for Savage. That's who made them.

[Mk VII]

The number on the bolt handle should match the receiver (and for SMLEs, the nosecap, rear sight, forend and [v early ones] cocking piece).
I would need a good deal of reason to buy any Enfield with a mismatched bolt, but maybe we're just spoilt for choice here.

[Tropical Z]

I need to check that bolt number....I didnt even see it.:confused:

[DougW]

The bolt number would be on the handle. Matching is the most preferred, but since the #4 and #5 use the removable and changable bolt head for headspacing, the miss matching is really not a major issue. I have factory FTR'ed #4 rifles with bolts that are much newer than the rifle itself (by that I mean the s/n on the bolt is a typical replacement number). With the #1, the matching is more desirable, since each rifle's bolt was ground to make the proper head space. My 1917 BSA is miss matched, but headspaces and shoots fine.

Keep in mind that the supply of Enfields is starting to dry up somewhat, and the selection will be somewhat less than years past.

[rbernie]

What numbers should match on an Enfield? The numbers on the price tag and the numbers in my wallet. :D